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Discussion Starter · #162 ·
I've done my best to keep the connection from the stator to the R/R as stock, but I am still frying my wires. I'm guessing that the connections are just to loose and it's creating a lot of resistance so I'm done trying that and will wire them direct. Either butt splices or take them apart and completely re-do it with one log piece. Reaching the end of my patience with this.
 

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Loose contacts would reduce current flow. Corroded contacts increase resistance and that causes localized overheating..... Not melting wires.

If the wires keep melting, something is drawing far too much current, and it's not fuse protected. Is it always the same run of wire, between the stator and the R/R?
 

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Discussion Starter · #164 ·
Loose contacts would reduce current flow. Corroded contacts increase resistance and that causes localized overheating..... Not melting wires.

If the wires keep melting, something is drawing far too much current, and it's not fuse protected. Is it always the same run of wire, between the stator and the R/R?
It's always the same; it's not the actual wire but rather the oem plastic 3-pin connectors from the stator to the regulator/rectifier. A few days ago when I got home, I tried to shut my bike off and as soon as I turned the power off my starter continued to stay on; pretty sure it continued running while the bike was on too and this has happened before to me. I just ordered a replacement starter solenoid to rule out a possible bad one. Now I'm not sure if the solenoid was drawing additional current the stator couldn't handle - possible if it started running while the bike was actually on - but none of my fuses blew. I'll replace the starter solenoid, replace all my fuses, and direct-wire my stator and go from there. I'll do whatever electrical tests in the book I can again but I'm fairly certain it's the 3-pin connector. It really seems like a poor design and everyone and their mother has similar issues with the same setup across multiple different platforms that I can tell.
 

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Discussion Starter · #165 ·
Finished the stator to R/R fix today. Brand new connectors for the R/R plug, crimped and soldered. Used the Western Union technique for the splice between the R/R and Stator. I didn't get a picture of the final product prior to adding the insulation but from my understanding the solder needed to be added on top while heat was below in order for the solder to get in all the nooks and crannies. So far so good after and idle test. We'll see in due time how it holds up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #166 ·
Another update.

Wiring for the Stator and RR is still pristine after a while now of near daily use. As far as I can tell, my burning connectors were simply the result of poor connections.

I also bought a 2008 GSXR 600 rear shock and it fit near perfectly - just needed to do some minor adjusting. I replaced all the seals and gaskets in the shock, used medium shock oil and got the nitrogen filled at a local shop. Having felt the difference in suspension, it was easy to tell my old shock was so far gone that there was simply zero damping going on. I decided to open the old one up and found almost no nitrogen left, and very little oil. Gave it the same treatment as the newer shock and just needs nitrogen. Will be a good back-up or I may sell it.
 

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Another update.

Wiring for the Stator and RR is still pristine after a while now of near daily use. As far as I can tell, my burning connectors were simply the result of poor connections.

I also bought a 2008 GSXR 600 rear shock and it fit near perfectly - just needed to do some minor adjusting. I replaced all the seals and gaskets in the shock, used medium shock oil and got the nitrogen filled at a local shop. Having felt the difference in suspension, it was easy to tell my old shock was so far gone that there was simply zero damping going on. I decided to open the old one up and found almost no nitrogen left, and very little oil. Gave it the same treatment as the newer shock and just needs nitrogen. Will be a good back-up or I may sell it.

Glad to hear this, Brandon. Hope all is going well for you.

Good suspension is priceless stuff, and you don't know how bad it is until you've gotten a snoot full of the good stuff.


Have you already addressed the fork? Linear springs appropriate to your weight, fresh oil and seals, possibly a cartridge conversion kit?
 

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Discussion Starter · #168 ·
Glad to hear this, Brandon. Hope all is going well for you.

Good suspension is priceless stuff, and you don't know how bad it is until you've gotten a snoot full of the good stuff.


Have you already addressed the fork? Linear springs appropriate to your weight, fresh oil and seals, possibly a cartridge conversion kit?
I did the forks a year ago, all new seals and fluid. I kept the springs I have and simply tightened up the preload a bit for my liking. I may get wild with it at some point but for now it's working well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #170 ·
While you had the shock out, did you service the linkage and swingarm bearings?
I did nearly every bearing from front to rear and engine internal (not the journal bearings though, they were in good shape) last year when I did my crankcase replacement and had the frame welded (small crack). I re-greased the bearings before fitting the new shock in yesterday.
 

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Discussion Starter · #172 ·
Very nearly like it's completed a depot level service.... All the wear items and hour rated components refreshed, structure inspected and repaired..... Here's to many operational hours without issues.
Honestly, the wallet agrees with this statement lol. With the rear shock complete, I have had my hands on every single nut, bolt, gasket, seal, and circlip on this motorcycle!
 

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Discussion Starter · #173 ·
In true fashion, it would not be long before another gremlin popped up. I think my starter is going bad - getting the solenoid click and the starter only engages a quarter to an eighth of the time on cold start. fuses are fine, battery is fine, wires are in perfect condition. Have a guy coming over next weekend for a service on his bike and while I'm working with his I'll take my starter apart and check the brushes. May get lucky with them being out of tolerance and I can pick up a set for $30.
 

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Discussion Starter · #175 ·
I can do that, but I'm fairly confident it's the starter since tha battery is about 4 months old. This starter has also seen a hell if a lot of erroneous starting with the engine on due to all the electrical problems in the past.
 

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Discussion Starter · #176 ·
I never updated on the problem. Here's what I found and did (been riding a while with no issues).

Took my starter apart - it was pretty gobbed up and caked with brush dust. Cleaned everything thoroughly and found a few split strands of wire from one of the brushes. Brushes were still doing okay - not in need of replacement yet so I soldered the strands for now. Long story short, the starter was NOT the issue.

The issue was, again, a bad starter solenoid. I'm getting tired of replacing these (this is my 4th), but my suspicion is that they were all getting messed up by the faulty wiring of the previous harness. This is the first new solenoid this new harness has seen, so fingers crossed that it's the last time I need to mess with it for the foreseeable future.

Have done a few other small things with the bike; switched over to Motul 7100 full synthetic oil - yeah it's expensive but I want this puppy to last. Also spent some time re-syncing the carbs again, fine-tuning the idle mixture, re-torqueing most of the bolts I could reach, and have finally come to a point where I'm looking at cosmetic items rather than mechanical stuff. Things are looking alright.
 

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Not sure I buy the harness killing the solenoid, unless it was making the solenoid hammer away until it destroyed itself….. it would be worth your time to open the last failing unit to do some failure analysis. Heavy wear, or burnt marks should be fairly easily spotted.

Good to hear from you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #178 ·
Not sure I buy the harness killing the solenoid, unless it was making the solenoid hammer away until it destroyed itself….. it would be worth your time to open the last failing unit to do some failure analysis. Heavy wear, or burnt marks should be fairly easily spotted.

Good to hear from you.
Before each solenoid failed, it would turn the starter with the ignition off until either the battery died, I removed the battery, or the solenoid itself (from what I gather) would fry. I think I still have the bad solenoid, I'll pry that sucker open this weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter · #179 ·
Also - my old harness was doing some really odd stuff; for example the headlight would ONLY turn on if the motor was turning, as opposed to the OE harness turning the headlight on with the ignition switch. There were a lot of issues, to include a beat up fusebox. I'm not ruling anything out yet.
 
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