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Discussion Starter #1
So ive read through most of the threads on here and other forums about how to go about removing the right engine stud, for the purpose of installing sliders. Well after i stripped it (using impact gun btw), i tried the extractor method, and the extractor broke off inside the bolt...

ive seen numerous posts about the castle lock nut and whether it's supposed to stay on or not for the purpose of gettin the bolt out.

any other bright ideas or things i could try??

also, how the bolt is now, is it even safe to ride around on?
 

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It's very safe to ride around on...

There's a nut on the backside of that bolt that holds it in...it's notched into the engine itself so it can't move ...but you can reach and treat it with heat or PB
 

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Shoot some pics and pick up a Dremel...we'll get it done

You may be able to cut the head off the bolt and just punch it thru...this would free up the retaining bolt
 

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You can use an automatic center punch to break up that ez out (the spring loaded ones). They are hard and brittle and break out fairly easily. Then drill and tap. I have not installed sliders on a 6R yet, so not really sure what we are looking at. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Shoot some pics and pick up a Dremel...we'll get it done

You may be able to cut the head off the bolt and just punch it thru...this would free up the retaining bolt
hmmm, didnt think about cuttin the head off...

btw, i cant figure out how to attach pictures, espec not from my phone... hopefully i figure it out soon
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It's very safe to ride around on...

There's a nut on the backside of that bolt that holds it in...it's notched into the engine itself so it can't move ...but you can reach and treat it with heat or PB
yeah n whats worse is i was squirtin that bolt for the past 4-5 days with PB.

the recommendation about breakin up the bit of extractor stuck inside is a good idea as well.
 

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Normally assuming there is good access I end up welding an offending broken bolt or stud with the TIG welder to make something I can get a grip on with mole grips. The heat in the process most often frees off the stud and it can be screwed out. I use this process a lot on brake caliper nipples and exhaust studs. Hope this can help
ps throw your EZY outs away or better still give them to someone you dont like. I've been working on bikes for 30 years and never used one yet. The devils work they are lol
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Lol will do
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ok, SO! ... I was able to get the bolt out, replaced, and done dadda! Question is, the threaded part (that the castle nut was on) is all chewed to shit via vise grips BUT i was able to get the castle nut to thread back on still, with a lil bit of "influence". Is the integrity of the whole deal compromised??
 

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As long as you were able to get some torque on it, it should be just fine! If it just spins and does not ever tighten up then you have problems!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I want to put sliders on my 08 but all the stories I have heard about that same bolt I'm hesitant to attack it.
If i could do it again, here's how:
* PB blast the bolt for a couple days every couple hours and then lightly torch and heat up the bolt and use impact gun to remove bolt add slider on
 
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Discussion Starter #15
Just go for broke! Get the right socket from me and go for it!
Crash's homemade castle nut removal tool for $15 makes it easy peazy
 

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Man did I ever have a problem with that right side bolt when I putting on my OES sliders. Damn allen stripped on me. Ended up drilling it, then taking and over sized allen socket (1/4 inch I think) hammering that bad boy in there and finally got it to break free, with plenty of PB helping too. PITA for sure, but once it broke lose, had the slider on in 2 min.
 

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I have an 07' an and I hate that threaded sleeve with the castle nut. My right side slider bolt pulled out and stripped the threads at the engine block when I laid her down. For me to access the stripped/threaded area on the block I would have to lower the engine about an inch then remove the castle nut then turn the threaded sleeve towards the middle of the bike to get the sleeve out. I just havent done it.
 
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