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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
bought a new (to me) 2000 zx6r about a month ago, so far i like it even though its a little bit older than my previous gsxr was, but heres the thing. one morning on my way to class i go to fire it up and nothin happens, lights are dim, starter makes one click and dash is blank, i figure oh well its the battery, its shot, so i got a new battery and filled it up and let it sit then charged it on my trickle charger (not my first time doing this so yes it was done properly). about 4 hours later i throw the battery in, and everything is back to normal, but when i start it up with the new battery in it didnt fire right away, it turned over for about 3 seconds, then i stopped, waited a few seconds then tried again briefly, and it started. choke on since the engine wasnt warmed up yet, but when it started it gave a kind of hesitency to keep it running for.the first couple seconds untill rpms run up a little bit. this normally stops after about 3-5 seconds on average, but maybe happens 10 seconds at most, but after then it seems like everything is fine, and when the bikes warm it doesnt hesitate at all when i start it. it kinda is like if you had a small misfire in a car (if youve ever had one) but for about the first 5 seconds while the bike is running, i want to start small so im going to replace spark plugs soon, and most likely grab a voltometer to check if its something in the charging system. i dont believe it would be anything with the carbs becuase it runs flawlessly when its on the road. does anyone have any clue what it could be? because if its a bad charging system component i dont want to run the bike and ruin another battery, thanks in advance from a new member
 

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buy iridium plugs, best upgrade for the buck you can do.
But it most def can be carb issues with the choke/fuel enrichment circuit being blocked.
You should also balance the carbs if you don't know last time it was done.
Run some Techron or SeaFoam through a couple tanks, on the heavy side.
Oh yeah, might want to use ethanol-grade Stabil in fuel if you don't ride it very ofte.
I HATE ethanol in our fuel supply - worst stuff in the world for carburetors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
thanks for suggestions so far, i forgot to mention that i do ride it often (nearly everyday) and i only run 91 octane with no ethanol, from time to time i run a little octane booster too, today im going to grab some more carb cleaner and.spark plugs and see if that makes a difference, it doesnt really seem like a misfire but then again it kinda does, its hard to explain, its just confuses me how its only during the first few moments of it being started
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
just pulled the spark plugs.. for not knowing how old they are they honestly look pretty decent, small traces of oil on the threads but not much at all, ill try to upload the pic i took in a second
 

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I wouldn't be too worried.

Had mine for 3yrs and put 25k miles on. Even with 40k milage on the engine (2 valve adjustments done) I had no trouble and what you describe sounds alright to me.


As mentioned before, just get someone to balance the carbs but that should be all.
also depends if you got an aftermarket slip on or if the exhaust system is all stock.
I had my 2001 as 2nd bike and didn't want to mess around with carb tuning so i left it all. Bike was very reliable. Any temperature from 23 to 113F. Never shut off on me or wouldn't start.

If you want to know more about my old bike's maintenance history let me know here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
so you think it would be something with the carbs rather than ignition system? because it started happening when i replaced the battery, and previous to that the carbs had been flawlessly, and by saying you wouldnt be too worried about it do you mean i should be fine with riding it until i can get it fixed up?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
btw i know it has a yoshi slip on at least, cant tell if its the full exhaust or just slip on, even though i have a hunch its the full exhaust since the headers are a little bit more champaign/goldish color than the silver color most stock headers are, also for having 25k on it they seem like they would be a little more discolored then they are, leading me to think its a full system.. it also bicksfires between shifts at 8k rpms or higher
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
also i forgot to mention, i took the bike out today, and it always sounded like it had a misfire up until about 3k rpms, anything above that and.it was fine, anywhere from idle-3k rpms is misfiring
 

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After about 100-200miles after changing spark plugs, take them out in order and check the ceramic tip by the electrode.

almost white or beige is bad!!! running too lean meaning the spark plugs don't get enough cooling from the fuel and over time causing the spark to burn a hole through your piston.

misfires with race exhaust is pretty normal. mine popped once every now and then when i started up the bike from cold.

everything form uneven idle up to running high rpm with choke fully open is normal for me. as long as the bike stays at almost even idle (without choke) after 30sec of having choke half way on for start up.
And with saying don't worry about it i mean it doesn't need fixing. Can't get it perfect. Might give you more trouble if you start playing around with things that are running good already.

Here's a race exhaust header, all shiny in the front:




Now look at the welding seam right below the rear brake pedal. That is an extra layer of metal jacketing functioning as a heat shield. Also the pipes are 4 into 1. It got one squarish manifold where all 4 pipes come together and end in one. Most race exhaust are 4-2-1
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
is there anything that sounds like it would be the culprit? spark plugs, coils, etc? to me it seems like an ignition issue rather than carb issue, and i know what you mean about getting it perfect, but it kust kinda urks me that it does it when it had no symptoms of how its acting just a couple days ago, im just looking to fet it sorted out so it runs like it did before
 

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After having just solved a rough idle and stalling issue myself, I think you should do a throttle body synchronization. I bought one of these and both of my issues went away.

Throttle bodies that are out of sync are more noticeable at low engine speeds rather than high. Since your problem is occurring at low speed, this could be it. Do you know the last time a sync was done? If the answer is no, you need to eliminate this as a variable before tackling more intense and expensive repairs.

SyncPro Carb Tuner | Motion Pro
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
sorry for late reply, but after riding around 200 miles on the new plugs ive taken them out and looked at them, the electrode tip where the cylinders hit were both white on cylinders 1&4, cylinders 2&3 had some oil covering both of these electrodes, my question is, is it bad for the electrodes to be coated with some oil? just replaced spark plugs on the bike now im thinking coils are next?
 
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