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Well..lately I've been tracking down/diagnosing a wobble in the handlebars. Pretty sure it's out of spec, and the fact it's sometime joined by a "POP" noise I'm not too happy. Other than the 1/2" of bar end wobble around 45-60MPH (light touch/no holding) and coasting, it seems fine. It's stable in the corners mostly but I have had a couple scenarios where I didn't feel too sure, and today with speed during heavy braking in front, as I applied the rear brakes it started getting loose/squirrelly until you let off rear brakes.

Any thoughts?
Tire pressure, tire wear, steering neck bearing adjustment..... If you were doing wheelies, you could have dented the races. Wheel bearings, torque settings on the front axle........lots of possibilities. Not something to disregard.
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
@Distrophe I picked it up for around $10,500 before taxes/gear/parts/etc with 0 miles on it. I'm 26 (purchased when 25), and INS around $125-150/mo (No accidents/tickets). I would recommend grabbing a 2017 if there's no miles on it and the price is right. I would stay away from demo models, or models where the battery/fluids have sat in the machine until it's sold. My bike was on the showroom floor since they got it, had 0 miles, 0 scratches, no battery/fluids (other than brake fluid which I think they changed at delivery).
@PhotoAl I've been using Pirelli Angel GT tires for front and rear, the rears have been holding up to ~8000 miles+/- and I don't baby this bike, I hit redline sometimes once a day, launch it, wheelies, stoppies, rolling endos, gravel roads, grass yards, and maybe 1 burnout so far (they still grip like stockish). I also do mostly highway miles, with 20+ being mostly straight (boring I know) to get anywhere from my house and 20+ back.

As for those hills in your pics, I can see the grade %, I live in valleys myself so I know what to look for in a pic to see the angles.
@RJ2112 I've considered the wheelies to be a possible cause, but the popping isn't constant. Also I don't drop my wheelies EVER, I've never bottomed out the front end doing tricks, only once stopping super quick from a freak light issue at a stoplight. I've still got to check the rear wheel bearing and lift the bike to check the front end for caster issues (movement). We checked the front TQ spec and it was on point. I'll be checking everything in 2000 miles when my valve clearance service is due, I hit 14,000 miles coming home last night.

Everyone should check out my Insta(hoe) to see the bike and keep an eye out as I do post a good amount on there. I've been asked to upload pics here but I don't have pics on my computer just my phone. Go ahead and follow my on the Insta: dillyd636
 
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I'll checkout the Insta when able. Building an addition in Tahoe. Don't want to use too much data w/o wifi.
Thanks for the input. Ins varies but examples are helpful. I'm 29 w/ 1 ticket in my truck 15 months ago for 10 over in a 65. $8k price "new" & the dealer probably wants close to $10k after markups. Not a demo & I'll check if the fluids are over a year old. I wonder if that's ok since not being ran.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
@Distrophe Ins looks more at accidents first, then speeding tickets and the charge. I also have full coverage w/ some extras at the price I stated. Don't forget you can talk the price down, if a '19 is selling at xxxx price then they better be ready to compensate for that when the bike is over 1 year old and the lack of OE features (QS). I talked my dealer down $500 as the '18 was out and they we're trying to get the same price being KRT labeled)

Oil breaks down after 6 months, so if they don't change the oils at delivery (or include that in the 1st service after break-in) then I'd call them on it or go elsewhere. AND ADD THE 5 YEAR/UNLIMITED MILEAGE EXTENDED WARRANTY, it's great peace of mind when you put the miles I do and ride the way I do, I'll have close to 100k miles after 5 years.
 
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@Gawernator I keep hearing recommendations for the Pirelli Angel GT tires.

@MizzouRah Let me know how things go for you.

I have ~2500 miles on the OEM Battelax tires currently, they're nice for stock and for a commuter (mostly and currently) I feel like the life is too short for how I've been riding (70 miles round trip for work 5 days/week, mostly 55+mph).


On a side topic, I'm torn between what to do as for exhaust/FC mods. I've been reading @EvilTwin posts about the subject a bit (and tune Subarus myself) but would really like to get a Yoshi R-77 Carbon slip-on and a link-pipe, yet I hear deleting any of the CATs can cause a lean A/F ratio. My dealer says Kawasaki is pretty good about mods as long as they aren't the cause of the failure..SO I'd like to be heard, but if I won't cause damage with the Yoshi R-77 Carbon/link-pipe W/OUT the PCV/Bazzaz...will I regret it 10k miles later this year?


I have a riding buddy who racks up lots of street miles, and works at a bike shop. He runs them, so I tried the Pirelli Angel GT tires, and can say I liked them, they return very favourable tread life, Not an 'A' class trackday tire, but for street use, they are OK; I also ride in the rain and was very pleased with their characteristics. I like them mainly autumn through winter and into early spring. Look at their tread design, no not the Angel/Demon jizz, but their grooves are very deep, so that tells you it handles the wet. This tire has also set world records for greatest miles/@100+ mph/over a single 24-hr period. So they have the mileage, but can run safely a high speeds for long periods. And I would go with them again, but...

On the Bridgestone topic, I love their sport tires, most esp. their Rosso series. These I trust them at the track. But that's most often warm and dry. And even in the cool and damp I trust them. I trust them on the street. If I was as fast as I once was, I'd be on the Supercorsa SP V3. But, I am not as I once was. Oh joy, the old me can save massive amounts on tires :motz2:

I also like Michelin Pilot Power series very much, too. The one brand I'm not a fan is Dunlop... unless you are running it only on the track. And you have a Dunlop sponsor. I don't like their wet weather abilities; and if you're not a trust-fund baby, their tread life is comparable to a gnat's life span. Now, in all fairness my Dunlop experiences have been on Litre sportbikes: 996S, 900RR, 954RR, R1s & 1000RR. I have not used them on a middle-weight Super Sport bike.

Others may experience vastly differing outcomes, C'st la vie.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
@ZedExMuse I've gone through 3 of the Angel GTs on the rear in 18,000 miles, and another is going on shortly into spring and swapping another on the front too. I ride all year minus winter (NY uses so much damn salt) rain or shine (unless there's an event/girl) so I've put these tires through several abuse tests, (power) wheelies, locking the rear tire, hard riding in rain, burnouts, and rolling endos yet they keep performing like stock (on the street) and have great life. I get about 6k-8k from a rear and 7k-9k from the front and again, I play hard.

I don't think I'll be tracking the bike for at least another year for one simple fact, I don't have a leather monkey suit. Also I bought this bike to be a commuter so until other priorities are finished there won't be a track day for me, unless someone wants to donate a custom suit to fit (I'm an unusual shape for my size).


On a side note, I need to grab some feeler gauges to do the valve clearance check over the winter so she will be ready for spring hooning. Also working on a plate flipper to delete the tail section, I have the hinge but haven't decided on turn signals so I haven't finished the mounts. To add to the dilemma I haven't found an actuator that's small enough to fit under the rear seat w/out bulky cables coming through the tail section so I'll just leave it manual for now.

What are some good options for turn signals? The stock are way too bulky for the delete I'm making, looking for something bright (led) yet smaller than stock..maybe 1/2 the size. Been toying w/ the idea of pods under the rear set plastics but the angle points down so I'd have to make custom pods for that spot, I'd be open to it but prefer to keep them near the plate but price is a big factor too.

What's a good plate light? Stock is too big/dim for size and won't look right w/ the delete I'm making. LED preferred, and cheaper the better. I have a feeling I may have to fab up a pod here too.
 

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@ZedExMuse I've gone through 3 of the Angel GTs on the rear in 18,000 miles, and another is going on shortly into spring and swapping another on the front too. I ride all year minus winter (NY uses so much damn salt) rain or shine (unless there's an event/girl) so I've put these tires through several abuse tests, (power) wheelies, locking the rear tire, hard riding in rain, burnouts, and rolling endos yet they keep performing like stock (on the street) and have great life. I get about 6k-8k from a rear and 7k-9k from the front and again, I play hard.

I don't think I'll be tracking the bike for at least another year for one simple fact, I don't have a leather monkey suit. Also I bought this bike to be a commuter so until other priorities are finished there won't be a track day for me, unless someone wants to donate a custom suit to fit (I'm an unusual shape for my size).


On a side note, I need to grab some feeler gauges to do the valve clearance check over the winter so she will be ready for spring hooning. Also working on a plate flipper to delete the tail section, I have the hinge but haven't decided on turn signals so I haven't finished the mounts. To add to the dilemma I haven't found an actuator that's small enough to fit under the rear seat w/out bulky cables coming through the tail section so I'll just leave it manual for now.

What are some good options for turn signals? The stock are way too bulky for the delete I'm making, looking for something bright (led) yet smaller than stock..maybe 1/2 the size. Been toying w/ the idea of pods under the rear set plastics but the angle points down so I'd have to make custom pods for that spot, I'd be open to it but prefer to keep them near the plate but price is a big factor too.

What's a good plate light? Stock is too big/dim for size and won't look right w/ the delete I'm making. LED preferred, and cheaper the better. I have a feeling I may have to fab up a pod here too.



Your post has a fair amount of meet to it. Well done, sir. Upon reviewing it, it gave me food for though(s)

1) Glad to hear you've had good experiences with the Pirelli GT. I'm needing new rubber, and am giving thought to going back to them. I made the mistake of allowing myself to be talked into a set of Dunlop, yielding very few miles out of them. Apologies to Dunlop fans, I recognise it must be me and Climate Change, a Hoax, or Russian technological interventions, because I have never been able to have them more than a gnats lifespan.

2) Gear... yes it is expensive, even the stuff off the rack @CG. Here are a few thoughts regarding that issue: For many years, more than twenty, I've kept a folder on my computer simply titled ABC, which is short for ANNIVERSARY, BIRTHDAY, & CHRISTMAS. You can develop your own catchy title if you don't like mine. This is essentially a cache for various moto-porn items. So, let's say you need a new chain & sprockets. You post in this folder (cut & paste) all the pertinent data, such as Brand, part #, colour, pitch (in my case I use 520 chain 'cuz they are lighter in weight), etc. You list the price, the web site and URL link, etc. So, say a small group of friends pitch in and buy you the chain. And perhaps another small group pitch in together and get you the front/rear sprockets - you have to post things like how many teeth front/rear.

Now there are a couple of gifts you are eager to open up (After a while you can distinguish the hefty weight of a D.I.D gold 520 chain). No more: (dejected voice) Greaaaat, thank youuuuu sooooo much. What's it do? Your face lights up; once again you're like an impatient 8-yr old, digging into the wrapping/gift bag.

And then BAM!, your face is glowing with pure distilled joy! Can I get an AMEN; can I get a HALLELUJAH; brothers and sisters can I get a AMEN?

At any rate, you get what you really want. Example #2, for my 40th birthday, my wife organized a party. But she had gone to all the invited guests and had them pitch in any amount they chose to. She then went down to the bike shop where I do business and bought me an Arai Corse Air Nicky Hayden replica helmet! Top tier moto-porn, eh? HALLELUJAH; PRAISE GOD; AMEN, SWEET JESUS. I was well and truly shocked, I gave a seemingly weak 'thank you' to the group. I spent the rest of the evening going around individually thanking every guest for their contribution. Even now, when I look at that helmet, I'm in awe.

If you build it they will come. Which brings me to the 'leather monkey suit'. Get a two-piece zips together as a matched set. Why? You can perhaps receive the jacket first. Patients, dear boy, patients. BAM! Maybe 6, 9, maybe 12 months later you receive the pants that go with it. Your turn: HALLELUJAH; PRAISE GOD; AMEN, SWEET JESUS --- OOOOOHH, YEAAAAH! Oh yea, that configuration will better fit your, "... unusual shape for my size" without having to go to a custom made suit.

3) I think you may be over thinking the flapper valve thing: Now you didn't hear it from me... if you get pinched for flipping the plate out of view :coocoo:devious:dowhat. You could use a small cable that were used for adjusting the choke on a carburetor of old car. they're small diameter cable - no bigger than a bike throttle cable - that is merely a push/pull part that you would control with a small lever/knob. Once a year take it off and lube it, and re-attach it. Presto!

PM me if you want to discuss the plate, light, turn signals, etc. If you do go this route, please send pictures of what you're dealing with.

Thanks. Good luck.

Hallelujah, and Amen :angel.

:cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
@ZedExMuse I haven't tried another sport-touring tire yet so I can't say anything about the Michelin I also heard about. As for the monkey suit I DO have a textile 2-piece suit but they aren't track legal, I usually ride w/ the jacket when it's decent out or the whole suit when it's crappy. Down the road I'll get a custom suit tailored to my size as I haven't gained/lost 1lbs in 15 years. I also don't have many friends/family so I end up doing it all myself haha
 

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@ZedExMuse I haven't tried another sport-touring tire yet so I can't say anything about the Michelin I also heard about. As for the monkey suit I DO have a textile 2-piece suit but they aren't track legal, I usually ride w/ the jacket when it's decent out or the whole suit when it's crappy. Down the road I'll get a custom suit tailored to my size as I haven't gained/lost 1lbs in 15 years. I also don't have many friends/family so I end up doing it all myself haha

1) Many, I surely cannot say all, but many allow textile pant/jackets that zip together. Check with the sponsoring organizations to verify if a zipped together textile with armour will satisfy their criteria. But what if yours of two different makers? Take them to either a seamstress, or some shoe repair places can get a long heavy duty zipper and usually for a moderate fee can have it back to you in less than a week.

2) OK, few family/friends... that makes it a wee more challenging. What you need in your life is a disciplined plan: Make a game out of it - that way you don't feel you're punitive to yourself. I don't need to know your financial situation. You do!

Use a small envelope, just slightly bigger than a dollar bill; and get a ziplock sandwich bag. Every time someone gives you change back, repays a lunch you picked up Get a steamer/latté maker and stop spending money on coffee drinks, softdrinks, and like kind of expenditures. Apologies to the cute baristas:devilish.

Put the ziplock bag in a dresser drawer. Put the envelop in a place in your room where others would not see it, but readily accessible.

Say you get $5 from whatever source. Now lengthwise fold it into equal thirds. Then place it into the watch pocket on your jeans. The 'game' is really only with yourself. Now put the five in the envelope. Someone else pays you four dollars for whatever; and another gives you back $1.50. Put the buck in with the $4, and the $0.50 in the baggie. Then walk away.

At the end of your day put all the bills in the envelope and the change in the ziplock bag. The next time you get a $5 bill take the one in the envelope along with the 2nd $5 and change it out for a $10. From there just keep trading in smaller bills for larger currency.

Keep the coins separate from the paper (I know it's actually fabric) money. Usually if you're like most people 1) you don't like 'breaking' large bills; soon the five becomes ten, and then $20, and next a $50, and onto a $100. Once I get a $100 bill I place it in another envelope that's off limits from 'poaching.' What's 'poaching? That's when you go back into your wee cache and take out a $20 'cuz you're going out for dinner (it doesn't matter if it's burgers & milkshakes, or if it's surf-n-turf and zinfandel, and you just want a little 'spending money'. Now you have two envelops of money. A) Only $100s, and another of $5s, $10s, $20s, $50s. Very rarely I poach a $5 or $10 out, nothing ever as large as $20.

Now the baggie full of coins - when it gets really full take it to your band or c.u. Now my credit union has a machine that's self operated, for members there is no charge, but for non-members there's a nominal fee. Now, you're gonna have $30, maybe $50 in coins. Now deposit the total amount into your savings acc't. All of it, don't round it off. Now, the money in the savings ought not be accessed via a debit card. You may have to go into your bank/c.u. to make changes to the status of those acc'ts.

It's just a psychological border. One that says these '$X dollars' are off limits. That's basically how I pay for All of my moto-porn. I do not use 'household' or 'family' monies to pay for my addictions.

I usually take two 'big moto-trips' each year: one back to the Rocky Mountains - some configuration of, ID, WY, CO, NM, UT, MT, AB, BC. Then another down the OR & CA Pacific Coast down through the Redwoods, San Francisco, Santa Cruz, Big Sur and down to Cambria (my fave coastal town).

Then I head east across the state to Visalia and on to the Sierra Nevada at Kings Canyon N.P/Sequoia N.P. Then N to Yosemite NP, onto the E side of Lake Tahoe (vastly less traffic than the CA side. This sounds like a fairly quick route except I am zigzagging back and forth from the E side to the W side, than back agin over to the E side. Press play/repeat. And these are over 8,000-ft-9,000-ft summits, Tioga Pass out of Yosemite is 9,944-ft a the Ranger check point. I keep heading N past Reno, and on to Lassen N.P. This one is so awesome I always ride it first N, then turn right around and head to the S entrance.

I eventually make my way to Lava Beds N. Monument, near the CA/OR border, and continue up the E flank of the Cascade Range. These whole adventure take between 10-days - 2-wks. And they each cover≈2500-2900 miles. And yes, every inch of the way is on my Ninja. Again, I pay this with my mad money; gas, food, lodging, etc.

I'm living proof it can be done. And I'm an old curmudgeon with osteoarthritis, prosthetic lumbar spine, two prosthetic shoulders, etc.... You just gotta want it, and you have to be disciplined.
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 · (Edited)
Alright you degenerate speed demons, no? Just me? Anyways, It's been a while since I've posted anything in a couple months. Here in WNY it's been bi-polar af, snowing one day then 65* another day. I managed to get out a couple times over the winter after the snow melted and the roads weren't made of rock salt (literally more salt than tarmac), BUT that won't happen again.

This being my first motorcycle I wasn't aware that Kawasaki didn't want riders using their machines in temps below 45*, so when I went to go for a ride I was greeted to the ignition cylinder being frozen. At first I couldn't push the key in, then after that was sorted I couldn't turn the damn key, well not until I took a hair dryer to the cylinder and then it would turn.

I was then blinded (not really) by the FI light coming on. Nothing seemed to be wrong other than the light, rode pretty normal other than a little extra popping on deceleration. Took it to the dealer (warranty life) and they said the code was for a sensor which monitors the exhaust servo. I continued riding and the FI light would randomly go off, then back on, etc. After the 4th ride the light stayed on, so I put the bike away for the winter.

A few weeks ago I went to start the bike and noticed it didn't sound right, like it was struggling to breathe. I decided to check the butterfly valve near the muffler, sure enough that little shit seized closed. I deducted it was due to the salt dust kicked up mixing w/ condensation and not only rusting the inside on the pipe but caused it to seize shut. Called the dealer back and told them what I found, they said to drop it off (tow it obviously) after I do the 16k maintenance items (valve clearance check/adjustment, spark plugs, etc).

Currently I've got the plastics, tank, valve cover, and front end off. After checking the valve clearances I found the intake valves were just a bit below minimum specs, but the exhaust...they're TOO far below minimum specs. the exhaust valve clearances ranged from the upper end of intake side to barely meeting the minimum (.17mm-.19mm vs .24mm-.31mm as stated in the shop manual). After having to run and get a tool damn near every time I changed what I'm working on (tool to large for space, not right size, needed adapter) I stopped tonight when I needed an 8mm/12mm wrench for the CCT.

I brought the plastics inside for a proper cleaning/detail, including the headlights which needed a bulb and it gets interesting. The headlights seem to be PEELING! When you catch the light just right you can see a peeling effect which if you take your nail to it you can even peel off more "clear coat" for lack of better term. I noticed it start a bit around 3k miles but thought it was dirt, so I'll be bringing them to the shop tomorrow when I grab new shims to adjust the valve clearances.


So what do you guys think about the clearance ranges (yes I triple checked them all, I'm and engine builder). And further more what do you think about the headlight situation? Btw, the bike looks so weird without plastics haha
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
@n54_1er I'm in the WNY area. Location shall stay undisclosed for official reasons.

Also for those who are interested, care, or just enjoy seeing/hearing others suffer...I made a small mistake causing a massive issue I won't state here. Let's just say I feel like shit, lost all hopes for riding for the next year or so, nearly broke my fist from anger/stupidity, and basically...won't be riding until further notice. No I didn't grenade anything or wreck.

Someone cheer me up.
 

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@n54_1er I'm in the WNY area. Location shall stay undisclosed for official reasons.

Also for those who are interested, care, or just enjoy seeing/hearing others suffer...I made a small mistake causing a massive issue I won't state here. Let's just say I feel like shit, lost all hopes for riding for the next year or so, nearly broke my fist from anger/stupidity, and basically...won't be riding until further notice. No I didn't grenade anything or wreck.

Someone cheer me up.
I've been' between bikes' a number of times in my life.... Longest dry spell was 12 years.

Deployments, unemployment, children, there's a lot of things that can become a bigger priority for both bad and good reasons. We are by definition the character we are, because of the choices we make. Right, wrong, or indifferent -- the choices we make define us.

If you have to step back, that's building experience which leads to character. Hard choices build more.
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
2+ years from the ashes and the Phoenix arrises! The bike has a new long block from warranty w/ roughly 12k miles on it now (riding style has only gotten more aggressive as I've been working slowly on reaching balance point and drag racing. Also running a Hotbodies MGP carbon slip-on/servo buddy combo for 3500 miles, only hiccup doing this (including removal of the butterfly/servo) is random FI/KTRC solid on and FL/OFF123 flashing after 4-6k rpm high idle for 25-40sec but will delete itself after IGN reset.

I touched on wheelies, the bike is now laced in s21 front/dunlop sportmax (whatever) rear (42psi/38-40psi). Launching at 7-8k and rising to 10-12k as the clutch disengages, no one on a 600 has beaten me and 1000s I'm at their back tire at the line (if 2nd doesn't pop out, needs oil change, and has nearly 36k miles of daily love/fun.

For my bday I got a MotoDynamic tail light and yes it IS BRIGHTER than stock even with the smoke tint. deleted the lights on the fender and the wind was my final plate delete so I'm ordering a fender delete and running a camera wired to a screen in the mirror housing as the 1st time I got hit popped the lens (jumped timing, and bent the clutch lever around my finger, bent radiator..never went down though). So instead of having a mirror for upright and one for tucked...I can use the camera/display at any angle. It also supports a 2nd camera/video input so I may incorporate it into my micro motopc (Arduino/raspi, fpv dvr, tuner interface) for..reasons. I have pics but I'll wait till the camera is done before posting more.

I exercise my 2nd amendment right now openly and haven't had a couple close calls since. We have progress, and everything considered things are pretty good. Let's see this rocket moving again!
 
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