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Rebuilding a ‘05 636

7K views 76 replies 11 participants last post by  Cedricv 
#1 ·
I just purchased a 636 that has been kept in a shed since 2009. I look forward to starting a build thread and sharing the process with everybody here. Also look forward to any knowledge from other forum members throughout the process!

This will be my 2nd Kawasaki and my 2nd attempt at bringing back some life to an abandoned motorcycle. My first attempt was very successful and only took 2 weeks from start to finish when I found a neglected 2001 CBR F4i.

I already received the title and am waiting to pick up the 636 next week! Cheers to all!
 
#4 ·
No direct experience, so it's all anecdotal.... if I had to guess, I'd think any aftermarket can would not be as insulated as the OEM can. Hence, more heat under the seat. Airflow is a crucial part of the cooling process -- if someone adds an aftermarket module under the seat area, and that blocks airflow (which is already substandard IMHO) and adds some amount of heat as well -- when you cap that off with the heat from the catalytic converter burning off the excess fuel, into a less insulated muffler system I can see how it may end up hot enough to start breaking down the ECU. The cat would burn off more, if a fuel enricher is in use, as more would make it out of the cylinder and onto the cat.

The typcial solution is to replace the '05 ECU with one from an '06. As I have no idea if there is any physical difference between the model year ECUs, I have to wonder how successful this approach is. You don't hear anywhere near as much about '06 having this issue, so there's some real possibility of a change.

Were I to buy an '05 in need of TLC, I'd probably start with gutting the catalytic converter. That's going to reduce the exhaust temp by quite a lot of degrees. It will stink more, and may appear more sooty at the tip of the muffler; if it's cooler exhaust that can only be good for the ECU. Next, I'd add some heat insulating tape on the side of the tray facing the pipe, to reflect away as much of the heat coming up off the pipe as possible. Make that patch wide enough to let the heat find another path up, that does not include penetrating the tail section.

If the '05 OEM ECU acts up after all of that, I'd get a used '06 ECU, if one can be found.
 
#8 ·
A few photos of the bike. It has been stored in this shed since 2009. Looks bad but I’m excited. Has an oval Muzzy exhaust. I haven’t picked it up yet. Waiting for the keys.
 

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#9 ·
I'd expect suspension problems due to failed seals. Electrical connections will be suspect, and there is a significant chance of vermin having my moved in. Open the air box, check for rodent nests.

Tires, battery, brake lines, driveline. Valve clearance check....... Then, cosmetics.
 
#10 ·
Personally....

Full tear down to the frame. Maybe even drop the engine just to clean everything up. :p

It's dirty enough that it could use it.

Agreed with RJ

- That shed definitely has rodents in it. Airbox almost certaily has some shit (no pun) in it). Check for chewed up wires too.
- Suspension seals as mentioned.
- Toss the battery and get a brand new one.
- change ALL the fluids obviously (brake fluids too)
- Gonna need to fresh rubber too.

Assuming it's in working order it shouldn't be much to get refreshed. Nice find!
 
#12 ·
#19 ·
Locksmith can make you a key as long as you're the registered owner or have bill of sale.
 
#20 ·
It’s looking like I will need to get a locksmith to make me a key. In other news, a used oem fuel pump and throttle bodies arrived in the mail. Going to pick up a battery...going with the Everstart walmart for cheap and will need a chain. Any idea what is a good chain for the money? I think it’s 108 links, stock
 
#73 ·
I would recommend an EK MVXZ2 chain: https://amzn.to/2Hl2Jk9

If it isn't already, I would also recommend converting it to a 520 chain and sprockets.

I use Vortex sprockets (make sure you select the correct number of teeth from the front and rear sprockets): https://amzn.to/2ZgD0Q0
 
#34 ·
Depending on what a locksmith will charge you.............


You may be better off to simply buy a brand new complete lockset from Kawasaki.......... about $180
ignition, tank, seat locks all included


That fuel tank looks horrendous........... is it rusty inside too? you will need to clean that out well, or you will continue to have issues

I really hope you paid next to nothing for this bike, like.........well under 1k, as that is all it looks like it would be worth considering the state of disrepair and neglect
 
#35 ·
I got a quote of $35 to $50 if I take the ignition to the locksmith. I can live with that. There is rust in the tank but it’s nothing I can’t take care of. I am going to clean it out, run the electrolysis process, and coat the inside with POR15. I have successfully restored tanks in the past using this procedure and this tank doesn’t look as bad as the others.

I got this bike for next to nothing! Paid $100 to rent a trailer and truck to pick it up. Bought a replacement fuel pump, throttle body setup with injectors, rearsets, and few few other bits. So far I’m in $450 total. My plan is to spend no more than $1000 total
 
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