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Discussion Starter #61
Slowly working on a fix, wont really know what I can do until later this week when I start meticulously measuring all the parts. Worst case, I may buy a new 2nd gear input and output gear, get everything ISF treated and call it a day. Considering myself lucky too - I failed to realize in my reading that the piston rod bolts needed to be replaced because they stretch when torqued. Maybe that’s common sense for some of you old-timers but that was news to me.

Parts in/coming in
- New thermostat and head coolant gaskets
- all new bolts/nuts for the piston rods
- R&G exhaust sliders for the new can
- brand new, full EBC SRK clutch kit (friction plates, steel plates and heavy duty springs)

Hope to be on the right track soon - want this thing to be bullet proof. Only thing I have not done yet is a valve adjustment but I may wait till I’m out in Cali to start looking at that

It is a hell of a lot easier to do while the engine is already out of the frame!!!!!!!

At the very least you should get exact measurements and see where they are........... No idea why you wouldn't have done that when you were doing everything else <img src="http://zx6r.com/images/smilies/rock.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Eh?" class="inlineimg" />

I had measure the trans parts the last time I put it together and everything was fine. I suspect no changes except that tooth being punched off so I'm going to check both sets of gears/forks/dogs/drums. Hopefully I can just do a few gears swaps. If everything is within spec by a good margin I’m looking at sending the gears off to get shot-peened and ISF treated.
 

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I had measure the trans parts the last time I put it together and everything was fine. I suspect no changes except that tooth being punched off so I'm going to check both sets of gears/forks/dogs/drums. Hopefully I can just do a few gears swaps. If everything is within spec by a good margin I’m looking at sending the gears off to get shot-peened and ISF treated.
I think he meant the valve adjustment.
 

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Discussion Starter #63 (Edited)
Okay so here’s what I’m looking at. First pic is the trans I put i to the bike - the dogs are worn on the front edge of every gear, whereas the second picture is my original trans with little/no wear on the dog edges. Checking a few more things out and will NOT be sending out the trans to get treated.
 

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That second picture looks to be in far better shape than the first.......

So that output shaft itself, what does that look like if as you said the nut that holds the sprocket on came loose......
 

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Discussion Starter #65 (Edited)
That second picture looks to be in far better shape than the first.......

So that output shaft itself, what does that look like if as you said the nut that holds the sprocket on came loose......
I’ll get a pic of that too but it looks good - had a little bit of surface rust on the splines but cleaned up good and there is no issue with sprocket play or anything. Honestly i think that probably was more clutch related at this point (hence full clutch replacement).. even with a loose sprocket nut it wouldn't by jumping splines. I have a new sprocket nut and washer anyways and will be torqued and blue thread locked.
 

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Discussion Starter #66
Quick update. Last three crankshaft bolts will be in tomorrow so looking forward to getting the engine back in soon. I bought a new (to me) gauge cluster and decided to finish my zzr fairing stay bracket (finally) since the old gauge was held on by zip ties. Essentially I'm having a bracket I made welded to the stay so the gauge clears the fairing and steering assembly. I cut off the old zzr gauge mounts to make room. Should be pretty solid!

PS I used the angled side of my Buell's old broken exhaust to give me the angle I needed for the gauge to clear the steering movement.
 

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Discussion Starter #69 (Edited)
Very clean, and creative. Nice work.
May have reinforce slightly, depending on if it vibrates a lot or not. Either a supporting brace behind the cluster or the hole/punch technique. Either way, much better that what I had previously.

Crank bolts are in. Assembly will start soon and we'll see if the engine gets back in by this weekend. A few extra bits going on (R&G muffler savers, new grips and new throttle tube, upgraded clutch kit, all new trans bearings and gasket, new sprocket/clutch nuts, new speed sensor cable and choke cable, etc.). Should be solid. Also doing an oil treatment after a flush (claims made to reduce wear and slightly increase compression, figured I'd do a lower (100 mile) cycle of it and see how it works out). All that's left after this is to save for all new plastics. I have the rubber grommets for the fairings but will wait till I have new fairings to use them since I dont think they will hold well on my shit-tastic fairings.
 

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Discussion Starter #70
Engine is in. Two days of bad weather means no flying means bike could be ready for a weekend ride. I'll be buttoning up the rest tonight and doing a coolant and oil flush. Pretty happy.
 

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Engine is in. Two days of bad weather means no flying means bike could be ready for a weekend ride. I'll be buttoning up the rest tonight and doing a coolant and oil flush. Pretty happy.
Hey Brandon. When you are removing and replacing your engine ... do you do it yourself? How do you muscle that motor in and out of the frame as easily as possible? Just curious ...
 

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Discussion Starter #72
Engine is in. Two days of bad weather means no flying means bike could be ready for a weekend ride. I'll be buttoning up the rest tonight and doing a coolant and oil flush. Pretty happy.
Hey Brandon. When you are removing and replacing your engine ... do you do it yourself? How do you muscle that motor in and out of the frame as easily as possible? Just curious ...
It's all myself. I use a car jack with a piece of wood under it and balance it with my hands as i bring it down slowly. Coming back up you have to tilt the engine more forward to fit into it's collars but I only had my wife give me a hand this time and the last two times was by myself. If I had to do this more often I'd definitely get a dedicated engine lift (or make one).
 

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Discussion Starter #73
Engine and carbs and such all connected up, water is in for now and oil will be added in the morning for her first start. Run for a lil while, drain the oil and water, and put new stuff in. Probably do a few water flushes before finishing with my coolant. In the mean time I threw on my R&G exhaust sliders. Engine/frame sliders/mod should be done after Some run time.
 

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Discussion Starter #74
This bike has really seen some better days, now i need to replace the mechanical seals inside the water pump because that's now leaking. Had it running and everything and now this. Honestly I cant think of anything else that can possibly go wrong now
 

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Discussion Starter #76
Finished assembling the waterpump and new gaskets. Triple cleaned the mechanical seals I bought and used Threebond to add to the new outer gaskets. If this leaks I honestly dont have a clues what to do, but I'm very confident.

Question for anyone who is around - I cant find a specific cure time for 1184 threebond, but I've heard an hour and I've heard 24. Cant find a reference, should I just play it safe and wait to ride till tomorrow? Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #79
Okay so i started it and no leaks from the case BUT IT IS STILL LEAKING FROM THE WEEP HOLE.

I ran it for 30-45min and it didnt get any better. New housing, new seals again, etc and still leaks. Im at a loss. It's ONLY through the weep hole and I cant fathom why. I'm going to pull it again tonight and look. I'll flip the ceramic piece, sand both sides a bit with 1200, clean with alcohol again, install to torque with a slight amount of coolant on it to prevent dry-start and go from there. I'm pissed. I'm riding tomorrow regardless. Im so done with this pump.

- if anyone has any suggestions let me know
 
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