It's always the same; it's not the actual wire but rather the oem plastic 3-pin connectors from the stator to the regulator/rectifier. A few days ago when I got home, I tried to shut my bike off and as soon as I turned the power off my starter continued to stay on; pretty sure it continued running while the bike was on too and this has happened before to me. I just ordered a replacement starter solenoid to rule out a possible bad one. Now I'm not sure if the solenoid was drawing additional current the stator couldn't handle - possible if it started running while the bike was actually on - but none of my fuses blew. I'll replace the starter solenoid, replace all my fuses, and direct-wire my stator and go from there. I'll do whatever electrical tests in the book I can again but I'm fairly certain it's the 3-pin connector. It really seems like a poor design and everyone and their mother has similar issues with the same setup across multiple different platforms that I can tell.Loose contacts would reduce current flow. Corroded contacts increase resistance and that causes localized overheating..... Not melting wires.
If the wires keep melting, something is drawing far too much current, and it's not fuse protected. Is it always the same run of wire, between the stator and the R/R?
Wiring for the Stator and RR is still pristine after a while now of near daily use. As far as I can tell, my burning connectors were simply the result of poor connections.
I also bought a 2008 GSXR 600 rear shock and it fit near perfectly - just needed to do some minor adjusting. I replaced all the seals and gaskets in the shock, used medium shock oil and got the nitrogen filled at a local shop. Having felt the difference in suspension, it was easy to tell my old shock was so far gone that there was simply zero damping going on. I decided to open the old one up and found almost no nitrogen left, and very little oil. Gave it the same treatment as the newer shock and just needs nitrogen. Will be a good back-up or I may sell it.
I did the forks a year ago, all new seals and fluid. I kept the springs I have and simply tightened up the preload a bit for my liking. I may get wild with it at some point but for now it's working well.Glad to hear this, Brandon. Hope all is going well for you.
Good suspension is priceless stuff, and you don't know how bad it is until you've gotten a snoot full of the good stuff.
Have you already addressed the fork? Linear springs appropriate to your weight, fresh oil and seals, possibly a cartridge conversion kit?
I did nearly every bearing from front to rear and engine internal (not the journal bearings though, they were in good shape) last year when I did my crankcase replacement and had the frame welded (small crack). I re-greased the bearings before fitting the new shock in yesterday.While you had the shock out, did you service the linkage and swingarm bearings?
Honestly, the wallet agrees with this statement lol. With the rear shock complete, I have had my hands on every single nut, bolt, gasket, seal, and circlip on this motorcycle!Very nearly like it's completed a depot level service.... All the wear items and hour rated components refreshed, structure inspected and repaired..... Here's to many operational hours without issues.
Before each solenoid failed, it would turn the starter with the ignition off until either the battery died, I removed the battery, or the solenoid itself (from what I gather) would fry. I think I still have the bad solenoid, I'll pry that sucker open this weekend.Not sure I buy the harness killing the solenoid, unless it was making the solenoid hammer away until it destroyed itself….. it would be worth your time to open the last failing unit to do some failure analysis. Heavy wear, or burnt marks should be fairly easily spotted.
Good to hear from you.