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Discussion Starter #1
I'm new to this forum and this is my first thread post. I just bought a brand new 2011 zx6r that was on a redtag sale clearance. This is my 3rd bike but it's been 8 years since my last 600. I know that the break in of a bike should be taken with some caution (don't redline it, go through the gears coming to a red light, etc...). I have been pretty careful on this break in but I now have 540 miles on it and I'm hearing like a flutter noise which I cant tell is coming from the valves or near the headers. I also noticed a loss in acceleration power in all ranges of rpm. Suggestions? There were two trips I took to work which are 30 miles each way and I was doing 80 mph at just under 8000 rpm. I hope that didn't do anything to the engine and caused something that should need adjustment. Any opinion or thought on this matter is welcome. I am taking it to the 600 mile service next week and will have to bring this up.
 

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Never owned a new bike, don't really plan to, so don't know anything about break-in or dealership servicing.

That being said, welcome to the forum...you should post an introduction in the new members section and make sure to put some pictures with it!
 

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Per the manual first 600 miles 4000rpm next 400 miles 6000rpm.... Everyone's opinion on this varies but I have a 2011 that I bought new and broke in. She runs great
 

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If you don't want your baby to sound like a popcorn machine, run it at half the RPMs working range during break in period. Meaning if you have a 1000 - 18,000 RPM working range, run it around 8-10k RPM.

Thing is, service manual HAS to tell you a bullshit way of breaking in the bike because they can't tell you to go drive the shit out of it because they are meant for the roads. Theres a whole website about the breakin process for motorcycles as they are much different than cars. You DO want to run them hard as shit to seat everything proper. I'll try to find the website and post back... Figured there would be more knowledgeable people on this subject here on the forums.
 

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I prefer to follow the manual and what it says ..
but yeah everyones entitled to their own opinion.

I'm at 550Km's ish and have been shifting gears at 4-4500 rpm, and not blipping the trottle when slowing down.

But again, this is the way I want to do it. Its all up to you, and how you'd like to proceed with break in ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for everyone posting input on this so far. I actually took it in today for the 600 mile service a bit early after driving another 30 miles on it. The tech told me that the noise usually is the metal shavings flying around the engine and the valves settling in. He said I can run it hard now. It's less fluttery than before. The bike is sounding better after the service and I have better response after the chain was tightened up. I will post more on this thread after my 4000 mile service.
 

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How do you keep it under 4000 RPM for 600 miles??
You don't. jesus just ride the bike how you would ride it if it already had 5000 miles on it. Gotta vary those rpms let it go the lengths, get those rings set in, and just ride the bike. Mine runs great and i was by no means easy on it when i bought it.
 

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How do you keep it under 4000 RPM for 600 miles??
Its easy ..

rev up .. 4000...shift
rev up ... 4000 .. shift .
etc
etc
etc


:)

:cool3:

Jokes aside, I am keeping it around 4-4500 rpm when shifting, and will increase rpm range at 800 km's .. to 6-7000 rpm. :) its not really that hard to control the throttle.
 

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Discussion Starter #11

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How do you keep it under 4000 RPM for 600 miles??
Residential neighborhoods.... I exceeded that sometimes, for instance going to work on the insterstate at highway speed was over the recommended RPM but I didn't beat the hell out of her
 

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If you don't want your baby to sound like a popcorn machine, run it at half the RPMs working range during break in period. Meaning if you have a 1000 - 18,000 RPM working range, run it around 8-10k RPM.

Thing is, service manual HAS to tell you a bullshit way of breaking in the bike because they can't tell you to go drive the shit out of it because they are meant for the roads. Theres a whole website about the breakin process for motorcycles as they are much different than cars. You DO want to run them hard as shit to seat everything proper. I'll try to find the website and post back... Figured there would be more knowledgeable people on this subject here on the forums.
Yearrrrrs ago I had a couple of hippies build me a small block Chevy for a Chevelle I had at the time. When I asked them what to do to break it in the answer was "How do you plan to drive it?" I responded with I intend to flog the shit out of it. The one hippie said "Well then, that's how you want to break it in." I followed their advice and that engine was unbreakable, I swear. It even did two seasons on the race track before it's end.

I've followed this procedure since then, about 1986, and I've had nothing but success.:yes
 

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I'm in the same boat. I pick up my new 636 in under 2 weeks. I've been given both views of run it hard as soon as you get it, to the pussers manual and run it exactly how it says. As this is my first new bike and I'm only 20 and will be keeping it for a while. I'm unsure as to what I should do :/
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I'm in the same boat. I pick up my new 636 in under 2 weeks. I've been given both views of run it hard as soon as you get it, to the pussers manual and run it exactly how it says. As this is my first new bike and I'm only 20 and will be keeping it for a while. I'm unsure as to what I should do :/
Here's what I did man.... I ran it with hard (no redline) for the first 570 miles. When I posted this thread I was panicking because it was fluttering and the thrust was horrible. After I took it in for the break in service, it runs like a fighter jet now!! :) They tightened the chain, and changed the oil (which had tons of metal shavings in it). The techs told me to drive it like I stole it and I'm doing just that. The engine has power and the response is great now. I was panicking for nothing however everything I can find online and from speaking with many techs is that we need to run them hard as that sets the rings good for higher pressure and engine load.

I hope this helps. :cool3:
 

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my question is i'm at 560 miles and probably will be at 800 miles before i get it serviced. will i run into any problems with that?
 

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Just so no one goes out and floggs the dog shit out of their bike and drops a valve:
Rings are usually seated in a couple dozen miles for the most part. What you want is cylinder loading. Not full on WOT blasts. "Brisk" acceleration is best; throttle roll ons so to speak. You do NOT want to bang against the rev limiter.
Further, the valve seats also need to be broken in and this takes longer than the rings.
Do as you wish, but "flogging" and "babying" are two extremes that should be avoided.
 
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