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Discussion Starter #1
I ordered a pair of used OEM rotors for my CBR, supposedly in excellent condition. Should I replace my pads when I get the new (to me) rotors? The pads are still in pretty good shape but I'm not sure if they will "mesh" with the new rotors.

 

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Mixed responses from several sources in my head...

Short answer is no. You can always help them seat by doing 6-8 60mph-5mph slows over and over again... or flat sand the pads and then do that... or bead blast the brake dust off the rotors and then do that and/or buy new pads...

But I'm going with no. You don't need to buy new pads. Track days aren't cheap. Use what you got.
 

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It's not like it's a chain and sprocket combo / metal to metal meshing

... however I've even heard people cheaping out on that and not giving a *uck. so idk man. Sorta depends on your pocket book and your personal pref.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It's not like it's a chain and sprocket combo / metal to metal meshing

... however I've even heard people cheaping out on that and not giving a *uck. so idk man. Sorta depends on your pocket book and your personal pref.
My pocket book is "deflated". I'm currently selling goodies to pay for more track days. So, if I don't really need to buy pads I would prefer not to. However, if it is necessary then I will place the order.
 

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My pocket book is "deflated". I'm currently selling goodies to pay for more track days. So, if I don't really need to buy pads I would prefer not to. However, if it is necessary then I will place the order.
Necessary, no. Not at all. Brake pads are meant to wear, they don't "eat your rotors" or anything... I mean they shouldn't. lol.

I bought braking directional rotors... bought new pads... found out later that the shop pocketed my pads and just ran my old pads... I've gone 3 track days on them. She stops fine. Even better now with the MC work I had done. I'm replacing them this week though with EBC race pads. :devious
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Necessary, no. Not at all. Brake pads are meant to wear, they don't "eat your rotors" or anything... I mean they shouldn't. lol.

I bought braking directional rotors... bought new pads... found out later that the shop pocketed my pads and just ran my old pads... I've gone 3 track days on them. She stops fine. Even better now with the MC work I had done. I'm replacing them this week though with EBC race pads. :devious
When I do get pads I am planning on going with EBC HH pads. What are your thoughts on those?
 

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Ehhh I just swapped out some calipers from the track bike with the ones on my street bike. I just left the brake pads in it and they are fine against the rotors that are on it. I am also going to be putting some used wave rotors on it too. LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I'm looking at a couple of different pads when it comes time. I am looking at EBC HH and Carbone Lorraine XBK / SBK5. So, what do you all think, what do you run? These will be for track only.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I would get new pads... and anytime you put new pads on ANY used rotors, scuff/clean them with some 400 -> 600 -> 800 -> 1000 grit sandpaper.
Scuff the pads, rotors, or both? Assuming rotors.
 

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As long as the pads are clean and the rotor surfaces are clean, you're fine. Some 400 grit on the pads and rotors or some denatured alcohol to clean them up never hurts, but not necessary. Ive done it. you might get some squealing at first.
 

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Whenever you get a new set of pads, you should always hit the rotors with some abbrassive (I personally use Scotchbrite) to remove any pad material. This provides a clean smooth surface for the new pad to bed to.

The same applies, therefore, for swapping in a new set of rotors. The pads you have on there now are bedded (mated) to the grooves on the current set of rotors and therefore will not be a perfect match to the surface of the new rotor.

Your best bet IS to get a fresh set of pads and follow the recommended bedding procedure. That being said, the pads you have now will work, they just wont be perfect. As someone suggested above, you could follow the bedding procedure to get the pads to match up better with the new rotors. I have always used the 30/30/30 method which is 30 stops, from 30mph to 0mph, with 30 seconds in between each one. You could also lightly sand the surface of the current pads to remove any microscopic grooving and flatten them out which will better help them mate with the new rotors.
 

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If your pocket book is deflated & pads are still good then why would u buy new pads? Especially at a first timers pace on the track. I'd save money for more trackdays then upgrading your bike unless of course it really needs new pads & rotors
 

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Discussion Starter #16
If your pocket book is deflated & pads are still good then why would u buy new pads? Especially at a first timers pace on the track. I'd save money for more trackdays then upgrading your bike unless of course it really needs new pads & rotors
I'm a forth timer now. :D

Point taken though.
 

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Mixed responses from several sources in my head...

Short answer is no. You can always help them seat by doing 6-8 60mph-5mph slows over and over again... or flat sand the pads and then do that... or bead blast the brake dust off the rotors and then do that and/or buy new pads...

But I'm going with no. You don't need to buy new pads. Track days aren't cheap. Use what you got.
+1, yep I would just go through the rebed process.
 
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Discussion Starter #19
:laugh

If it ain't broke....

Unless u felt it pulsate, fade, etc then I wouldn't bother changing it. A good caliper clean & fresh brake fluid should be good
The pulsating was pretty bad, hence the new to me rotors. Part of me wants to go ahead and get new pads just so I can start fresh. I really don't want to have the pulsating at my next track day.

I did a good cleaning on the calipers a couple of weeks back. I'll do it again when I get the rotors. I'll be putting new fluid in at that time as well.
 

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One thing to keep in mind...

Did you have a look at the front wheel? I had pulsating under hard braking with my bike at the track which I stupidly assumed had to be the rotors. I bought a new set only to find that the pulsating was still there! Turned out to be a bent front wheel that when replaced got rid of the problem immediately.
 
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