That’s actually pretty good. 150 is the low end. Did you do this with a warm engine and also open throttle while you crank it? 230 is the high end of comp so if the engine wasn’t warmed and throttle open you will get a little lower number than it really is.Well, the compression test is done. Not as high as I wanted, but still not bad. 210-215-210-210. I'm guessing that's not too bad for a bike with 14,500 miles on it. Maybe I will ride it for a while and then do a little cam timing. I think I still have my degree wheel...
That is a pretty major change in gearing at 12%. If you were turning 6000rpm on the highway before, after you would be at ~6700rpm. I would find that annoying beyond words but lots of people seem to be OK with that sort of thing. I've never seen much point in gearing changes for street use unless you are stunting. A 12% shift like this basically just means you are running one gear lower all the time. That can easily be accomplished just by running one gear lower and then you keep the lower revs at highway speeds for less buzzy travelling.I see that a popular chain and sprocket kit for this bike is a 14/45 520. That's -1 in front and +2 in the back. That seems like a huge jump in gearing. Does anyone have experience with this set-up?
I think my motor problem was too much fuel coming out of my spark plug gap......
That looks good. What was the brand/type of paint you used?Anyways,,, painted the back wheel today. Found some epoxy paint that I hope holds up a little better than normal paint. I was going to have them powder coated, but the price seemed a little steep, so I thought I would try this first. This paint is a pain to work with, but looks ok when done.
View attachment 114056