So if you look at the pictures............
Blow up view on page 8-3, can you follow along with the order of assembly?
Page 8-5.............. pull out a micrometer and actually m4easure those values with yours!
and when you say you have shift forks with marks worn in them down in the valley- that means the teeth of the gear is actually hitting it............look at it when fully assembled and you can see that is the only way (usually means the groove in the gear is worn excessively wide so the shift fork can twist, but........ can mean the clearance between the fork and the shift rod is large or the rod is bent or the drum groove has an issue/or the tooth on the back of the shift fork that goes in the drum groove)
if you look at page 8-18
you will notice the breakdown of the shims.......... they simply list a "thin" and a "thick"... and #7 and 11 toothed washers wear too- and sometimes/often you can buy thick and thin ones..........
SO when assembling you need to pay close attention to how you set this up, often you may well use all thick ones to get the clearances you want/need for best operation........... pull out your feeler gauges and measure how much side play each has when fully assembled........... ideally, you would get down somewhere in the .001"-.0015" maximum range, but I have set up some transmissions down to .0005" between the gear and washers and they work flawlessly (you will know by feel on the bench when it is perfect, even a first time assembler with any mechanical abilities worth the cost of the tools they own will be able to feel what is good and what is not good
even the c-clips wear.......... so new ones will take up some clearance
even the wear on the bushings that some of the gears ride on effects function
and the gears that slide directly on the shafts........ pay special attention to their clearnace and how easily they slide, so that they do not rock or tilt etc
as far as a "total stack height" there is no magic number and there is no standard........... you need to fiddle fuck with it and the shims and the clips- you only care how each gap between the clips works out.....total stack is what it is and is of zero consequence to anything, it can't change by more than a couple thou based on your last shims installed (sans the very last washer that goes on- those are fixed dimension from kaw to keep the whole works from walking, don't get them backwards...)
The final spacer washer on the ends of each shaft are different! I think id and od are the same but one is like 1.5mm thick and the other is like 2.3 or 2.5mm thick.........., some models do offer choices of thickensses to buy
ie................ looking at page 8-18
you would only care what feeler gauge you can get between say shim #11 and that gear......... make that be correct
then move to the next set
I mean sure.......... one can just throw any of the listed parts at it and pound it together and 99/100 it'll work....... but if you want it the best- shimming is the way!!!!!!!!!!
BUT............
But since you have shifting issues with ?popping out of second? you have something more wrong than what shimming is for.......... the precision shimming is for making it perfect after you already have it correct and functioning
So figure out what is incorrect.......... I know the book is relatively generic, I think they do that on purpose so only experienced people can do it that 100%, the book just gets you to the 85% good enough standard.....
look up the fische too, there you can see (often see) thicknesses for some of the shims, washers and clips- I often order multiples of all of them so I can shim properly and sometimes have to make my own to really make things work to the standard I am looking for............
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