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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey guys.

Here is how my bike currently sits:

2014 ZX6R: Full Rapid Bike self tuning system with O2 bung welded into mid pipe for the wideband sensor, M4 GP Slip on, servo buddy, Driven racing block off plates, Zero Gravity black windscreen, Yoshimura frame sliders, Carbon Fiber foot guards, 6k HID's, black Pro-Grip tank pad, Black/Green Ninja sock, rear passenger pegs removed. The suspension has been adjusted for my weight and height by cycle pro in Orlando, same place the Rapid Bike was installed. Also have black spiked bar ends being shipped this week.

I realize im not utilizing the Rapid Bike system to its full potential with just a slip on. The slip on is just temporary until i can do some more research and find what exhaust system and air filter i want to go with. The bike runs EXTREMELY smooth with the Rapid Bike system and im glad i did it over a power commander or bazzaz. Knowing I can do any mod and be in any weather condition and the bike will tune itself is awesome!!

Some pics:
 
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That's an awesome bike!
 
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Discussion Starter #7
thanks for the comments everyone...this bike is awesome and im hoping to keep it for a very long time!
 

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I'm interested in hearing more about this Rapid Bike piggy back ECU. I just read through their site. Have you ever used Bazzaz or Power Commander before? If so, can you compare Rapid Bike to the other two? (Assuming you hook up your laptop to the Rapid Bike and make changes and whatnot)
 
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I'm interested in hearing more about this Rapid Bike piggy back ECU. I just read through their site. Have you ever used Bazzaz or Power Commander before? If so, can you compare Rapid Bike to the other two? (Assuming you hook up your laptop to the Rapid Bike and make changes and whatnot)
Me too, me too!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I'm interested in hearing more about this Rapid Bike piggy back ECU. I just read through their site. Have you ever used Bazzaz or Power Commander before? If so, can you compare Rapid Bike to the other two? (Assuming you hook up your laptop to the Rapid Bike and make changes and whatnot)
I've never had a PCV or bazzaz but did have an EJK on my previous FZ-09 which is similar to the PCV.

The main benefit to the Rapid Bike is obviously the self tuning feature...doesnt require dyno tuning or downloading any maps to tune the air/fuel ratio to optimal levels for any mod i put on it and any weather condition or altitude...all i have to do is bring it to Cycle Pro once i put the new mod on..they hook it up the lap top just to double check the computer is making the necessary adjustments...maybe tweak a few numbers if necessary..and thats it..no charge for hooking it up to the lap top.

Other benefits would be that it hooks up to all 8 fuel injectors out of the box..with the PCV you need to buy a separate system to hook into the other 4 injectors..i believe the bazzaz hooks into all 8 out of the box also though

Its also quick shift enabled..the PCV is as well BUT if you want all the features the Rapid Bike gives with the PCV..you need 4 separate modules throughout your bike...the PCV..auto tune..secondary fuel injector plugs...then quick shift module...Rapid Bike you just need the separate quick shift module thats it...if you do all that with the PCV its also going to be more expensive than the Rapid Bike system..with the autotune feature on the PCV...from what ive been told..you still need to dyno tune..dont know if thats completely correct though

Right off the bat after it was installed i just noticed the bike was SUPER smooth throughout the entire rev range..i didnt notice any big power gains but that was expected as i dont have any mods that would take advantage of the Rapid Bike features right now
 

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Interesting. Thanks for the info. How much does Rapid Bike run? I'm honestly thinking about going with something that will auto-tune versus data-logging. I like the fact I can data-log, but here in Oklahoma, pressures, temperatures, etc... change by the minute and unless you are on the dyno, there's no way to get a value for every cell.

Do you have to take it to the dealer to hook it up to their laptop or can you download the program, like PC and Bazzaz, to connect with your own? I read through their website a couple days ago, but can't remember. If you can, I'd get that program and start playing with it yourself.

From what I have read, the 2013+ bikes like a 12.5afr across the board.
 

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Nice bike man! I'm running the full m4 system, love the sound! and it has the o2 spot built into the pipe. Where did you get those carbon fiber foot guards?! those are sick
 

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Probably not the right place to post, but anyway, I've been told that auto-tune is generally for track use, whereby they already have the ready setting for a specific track and load it into the PC5 / Bazzaz / etc and the auto-tune fine tunes it, being a track, the bike will be ridden in a constant manner, so this allows the auto-tune to do it's work.

However, if auto-tune is installed, and bike is used for street, the auto-tune will end up constantly adjusting and never fine tuning the setting, because on the street you are sometimes fast, sometimes slow, stopped, idling, different weather condition, etc.

This was what I was told by the technician who does the PC5 tuning in my area, that's why he didn't recommend having the auto-tune, just PC5.

I didn't get any of this tuning stuff though. Was just asking around, and I find his explanation logical. Initially I had the same thought that auto-tune will do all the work to tune the bike tip-top, but after he explained how it works, I think I have to agree with it. The key word is auto "fine" tuning the bike from a base setting, and it can't fine tune the setting if the bike is not ridden at the constant level, like running laps at the track.

Please correct me if I am mistaken in any way. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Interesting. Thanks for the info. How much does Rapid Bike run? I'm honestly thinking about going with something that will auto-tune versus data-logging. I like the fact I can data-log, but here in Oklahoma, pressures, temperatures, etc... change by the minute and unless you are on the dyno, there's no way to get a value for every cell.

Do you have to take it to the dealer to hook it up to their laptop or can you download the program, like PC and Bazzaz, to connect with your own? I read through their website a couple days ago, but can't remember. If you can, I'd get that program and start playing with it yourself.

From what I have read, the 2013+ bikes like a 12.5afr across the board.
no problem! I dont remember the actual cost for just the Rapid Bike parts but i payed around 1250 for everything including labor, a wideband O2 sensor, and having to weld an O2 sensor bung in my mid pipe..the fact that our bikes dont have O2 sensors drove the price up a bit. We priced all the PCV components I would need to equal what the Rapid Bike gives you and it was a couple hundred more plus the PCV wont constantly tune the bike even with the autotune feature

I have to take it to Cycle Pro anytime I want to look at the value's since they have the master program...but you really dont have to take it to them often at all...Ive only had the system installed for a couple weeks..Your supposed to do about 200 miles on the bike then take it back to them just so they can check that the system is doing what its supposed to..i took it back to them yesterday and everything was in order and the system was adjusting the afr exactly as they set for each gear and rpm..each gear has its own specific fuel map and the system will either add or take away fuel to get the afr they set..in my case they set the afr to be 13.2 so the system will do what it has to to always have that afr..no matter the mod or weather/altitude.

Nice bike man! I'm running the full m4 system, love the sound! and it has the o2 spot built into the pipe. Where did you get those carbon fiber foot guards?! those are sick
Thanks man! and Thats good to hear cause ive been thinking about the full m4 system..love the looks and the fact that it comes with an O2 bung already built in helps a lot..do you have a vid you can post so i can hear it?? and I think i got them on ebay..i just typed in carbon fiber foot guards and those came up..pretty decent quality and they were around 45 bucks..def. get them if you can really look good on the bike

Probably not the right place to post, but anyway, I've been told that auto-tune is generally for track use, whereby they already have the ready setting for a specific track and load it into the PC5 / Bazzaz / etc and the auto-tune fine tunes it, being a track, the bike will be ridden in a constant manner, so this allows the auto-tune to do it's work.

However, if auto-tune is installed, and bike is used for street, the auto-tune will end up constantly adjusting and never fine tuning the setting, because on the street you are sometimes fast, sometimes slow, stopped, idling, different weather condition, etc.

This was what I was told by the technician who does the PC5 tuning in my area, that's why he didn't recommend having the auto-tune, just PC5.

I didn't get any of this tuning stuff though. Was just asking around, and I find his explanation logical. Initially I had the same thought that auto-tune will do all the work to tune the bike tip-top, but after he explained how it works, I think I have to agree with it. The key word is auto "fine" tuning the bike from a base setting, and it can't fine tune the setting if the bike is not ridden at the constant level, like running laps at the track.

Please correct me if I am mistaken in any way. :)
Im not really sure how the PCV auto tune works...but the way Rapid Bike was explained to me was its more of an adaptive tuning system than an auto tuning system...The tech programs a certain afr that he wants the bike to constantly run at...then the system will either add or take away fuel in each gear and at each rpm within each gear..i believe its either 250 or 500 rpm intervals...to reach that afr...so no matter the mod or weather/altitude condition...aside from the extremes like turbo and nitrous...the Rapid Bike system will adjust to reach that set afr....which is why IMO..its perfect for the street cause like you said..your constantly changing your speed on the street and are never constant like at a track
 

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Im not really sure how the PCV auto tune works...but the way Rapid Bike was explained to me was its more of an adaptive tuning system than an auto tuning system...The tech programs a certain afr that he wants the bike to constantly run at...then the system will either add or take away fuel in each gear and at each rpm within each gear..i believe its either 250 or 500 rpm intervals...to reach that afr...so no matter the mod or weather/altitude condition...aside from the extremes like turbo and nitrous...the Rapid Bike system will adjust to reach that set afr....which is why IMO..its perfect for the street cause like you said..your constantly changing your speed on the street and are never constant like at a track
Cool.
 

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Whew, $1250? Man that's alot of coin for a piggy-back ECU setup. Not dogging you at all, but wow. I got my entire Bazzaz setup for around $500-$600.

I think the auto-tune would work best on the street. Since they are driven on the streets and different times, temp, pressure, etc..., the system would be able to tune it to the set AFR at that given time. I guess it's all on how you look at it.

13.2 seems awfully high for our bikes. The 2013+ bikes like to run a little rich, maybe the shop you go to doesn't know that. I've ran 13.5 AFR, which is what came with the bike. I have a Map Switch Selector so I can switch between 2 maps right off my clip-ons. I had Map 1 with the map that came on it which was 13.5 AFR and then ran a 12.8 AFR. I was cruising around on the 1st map at a constant throttle, then switched to Map 2 and the bike started gaining speed. I switched it back over to Map 1 and it stopped accelerating. I did a couple other test with just a little more throttle and the bike definitely liked the richer tune.

When you go to your shop, I'd talk to them about running a 12.5 - 12.8 AFR. Evil Twin on this site use to work for Bazzaz and he is the one that told me to go down to 12.5 AFR and that these year model bikes like to run rich. Lower the number, more fuel is being sprayed in
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Looks good.. are your HID's both on ask the time?
Thanks! and yeah i keep both on at the same time.


Whew, $1250? Man that's alot of coin for a piggy-back ECU setup. Not dogging you at all, but wow. I got my entire Bazzaz setup for around $500-$600.

I think the auto-tune would work best on the street. Since they are driven on the streets and different times, temp, pressure, etc..., the system would be able to tune it to the set AFR at that given time. I guess it's all on how you look at it.

13.2 seems awfully high for our bikes. The 2013+ bikes like to run a little rich, maybe the shop you go to doesn't know that. I've ran 13.5 AFR, which is what came with the bike. I have a Map Switch Selector so I can switch between 2 maps right off my clip-ons. I had Map 1 with the map that came on it which was 13.5 AFR and then ran a 12.8 AFR. I was cruising around on the 1st map at a constant throttle, then switched to Map 2 and the bike started gaining speed. I switched it back over to Map 1 and it stopped accelerating. I did a couple other test with just a little more throttle and the bike definitely liked the richer tune.

When you go to your shop, I'd talk to them about running a 12.5 - 12.8 AFR. Evil Twin on this site use to work for Bazzaz and he is the one that told me to go down to 12.5 AFR and that these year model bikes like to run rich. Lower the number, more fuel is being sprayed in
yeah the main reason the price was so high was due to having to buy the wideband, and the labor for having to take the exhaust off and weld an O2 bung into the midpipe...ive had friends with yamaha's and suzuki's get quoted at 700-800 bucks for everything since their bikes already have O2 sensors..plus you have to take into account the money i save from having to dyno tune a PCV..around here they charge 250 bucks for dyno tuning

Ill talk to them about the afr being set lower next time i go..ive read that low 13's is optimal for the bike but im sure a little more fuel would help increase power...when i dyno'd the bike before i had any of this done..just had a slip on..at some 1/4 and 1/2 throttle points the bike got to the low 16's in afr which is dangerously high..granted i didnt have the block off plates either so air was being injected into the exhaust but im sure the bike was still running pretty lean
 
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