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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I thought I’d show you guys what I’ve been working on.


So this part will eventually make the rear caliper bracket stay connected to the swingarm during rear wheel removals. I did get it to work one time and then it busted when i put the axle in through the other side. It shouldn’t do that when its made out of aluminum instead of wood. Ill maybe make a few of them if anyone would be interested in having one. It should fit 2013 and newer.


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I thought I’d show you guys what I’ve been working on.


So this part will eventually make the rear caliper bracket stay connected to the swingarm during rear wheel removals. I did get it to work one time and then it busted when i put the axle in through the other side. It shouldn’t do that when its made out of aluminum instead of wood. Ill maybe make a few of them if anyone would be interested in having one. It should fit 2013 and newer.


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I may be interested in one, unless I get some Lightech chain adjusters
 

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I thought I’d show you guys what I’ve been working on.


So this part will eventually make the rear caliper bracket stay connected to the swingarm during rear wheel removals. I did get it to work one time and then it busted when i put the axle in through the other side. It shouldn’t do that when its made out of aluminum instead of wood. Ill maybe make a few of them if anyone would be interested in having one. It should fit 2013 and newer.


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Nice! 👍
 

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Nice! That allows for full range of chain adjustment? From that one shot Looks like a fairly easy piece of 2.5d machining so shouldn’t cost too much to mill.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Nice! That allows for full range of chain adjustment? From that one shot Looks like a fairly easy piece of 2.5d machining so shouldn’t cost too much to mill.
Full range of adjustment with no modifications to the caliper bracket.

Im kinda thinking ill end up machining both sides to make it less bulky or it will be a 2 piece design. I paid 20$ for a 2ft long section of 6061 and I could probably make about 7 or 8 of them out of that one piece. Machine time might end up being around 45 minutes, I have no idea.


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Full range of adjustment with no modifications to the caliper bracket.

Im kinda thinking ill end up machining both sides to make it less bulky or it will be a 2 piece design. I paid 20$ for a 2ft long section of 6061 and I could probably make about 7 or 8 of them out of that one piece. Machine time might end up being around 45 minutes, I have no idea.


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nice, I have a mini CNC mill, will do aluminum but have to go really slow so it’s not good for any production just personal hobby. Always good to see someone creating parts!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Updated design.


I figured it should be 2 piece so that any possible slight deviations between the caliper brackets or the swingarms could be adjusted for. Its also much easier to machine 2 parts instead of having it be one piece and having to flip it over.


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nice, I have a mini CNC mill, will do aluminum but have to go really slow so it’s not good for any production just personal hobby. Always good to see someone creating parts!
What mini mill do you have? I'd like to get a mini lathe and mill for my garage at some point in the future. I want to get this when the time comes, but for now I have other priorities so this isn't in the budget yet.

 

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Discussion Starter #10
I'll buy one from you if you make it for the 2012 gen, or if this works for the 2012
There is no speed sensor on the rear caliper mounting bracket on the 09-12. It may be possible to bolt it onto the caliper mounting bolt but it’s in a different location and would require a slightly different part. Not sure if I’ll make one or not.


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There is no speed sensor on the rear caliper mounting bracket on the 09-12. It may be possible to bolt it onto the caliper mounting bolt but it’s in a different location and would require a slightly different part. Not sure if I’ll make one or not.
Well I'll mention it to a few guys with the same bike as mine at the next track day. Maybe if we get some pre-orders for you that would influence things lol.
 

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What mini mill do you have? I'd like to get a mini lathe and mill for my garage at some point in the future. I want to get this when the time comes, but for now I have other priorities so this isn't in the budget yet.

I have a Taig mill, converted to CNC. I purchased it used, and eventually upgraded its controller and stepper motors, but it’s still a small machine, so limited on the working envelope and it’s not a machine that can take big cuts.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Some more progress. Finally made the axle part. It fits pretty good. I had a few issues with chatter in the machine so theres some tool marks around the outsides. Nothing that will really effect how it fits but I need to change some of the settings to get rid of that. I’m still waiting for some bushings to arrive that will go on the sensor mount. I need them to get the dimensions on the second part correct.





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Discussion Starter #14
Kinda finished product.



So there is a small bushing that sits inside of the bolt attached to the speed sensor. That allows some movement between the block and the caliper bracket. It works pretty good. I dont forsee myself making anymore of these until I can figure out how to eliminate the chatter issues in the machine. The only time it causes problems is when its plunging down into the part. I tried using a single flute bit which worked better until it snapped with about 2 passes left in the program. I was pissed. That was a 20$ bit.

Ive been trying to think of a better way to do this without having to make an entirely new axle block. I was trying to think of somehow i can use the original axle block and make a part made out of carbon fiber or some kind of plastic that would attach to the original axle block and the caliper. It’d be much easier to make and probably weigh less too. Im open to constructive or deconstructive criticism.


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Kinda finished product.



So there is a small bushing that sits inside of the bolt attached to the speed sensor. That allows some movement between the block and the caliper bracket. It works pretty good. I dont forsee myself making anymore of these until I can figure out how to eliminate the chatter issues in the machine. The only time it causes problems is when its plunging down into the part. I tried using a single flute bit which worked better until it snapped with about 2 passes left in the program. I was pissed. That was a 20$ bit.

Ive been trying to think of a better way to do this without having to make an entirely new axle block. I was trying to think of somehow i can use the original axle block and make a part made out of carbon fiber or some kind of plastic that would attach to the original axle block and the caliper. It’d be much easier to make and probably weigh less too. Im open to constructive or deconstructive criticism.


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Question...isn't the little extrusion on the inside of the swing arm that the caliber bracket slides on at a different angle than the axle block surface? If they're not parallel, the whole assembly wouldn't be able to slide back and forth which means you can't adjust your chain tension for different sprockets. Or are they actually parallel? Or can your top small piece rotate about the screws at the back, in relation to the large piece?

Regarding your last paragraph, couldn't you made something similarly shaped out of a couple of layers of CF (say about 0.030-0.050" thickness) and bond it to the back of the stock axle block? That way it sits between the swing arm and axle block, and then you just use a small spacer at the top to mount to the sensor hole.
 

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Is there a way you could make something similar that attaches to Lightech adjusters? They are bolted on and have existing threads for the lifters that could be used I think to attach a piece to.




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Discussion Starter #17
Question...isn't the little extrusion on the inside of the swing arm that the caliber bracket slides on at a different angle than the axle block surface? If they're not parallel, the whole assembly wouldn't be able to slide back and forth which means you can't adjust your chain tension for different sprockets. Or are they actually parallel? Or can your top small piece rotate about the screws at the back, in relation to the large piece?

Regarding your last paragraph, couldn't you made something similarly shaped out of a couple of layers of CF (say about 0.030-0.050" thickness) and bond it to the back of the stock axle block? That way it sits between the swing arm and axle block, and then you just use a small spacer at the top to mount to the sensor hole.
That little deal on the inside of the swingarm is parallel with the adjusters. This gives a full range of adjustment without having to dissasemble anything.

I don’t know if I would put anything carbon fiber between the axle block and swingarm. Tightening the nut might crush it and then you would have a loose rear wheel.


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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Is there a way you could make something similar that attaches to Lightech adjusters? They are bolted on and have existing threads for the lifters that could be used I think to attach a piece to.




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Thats a solid point on the swing-arm that never moves. It would have to be slotted on the end that attaches to the sensor so that the caliper bracket could move when you are adjusting the tension. The Fast Franks parts would be better with the light-tech setup. Im not saying I couldnt do but since you already have the light tech adjusters, it would make more sense to just get the Fast Franks parts.


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That little deal on the inside of the swingarm is parallel with the adjusters. This gives a full range of adjustment without having to dissasemble anything.

I don’t know if I would put anything carbon fiber between the axle block and swingarm. Tightening the nut might crush it and then you would have a loose rear wheel.


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It'll be fine if done right. Smooth surfaces and not a crazy amount of resin, while also using resin that's not too brittle, and it could take a high load/pressure with no issues.
 
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