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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all -
this is my first bike and I'm still figuring out everything about bikes. I've done some searching all day, and read up on everything I have questions about, but I still have some questions.
I was riding the other day, and my race rails (came on the bike) were loose. The right one's front bolt doesn't like to stay in place - it gets loose during every ride, and every time I think "I should get some locktite for that" but always forget. So this time I'm riding, and I guess it got really loose and that caused too much vibration and it sheared off the bolt on the rear of the rail (the big long one that goes all the way through the bike, I think that's the swingarm mount. It's hollow and there was a big long bolt in there). So I pulled over, pulled out the tools, removed the race rails put the bolts back and rode home.

So that's where my questions start, when I got home I started pulling apart the fairings to take a look at everything and see what I would need to re-attach the race rails. First I'll need the new long bolt (does this long bolt have a name, and any other purpose than just to hold in the rails?)

So then I was looking at the forward bolt where the rails bolt to the bike, looks like that's the engine mount. 2nd question, is the bolt that holds the rails on the same bolt that keeps the engine mounted? it goes into another bolt that looks like it's also connected to the motor?
If you look at this picture, it's like I was able to take out the bolt and there was still the collar and a threaded hollow tube thing? Looks like this with the bolt removed

What's all going on in there? what's the bolt do? looks like the outer hollow bolt does something too.

Then there's the belly pan, so to get to the one bolt on the right side I had to loosen the fairings and in doing so I removed the belly pan, or rather it kind of fell off. All 3 mounting points on the left side were broken, not sure how it was even staying on! I'm ordering a new one, but in the time between can I ride without the belly pan while it ships? or should I drill some holes and zip tie that guy back on there....

TLDR; how do the engine mounts work with the hollow bolts, and the inner bolts - what's the really long bolt that goes through the hollow swingarm bolt called and does it serve a purpose, or just for holding the race rails on, and can I ride without a belly pan.
 

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had a tough time understanding some of this but the upper hole is indeed the engine mount, and you should not ride the bike without that bolt.

Wasn't really following the whole "hallow bolt" thing.

As far as the belly pan, I'm assuming you're talking about the lower fairing??? If you have a new one coming, yea you can zip tie it and ride it but do not ride that bike without that engine mount bolt. Also, looks like they might be cheap eBay Chinese fairings which always break around the holes so I would expect your next set to probably do the same. You may want to reconsider and look into some more durable track plastics or look for some used OEM fairings.

On a completely seperate issue, race rails are extremely misleading. They are not actually for racing, they are for stunting. So unless you're a stunter, you may actually cause more damage to your bike going down on race rails then with just normal frame sliders. Race rails significantly increase the potential of the bike flipping during a normal slide. And if you're bike flips, the likelihood of it being totaled gets significantly increased which completely defeats the purpose of having any protection on the bike, when your protection actually totals the bike. most QUALITY frame sliders are designed in such a way that they will bend when hitting things to decrease the likelihood of the bike flipping. You should seriously consider getting rid of the race rails if you do normal street riding.

Hope that help.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hey R&B thanks for your reply!

I know, I'm having a hard time describing it, so I'm sure it's hard to follow. Def not riding without the bolts!!! just trying to figure out what all the parts do so I have a better understanding of the bike.

In the picture I posted there's 4 parts, there's the metal housing that's the frame. Then there's a collar, it's round with 4 slits in it for some special tool to remove, and that collar is threaded onto a hollow threaded tube. Those 3 things are pictured in the image above, and you'll notice there's a space/gap - that's the hollow part i'm talking about. On my bike, that's where the bolt goes in and it's also the same bolt that was holding the race rails on.

OH also forgot to ask, the one on the left was all oily... any idea?
 

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The hollow bolt press the engine to the left of the bike, to make sure there is no play between the frame and the engine, and it makes it pretty easy to install and uninstall the engine too since you just need to get one long bolt in through one of the rear engine mounts, then jack the engine up a bit, now matter how non-straight you get it in there, that hollow bolt will press the engine into its correct position. then you lock it with the ring you see on the bolt, after that, you push the bolt through the hole and into a nut on the other side that sits against the engine, making it unnessecary to hold the nut while getting the bolt in place or out of there. Get that nut too.
You are to use 44nm / 4.5kgfm / 33ftlb of torque when mounting that bolt.

The bolt is kawasaki part number 92153-0924 and the nut is 92015-1189

The missing nut is probably why it came loose. Where are the other mounting points of those rails?

You can give me a right hand side vortex rearset for 05-08zx6r as thank for the help :p
 

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most QUALITY frame sliders are designed in such a way that they will bend when hitting things to decrease the likelihood of the bike flipping.



Hope that help.


And on the zx6 with those engine mounts, that bend acually destroys the hollow engine adjuster. Without hitting anything (well the sand trap in my case). Since you need to remove the frame sliders to remove the fairing to get all the sand and gravel out and check for damages, the engine mount had to come loose a bit, for me to be able to twist the slider to get the fairing off. That ment vibrations, and lots of them, until i could use my grinder to cut the bent engine adjuster bolt and the frame slider bolt off. That so i could remove the castle nut and the adjuster bolt, and replace the whole engine mount.



I would tell anyone using frame sliders to get some washers over the castle nut so the slider sits on the washers and not the bolt, that will probably make it easier to remove after a crash.

My sliders was vortex ones btw.

Edit: you will need to use 6inch cutting disc for the grinder, and flip it, the 5 inch is too small...
 

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And on the zx6 with those engine mounts, that bend acually destroys the hollow engine adjuster. Without hitting anything (well the sand trap in my case). Since you need to remove the frame sliders to remove the fairing to get all the sand and gravel out and check for damages, the engine mount had to come loose a bit, for me to be able to twist the slider to get the fairing off. That ment vibrations, and lots of them, until i could use my grinder to cut the bent engine adjuster bolt and the frame slider bolt off. That so i could remove the castle nut and the adjuster bolt, and replace the whole engine mount.

I would tell anyone using frame sliders to get some washers over the castle nut so the slider sits on the washers and not the bolt, that will probably make it easier to remove after a crash.
My sliders was vortex ones btw.
Surprised vortex didn't work better. Of course that's always a risk with sliders but my experience has been positive with R & G racing and GB Racing sliders. Both had buffer areas that allowed the frame slider bolts to bend at a part of the bolt away from the frame. Ensuring both that when my bike went into the dirt, it didn't flip, and the bend didn't damage the frame.

Race rails have no give in them, even the ones with the sliders. If they dig in. The bike is flipping period.
 

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Surprised vortex didn't work better. Of course that's always a risk with sliders but my experience has been positive with R & G racing and GB Racing sliders. Both had buffer areas that allowed the frame slider bolts to bend at a part of the bolt away from the frame. Ensuring both that when my bike went into the dirt, it didn't flip, and the bend didn't damage the frame.



Race rails have no give in them, even the ones with the sliders. If they dig in. The bike is flipping period.

Yep. Would not recommend rails to anyone except driving school and stunters. I start to feel that any protection except engine sliders is doing just as mutch bad as good.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yep. Would not recommend rails to anyone except driving school and stunters. I start to feel that any protection except engine sliders is doing just as mutch bad as good.
Interesting! Perhaps now that they're off I should just move to some sliding pucks?
 

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Interesting! Perhaps now that they're off I should just move to some sliding pucks?

If so, get the ones red and black mentioned, vortex will have you repairing engine mounts.
You still need that nut though.
 
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