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No Front Brakes

3.3K views 20 replies 13 participants last post by  mausteller  
#1 ·
So, I bought a rebuild kit for the front master cylinder as I was having to bleed the brakes every few days.

Got the new kit in the mail, went out tore the MC off the bike got it stripped down to find out... What is in my bike does not match whats in the package.. Ok , loss of 20 bucks via amazon on a wrong item no big deal.. Clean everything off put the stock parts back into the bike.

Now I get no pressure at the lever, can't get Air or fluid out of the bleeders. Anyone have any clue as to what I could have done wrong? I'm fairly sure nothing is put back together wrong. As I did the rear set of brakes about 20 minutes after the front, and no problems.

I'm lost as to what could have went wrong, and now looking into buying a whole new master cylinder assembly. Hope someone has an answer.
 
#3 ·
I did bleed the master first. I got 1 bubble out of it, and then proceeded and I get nothing, no air, not fluid nothing.

I tried tying the lever back over night as I have seen suggested on other sites.

I tried bleeding the master threw the banjo bolt that attaches the brake lines under the master. still nothing.

Get no fluid to the brake lines at all.
 
#4 ·
leave everything assembled, remove one brake caliper and push the piston all the way back in, reinstall then do otherside. then start at the master cylinder bleeder again until you get no more air out of it. Try slow squeeze, try super fast pump-depending on master cylinder hole location some like it slow adn others like it fast.

Sometimes if you pump the lever super fast a dozen times or more and then just stop- air bubbles will just migrate out the master and into the resevoir-then very slowly apply the lever to get more air then repeat until it doesn't work any longer-then go to the bleeders

I have always had great success will both these methods
 
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#6 ·
Is there brake fluid even getting down the lines? If not I think you might have something blocking the brake line. Try taking the lines off and blowing through it with an air compressor and see if air is even passing through it.


After that make sure you be easy on the bleeder valves and don't over tighten them. I made that mistake and stripped out the hole where the bleeder valve screws into. Not that hard of a fix but not something you want to either way
 
#7 ·
What was the first thing that happened? Did u decide just to replace the fluid because you thought you should?

What parts did u buy?

What year do you have?

Do you have abs?

Bleeding brakes takes patients. I like to inject the fluid from the bottom up, with a large serrange. That allows the air bubbles to move up, instead of fighting them. Start at the left, then right then the top. The zip tie does not work unless you have a semi firm feel on the lever.

Explaine exactly what u did, and where you are now.
 
#9 ·
Decided to rebuild the master, As I was losing pressure on the brakes every other day. Had to bleed the brakes at least every 3rd day.

got the K&L 32-1096 as the website said it would fit my front master (it did not.) When the parts showed up in the mail I did the following.

-Drain all brake fluid from the front brake system
-remove Master Cylinder
-Took master cylinder apart to find out that the K&L kit would not work
-cleaned my exiting parts, got all the old built up brake fluid off the piston.
-Put MC back together, set it down on the bench and start on the rear.

-Drained Rear brake System
-Removed Rear Master Cylinder
-Replaced all parts in master cylinder with the rear kit
-Put rear back together
-Put new fluid into the reservoir bleed breaks, continue to have rear brakes

-Put front master cylinder back on the bike
-New fluid in
-Try to bleed, notice that I got 1 bubble then no fluid
-Continue to try bleeding nothing

-Check online see advice from tying the handle down over night, then tap the lines to let bubbles move to the top so set this up went to bed. Came back in the morning still nothing

- Tried bleeding the brakes thew the banjo bolt as seen from another site still nothing

-Pull the master cylinder back apart check to make sure that everything was in line the way it should be.

- Put bike back together once again. with the same problems 1 bubble then nothing

So now I have no brakes in the front at all, and have Really good rear brakes.

so just a thought, if I get the vacuum that hooks up to bleeders from autozone would this help remove a massive air bubble in the master by building up the pressure that pulling my brake lever is failing to do?:O
 
#10 ·
Idk if this helps but it might even seem stupid.

I have an 05 zx6r and when I ordered a rebuild mc kit K&L brand, it didn't fit either. I bought it from one shop and took it to another shop and they said it doesn't work with the 05 mc. So they rebuilt my mc with oem parts instead. Ended up removing the oem parts rebuilt mc and I bought an accossato mc instead.

Anyway, I remember when I bled the brakes, I started at the mc first. I bled the crap out of them where there was no bubbles coming out, but still could not get pressure from the lever. For some reason (i'm not that versed in brakes), when I bled the calipers after bleeding the mc and went back to the mc after, I was then able to get pressure in the lever. The next time I had to completely change the brakes, I did the same thing. I got fluid through the mc and calipers, then went back to the mc and bled a little more. That's when I was able to get pressure on the lever.
 
#14 ·
Ok,
You seem to have had a problem with either one of the calipers or the master.

Try to isolate the problem.
Do your calipers come apart into two pieces? If so, the little seal between the two parts can be compressed or you may have forgotten to put it back in. But if so, you may have fluid leaking. This may jot be it, but just covering all the bases.

If you had a problem with the master before, why would it work now? Order all the replacement parts and pull it and rebuild it.

When rebuilding your master, soak it in parts cleaner. It has very small orifices that can clog, ESP. When your scrubbing the caked up crap off it. Soak it overnight in parts cleaner. If you have an ultrasonic use that too.

Pick up a vacuum bleeder tool from harbor freight. They are cheap. Even with a bleeder it is not easy to get the system bubble free!
 
#15 ·
You're bleeding a completely dry system. That's the problem. As far as your problems prior to the mc rebuilt it sounds like you had air in the system or taking in air from somewhere. A majority of peeps complain about brakes & go out & replace components when a majority of the time is due to an unthorough bleeding job. When it comes to brakes I'm anal about mine so I typically bleed with a pneumatic tool & then the traditional way for good measure. I like my levers extra stiff like my nips in this 23 degree weather. Take your time bleeding. Like others have mentioned sometimes fast lever pumping & sometimes slow pumping will flow them fluids through. It's something that you'll figure out after bleeding a few times
 
#16 ·
IMHO, sometimes OEM parts are best used. Brakes are one of those times.
Anyway, when you put the piston assembly back into the MC, was it dry? As in wiped clean? It should have been coated well with brake fluid. The fluid lubricates and helps the rubber to seal.
 
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#19 ·
You still have the used but now cleaned master cylinder piston/seal assembly. Which is what you thought were giving you problems before (thus the purchase of the new kit) and thus you haven't fixed a damn thing yet, stands to reason you would still have issues, compounded by removing the parts and reassembling them apparently.

Why waste more time and effort and money?.
Buy the master rebuild kit and put it in when you do the lines and new crush washers
 
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