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Discussion Starter #1
I have an '06 636. The other day while replacing tires, brakes and plugs I decided to pull the pair system and cap it. I also removed the secondary butterfly valves and cleaned/oiled my K&N air filter. Since then my mistress rides great… until the rpm's go high (like I'm half WFO when I'm not). Downshifting doesn't slow the bike nor raise the rpm. Same can be said if I shift up, no change happens. It's like the rpm is just stuck. When I pull the clutch it seems the rpm's get higher. If I force the throttle forward I can get the rpm's down.

It happens randomly and makes cornering difficult.

Could it be a kinked gas line, plug spacing, a connection I may of knocked loose or missed plugging back in?

Please help a girl out!

Thanks
 

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huh< it sounds like part of what you describe is a sticking throttle cable...is it frayed? is the throttle tube/grip assembly sticking on the bar end or the cable housing?

It ran fine before and now it doesn't? Obviously you did something wrong and it is not the spark plug gap
 
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Discussion Starter #3
Right and that's what I was thinking. I'm going to check the throttle cable when I get free. The grip isn't sticking if that's what you're asking.
 

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Sounds like a throttle cable issue to me :O

Also, welcome...you should post up in the new member section and put up some pics of the bike and whatnot. You know, become a positively contributing member and all :)
 

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I don't know about the newer bikes, but for older carbed bikes, there are several springs underneath the carbs that close the throttle. If your bike has them I'd check them out. I believe my sticky throttle is due to bad/gunky springs as well.

What your problem sounds like is a spark issue. Maybe timing. The bike should always increase or decrease rpms after shifting.
 

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I don't know about the newer bikes, but for older carbed bikes, there are several springs underneath the carbs that close the throttle. If your bike has them I'd check them out. I believe my sticky throttle is due to bad/gunky springs as well.

What your problem sounds like is a spark issue. Maybe timing. The bike should always increase or decrease rpms after shifting.
This is a prime example of why not to listen to your suggestions. You don't know what you are talking about yet keep flapping your gums as if you convinced yourself you do.

-You ask about "tranny" (that would be your own closet sexual fantasy it appears) when you mean transmission issues, yet you don't even eliminate other potential causes of your problem or even suggest what the problem is.
-You tear about your mustang to put in new head gaskets, but fail to do proper diagnostic work before or during the process? Who the hell takes the heads off assuming it is a head gasket and doesn't check first. And if you do go that far, why not look closely at the head and the block to see if they are cracked or the issue. Why not inspect the installed head gaskets and see if they were leaking~ there are tell tale signs and give aways~ then you pissy boo hoo about it, it is your fault you didn't diagnose it properly.
- You go on about riding it into the ditch becasue you were knee down going left and a car appeared, and no doubt if I scanned your numerous posts I could find major errors, ommissions and stupidty in dozens more

Stop dispensing "advice" about stuff you know nothing about it, it only makes you look stupid and god forbid someone followed it, well shame on them for believing some huckster on the internet peddling bullshit and talking out his ass.

I swear some people just want to hear themselves talk (type) and say so much stupid shit they actually believe it..Age of the internet I suppose the 15% ignorant fucks of the world now have a means to voice thier bullshit from the safety of thier parents basement.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
During an RPM surge we sprayed carb cleaner into each TB. Turns out there's a leak coming from #4. Prolly broke the seal when the air box wasn't taken out correctly. Someone yanked on it not seeing the clamps underneath.

Cleaned it off and the seal didn't appear to be bad. Bike rode like a dream around town for about an hour until the surges came back. Prolly gonna have to replace the seal and try again. I'll report back
 

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Is your grip getting stuck on the bar end?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
***UPDATE***

Things checked:
Grip wasn't sticking.
Cables and line are not pinched or kinked.
Valves are clean and clear.
TB Boots in good shape.
Vacuums good.
Air filter and box clean and clear.
Secondaries returned, issue still exists.

Took bike to a highly reputable mechanic and with the bike open and airbox off we were able to recreate (and see) the rpm surge issue. Turns out the fast idle cam lobe (I forget correct part name) was sticking. Never noticed nor experienced this rpm issue before pulling the secondaries and from what I know no one messed with TB assembly pass secondary plates being removed.

Anyway, a reputable mechanic tried removing the tab, but it made the symptoms worse. However, by shaving the cam lobe by mm's he was able to get the lobe to function without sticking. Secondaries remain off and after two semi-long rides Saturday and a one hour night-ride tonight, the issue appears solved.

I can tell you all, I notice an obvious difference I'm receiving from the mods. Bike runs cooler, sounds meatier, and the little extra oomph from the throttle response is satisfying. But I'm gonna play devil's advocate in saying I may just be rushing from the satisfaction of having my bike back. Without a post dyno I'll never really know.

Another lesson learned. Keep logs.

Overall, I'm satisfied but won't recommend the mod for it's nuisance it created for me. But I hear many ppl do it without trouble... A valve tune and dyno is in the near future. Hope this helps someone sometime later.
 
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