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Discussion Starter #1
My zx6r won’t start I put the keys in turn it on and nothing no dash lights no head lights nothing
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So far I’ve checked my rectifier is there’s anything else I should check
What have you checked so far?


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[/QUOTE]
What have you checked so far?


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Trey,

If you have nothing happen when you turn the key... first thing to check is the battery and whether it's got a charge. Then, check to make sure the idiot switches are all set correctly. Kill switch, side stand, clutch.

If the bike is in neutral, and the kill switch is set to Run..... that eliminates all the ways everything else can get involved.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I checked everything whn I turn the key I get nothing no dash lites no nothing
Trey,

If you have nothing happen when you turn the key... first thing to check is the battery and whether it's got a charge. Then, check to make sure the idiot switches are all set correctly. Kill switch, side stand, clutch.

If the bike is in neutral, and the kill switch is set to Run..... that eliminates all the ways everything else can get involved.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Changed all my fuses I think I need a new rectifier and stater QUOTE="Scorpi0, post: 1861462, member: 10262"]
Check battery. Check main fuse.
[/QUOTE]
 

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Use a multimeter and check the voltage at the battery. Is it 12.3 vdc?

If so, check at the fuse block.... Do you still have 12.3?
 

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Changed all my fuses I think I need a new rectifier and stater QUOTE="Scorpi0, post: 1861462, member: 10262"]
Check battery. Check main fuse.
[/QUOTE]

I dont think a rectifier does anything without the engine running. U should still get 12v to all your electronics when u turn the key on....if the battery is actually good.
I would also check your main power solenoid.
 

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Stator generates power, R/R converts it from A.C. to D.C. Battery and everything else runs on D.C. System should run from the power generated and then supplied 'after' the R/R.... It can run without the charging system, until the battery goes flat. The battery simply stores a certain amount of the excess generated power.
 

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and time at it
So after I change the rectifier I’ll check my stator Nd change the battery
better to spend a few dollars on a multimeter, and download the shop manual for your bike from this site.

Then, follow the troubleshooting steps for electrical problems and just replace what needs to be.

or keep throwing money and time at it.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Where do I get the shop app for my bike "RJ2112, post: 1861493, member: 11818"]
better to spend a few dollars on a multimeter, and download the shop manual for your bike from this site.

Then, follow the troubleshooting steps for electrical problems and just replace what needs to be.

or keep throwing money and time at it.
[/QUOTE]
 

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Discussion Starter #17
The reason I was replacing the rectifierBecause I rode my bike to work then I tried to go to the plumbing supply and wouldn’t start I still had lights on my dash but it didn’t startSo my neighbor gave me a jump it came on when Thn it died when I pulled up at the light so I came back parked it and I try to start it again and I saw smoke coming from the rectifier
 

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You may need a battery, as well as a rectifier, and it's also possible the the stator is gone. The manual will help with all of that.
 

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With a multimeter, you start at the alternator..... it has a 3 wire plug that goes to the R/R..... If you can start the bike, there should be more than 57 VAC between any two of the pins in the plug coming from the stator (unplugged from the R/R). Probably going to have to charge your battery to allow that to happen. Unplug your headlights, so it will run longer off the battery. The AC volts should increase with RPM, and be roughly equal between all three possible ways you can measure. A healthy stator puts out about 75 VAC per phase, at around 5K RPM.

If you have 57+ VAC at the input to the R/R, you are supposed to get between 12.4 and 14.3 VDC coming out of it.

If you saw smoke, it's a good bet something is melted which may include that R/R. If the alternator checks out, and you cannot get 12.4 VDC out of the R/R...... well worth replacing. The same voltage you see at the R/R, should be at the battery. to charge the battery, the VDC has to be higher than the volts in the battery already. Very similar to blowing air into a balloon.

If there is anything added to the electrical system by a previous owner...... be very, very suspicious of it. assume the worst. Your life will be less troublesome if the bike is stock.
 
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