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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 06' zx6r 636
I have about 26,000miles on it
2yr old battery that's been on a tender the last 2 winters
I have a akrapovic slip on and a Dynojet PC
About a year after I installed the slip on and PC I started having hot start issues.
Once I started having these issues I took the PC off.

When the engine is cold it will fire right up, but after I go out riding and the operating engine temp is above 190F for a while ill turn it off to get gas and it wont start back up. I will get that rapid noise from the battery trying to turn the engine over. All electrical will work, but I cant get the engine to turn over until it cools of for about an hour or so. the wife said I cant get another bike until I get this one running or sold and I cant bring myself to sell my first bike. I am desperate for any and all advice and/or suggestions.
 

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@riverszzr is probably about the only one on here that would qualify as "professional" since this is what he does for a living.

After you start the bike cold, and you ride for awhile does it still run fine when it's hot? Is the only issue that it doesn't want to start when the engine's hot or does it also run like shit when it's hot? Can't say that I've seen an issue like this before.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
@riverszzr is probably about the only one on here that would qualify as "professional" since this is what he does for a living.

After you start the bike cold, and you ride for awhile does it still run fine when it's hot? Is the only issue that it doesn't want to start when the engine's hot or does it also run like shit when it's hot? Can't say that I've seen an issue like this before.
Thanks for the reply. When I start it cold it runs just fine as well as when its at normal operating engine temperature. I haven't noticed any loss of power or any spike in operating temperature. The only issue I have with the bike. Looking back at the notes from the last mechanic that worked on it said I may need to install a stopper plate in the exhaust. Not sure if the exhaust butterfly means anything to this issue, but I just want to share all the notes that I have.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Check the valves gets a second vote says the non-pro.

While playing, would be real interested in your compression numbers cold and hot.
Thanks for the reply. I will be sure to check the valves. While I'm at it ill go ahead and get those compression numbers too.
 

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Tight valves, especially when they have zero clearance cold will certainly make bikes start super hard or not at all when hot.........

So that is a possibility at 26,000 and zero knowledge of any service history on adjusting them....... So most certainly adjust those and do the rest of the tune up service needs so you have a starting point



There are other possibilities as well;

I am confused by your statement that when hot......... "I get that rapid noise from the battery"

Are you saying the starter selenoid is clicking like it has a dead/low battery?~~ as in at the time the engine in fact is not actually turning over?
 
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I have a 06' zx6r 636
I have about 26,000miles on it
2yr old battery that's been on a tender the last 2 winters
I have a akrapovic slip on and a Dynojet PC
About a year after I installed the slip on and PC I started having hot start issues.
Once I started having these issues I took the PC off.

When the engine is cold it will fire right up, but after I go out riding and the operating engine temp is above 190F for a while ill turn it off to get gas and it wont start back up. I will get that rapid noise from the battery trying to turn the engine over. All electrical will work, but I cant get the engine to turn over until it cools of for about an hour or so. the wife said I cant get another bike until I get this one running or sold and I cant bring myself to sell my first bike. I am desperate for any and all advice and/or suggestions.
The rapid clicking solenoid when trying to start is usually an indication of insufficient amperage to turn over your starter motor, which can be caused by a few different things. The simplest is a bad battery, just because you've kept it on a tender does not guarantee it to stay good. After that it could also be caused by excessive resistance in the starter circuit; doing voltage drop tests at different points in the starter system will give you a very good idea if you have excessive resistance somewhere. I haven't seen this a lot on Kawis, but it was a somewhat common issue on BMWs. That generation was also known for cooking their relay boxes, because of the undertail exhaust, this would cause a no start issue when hot, but I don't remember it presenting in this manner and it would also cause them to stop running while riding.
 

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Riverzz can explain..........

You could have......


The symptoms he describes do not sound like traditional ECU cooked symptoms of the 2005............. I do not know of any 2006 models that ever had any issues with the ECU cooking (even though the exhaust and ECU are both in the same place and subject to the same conditions)
 

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I have a 06' zx6r 636
I have about 26,000miles on it
2yr old battery that's been on a tender the last 2 winters
I have a akrapovic slip on and a Dynojet PC
About a year after I installed the slip on and PC I started having hot start issues.
Once I started having these issues I took the PC off.

When the engine is cold it will fire right up, but after I go out riding and the operating engine temp is above 190F for a while ill turn it off to get gas and it wont start back up. I will get that rapid noise from the battery trying to turn the engine over. All electrical will work, but I cant get the engine to turn over until it cools of for about an hour or so. the wife said I cant get another bike until I get this one running or sold and I cant bring myself to sell my first bike. I am desperate for any and all advice and/or suggestions.
OP is only about 30-40 miles from me if in MPLS..............


I know where you should bring the bike if you decide to bring it in to get fixed...............
 

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OP is only about 30-40 miles from me if in MPLS..............


I know where you should bring the bike if you decide to bring it in to get fixed...............
Then I change my advice. Since there was a question to begin with have to guess the OP has limited experiance with engine's.
Given last assumption, and assuming he would like to ride and not have to worry about it this coming year.

Do not pass go, do not collect $200 go straight to Riverszzr shop.

I've checked many valves, finally did my first shim adjustment and can say it's not an easy DIY task. Get it wrong what you have spent on the bike will take a huge hit. (bent valves and damaged pistons detracts from sale price)

Don't be penny wise and dollar foolish. Pay to have a honest service shop work on your bike.

If he was closer, and I needed to have mine done again would be fine paying the customary shop charges for a valve adjustment.
Mine cost me close to $300, paying for just parts. (had to buy all my shims)
 
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