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Discussion Starter #81
I think you need to update your quote, again....
Honestly, I’m so confused and my heart hurts. It’s the last step and I cant get it right? I cant even search the problem because really nothing comes up about it.
 

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Turbine pumps are pretty simple, yet rely upon precision parts.

Housings, impeller, seals, bearings, and shaft......

How many of them have you already replaced? That which remains, is high in the list of suspects...
 

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You can always try;

drain fluid, remove cover and impeller
brake cleaner on a microfiber over the ceramic seal and also over its mating piece.........

do not touch either with your fingers, regardless how clean you think your hands (or gloves) are.........
reassemble and just for testing only use water (if success, drain and install your coolant of choice)

Are you sure the pump housing itself doesn't have a crack or something............. The seals are damn near foolproof as long as clean!!!!!!! I have never once had one leak in likely 50 installs over the decades..... but CLEAN is a must, like surgical clean!!!!

maybe some of that threebond got on it?????????? 3 hours or less is pretty quick for what you are using it for....... I tend to go minimum 6 hrs on non pressurized areas and 24 hrs if it will have any pressure more than gravity..........
 

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Discussion Starter #84
You can always try;

drain fluid, remove cover and impeller
brake cleaner on a microfiber over the ceramic seal and also over its mating piece.........

do not touch either with your fingers, regardless how clean you think your hands (or gloves) are.........
reassemble and just for testing only use water (if success, drain and install your coolant of choice)

Are you sure the pump housing itself doesn't have a crack or something............. The seals are damn near foolproof as long as clean!!!!!!! I have never once had one leak in likely 50 installs over the decades..... but CLEAN is a must, like surgical clean!!!!

maybe some of that threebond got on it<img src="http://zx6r.com/images/smilies/rock.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Eh?" class="inlineimg" /><img src="http://zx6r.com/images/smilies/rock.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Eh?" class="inlineimg" /><img src="http://zx6r.com/images/smilies/rock.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Eh?" class="inlineimg" />? 3 hours or less is pretty quick for what you are using it for....... I tend to go minimum 6 hrs on non pressurized areas and 24 hrs if it will have any pressure more than gravity..........
This is the exact procedure i did the last time - I believe I've solved it now though.

I scoured the internet for a while, and from what I gathered there needs to be a small amount if liquid applied to the seal prior to mating the turbine to the shaft. This allows a "microfilm" to form and also prevents a dry run or whatever. Basically I didnt do that step so this time I resurfaced each face, cleaned, got them wet and reinstalled. Bike is currently running at idle and i have seen 3 drips within 7-10 minutes and I'm pretty sure that's just residual water from within the weep hole that hadn't escaped prior (does not come down hot). Glad to see it's finally functioning properly
 

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Discussion Starter #86
So the problem is done with and I'm troubleshooting now.

Clutch is giving me problems but it's to be expected i guess - EBC sent me the wrong clutch kit (correct friction plates but wrong steel plates). I'm using the current setup as I run my oil with an additive and it's causing the clutch to slip BAD. EBC recommends no synthetic oils or additives with this clutch kit but LUCKILY they sent me a complete new (correct) kit because of the mix-up with the year model.

So - run my oil additive for 200ish miles, drain, do a flush or two, then install complete new clutch kit and call her good. I'll be using good old fashioned regular oil from now on.
 

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So the problem is done with and I'm troubleshooting now.

Clutch is giving me problems but it's to be expected i guess - EBC sent me the wrong clutch kit (correct friction plates but wrong steel plates). I'm using the current setup as I run my oil with an additive and it's causing the clutch to slip BAD. EBC recommends no synthetic oils or additives with this clutch kit but LUCKILY they sent me a complete new (correct) kit because of the mix-up with the year model.

So - run my oil additive for 200ish miles, drain, do a flush or two, then install complete new clutch kit and call her good. I'll be using good old fashioned regular oil from now on.
1) What oil additive are you using, and why?

2) couldn’t get OEM clutch components? Seems crazy to run something that can’t handle synthetic oil these days.
 

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Discussion Starter #88
So the problem is done with and I'm troubleshooting now.

Clutch is giving me problems but it's to be expected i guess - EBC sent me the wrong clutch kit (correct friction plates but wrong steel plates). I'm using the current setup as I run my oil with an additive and it's causing the clutch to slip BAD. EBC recommends no synthetic oils or additives with this clutch kit but LUCKILY they sent me a complete new (correct) kit because of the mix-up with the year model.

So - run my oil additive for 200ish miles, drain, do a flush or two, then install complete new clutch kit and call her good. I'll be using good old fashioned regular oil from now on.
1) What oil additive are you using, and why?

2) couldn’t get OEM clutch components? Seems crazy to run something that can’t handle synthetic oil these days.
It's called "RVS" and I'm running it just to see what happens honestly. I dont expect anything. Pics below

Second - it's an EBC SRK full clutch kit. Never realized but just saw the other day on the box that it does not recommend full synthetic (dont run that anyways) and does not take oil additives well. It's an "Aramid fiber" rather than cork... ?? Pics below
 

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I really despise claims of 5% improved performance. So low a number is difficult to measure with the traditional 'ass dyno'. Do 10 different mods that each guarantee 5%, you would be very lucky to see more than 7% from where you started. Exhaust + air filter, + fuel management..... 7%? Certainly, nowhere near 115%......

PTFE was the snake oil, in the '70-'80 time frame.

Clean oil, and a fresh tune up had more impact...... And didn't make your clutch slip.
 

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Discussion Starter #90
I really despise claims of 5% improved performance. So low a number is difficult to measure with the traditional 'ass dyno'. Do 10 different mods that each guarantee 5%, you would be very lucky to see more than 7% from where you started. Exhaust + air filter, + fuel management..... 7%? Certainly, nowhere near 115%......

PTFE was the snake oil, in the '70-'80 time frame.

Clean oil, and a fresh tune up had more impact...... And didn't make your clutch slip.
I know i know - little point but i figured i'd be doing a few flushes and it wouldn't hurt anything to try it out. I wont be putting additives in again after this. Also I need to find a good non-synth fluid because a lot of what i used to by is semi
 

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I know i know - little point but i figured i'd be doing a few flushes and it wouldn't hurt anything to try it out. I wont be putting additives in again after this. Also I need to find a good non-synth fluid because a lot of what i used to by is semi
Walmart. Rotella T 15w-40. JASO MA rated.
 

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Discussion Starter #93
I will keep an eye open for Rotella. Too early to tell now, especially with a slippy clutch yet and synth blend oil, but it seems the original second gear issue may still be haunting me. It was the reason I broke the engine down the first time.

Time will tell, but honestly I cant put my finger on what it could be. My transmission was in tip-top condition, every bearing is brand new, so i can only hope it's clutch related. No metal on metal sounds, it's (again) as if it's slipping and catching immediately over and over again. Only 2nd though.
 

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+1 on the Shell Rotella T6! I've used it for all of the 70,000 miles (except the initial break-in period) on my 2009 ZX-6R.
 

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Discussion Starter #96
I think once I'm ready for the oil flush I'll go with the conventional Kawasaki 20-50. Little bit heavier weight for Cali but also for sure no energy saving additives and specifically formulated for clutched bikes. I'll change oil a little more often and stick with my Hi-flo filters
 

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The additive packages that cause wet clutch slippage are identified on the SAE/API label on the oil container..... If that round symbol has a starburst border, the oil contains the detrimental material for motorcycle wet clutches. Avoid that at all costs. 0w, & 5w all have that starburst.

I have tried running heavier grade oil than the lowest allowed viscosity in the past (15w-XX, or 20w-XX, compared to 10w-XX), and can tell the engine works harder to push the thicker oil where it needs to go. You can hear it, and feel it.

If you just replaced all the bearings, the clearances are minimal throughout your engine...... IMHO, not a good time to introduce high viscosity oil.....
 

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Discussion Starter #98
The additive packages that cause wet clutch slippage are identified on the SAE/API label on the oil container..... If that round symbol has a starburst border, the oil contains the detrimental material for motorcycle wet clutches. Avoid that at all costs. 0w, & 5w all have that starburst.

I have tried running heavier grade oil than the lowest allowed viscosity in the past (15w-XX, or 20w-XX, compared to 10w-XX), and can tell the engine works harder to push the thicker oil where it needs to go. You can hear it, and feel it.

If you just replaced all the bearings, the clearances are minimal throughout your engine...... IMHO, not a good time to introduce high viscosity oil.....
Okay good point with the bearings/tolerances. I guess I'll stick with 10w-40 but I've been doing a lot of reading online and I just feel as though sticking to the kawi oil will keep me the safest when I do my new clutch install.

Speaking of which, I saw someone say in a forum that they did a light sanding of their new steal plates before install. Is this necessary?
 

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That's a riversZZR question. I would think it unnecessary for typical day to day use; sanding the steel is likely to leave abrasives embedded in the steel, which would mess with the flatness, etc. Whatever the mfg tolerance is from Kawasaki, the plates should be in spec for that from the get go.
 

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Discussion Starter #100
That's a riversZZR question. I would think it unnecessary for typical day to day use; sanding the steel is likely to leave abrasives embedded in the steel, which would mess with the flatness, etc. Whatever the mfg tolerance is from Kawasaki, the plates should be in spec for that from the get go.
Yeah hopefully he chimes in. I cant see why a 1000grit would hurt to scuff them quick maybe (I assume maybe there is some residual machining fluid on them?)

Really hoping my 2nd gear issue is worn/warped clutch plates and synth oil with additives. I saw online that the Moly stuff in some oils is irremovable from things it has contacted.
 
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