Kawasaki Ninja ZX-6R Forum banner

41 - 60 of 73 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,488 Posts
Discussion Starter #41 (Edited)
You have to have a difference of potential to get the current to flow. If both sides are at 12V, no current. When one is 12 and the other zero, current flow.

Pin 18 may be pulled 'low' by the ECU.... the active signal from the ECU may be grounding that pin.

Pin 17 -20 (Normally Open) on the relay side should read infinite Ohms, with no power applied, and should then read nearly zero Ohms when that difference of potential is applied between pins 18 and 19.
I know very little about electric circuits, it's the first time i come across this stuff.Anyway, i test what you tell me to and i hope there is a result.
I did measure the relay 18,19 did have a small resistance and 17,20 infinite.When i run cables from the battery to 18,19, i heard a "click" and 17,20 had no resistance anymore.

You have a reading on the cluster?
Some older models have two, one for the cluster, don't know if yours does or not.
The second is a switch that closes once a set temperature is met.


You have a reading, what is it.
Put one lead on the battery negative the other on 18, then 19. What do you get.
IF nothing. Put one lead (of the meter) on the positive post of the battery. Repeat readings on 18 and 19. What do you get.


Repeat voltage check from above on both sides 17 and 20. What do you get.

I don't have your schematics of your model. Print them out to a PDF and attach them to a post.
Want to trace the circuit from the fan back.
I don't know what schematics you want, i found this, is that it?


My bike is a '09, i think it only has one temp sensor.

Multimeter out and testing
ignition switch off
meter at pin 17 and negative reads 12.1V
meter at pin 18 and positive reads 12.1V
meter at pin 19 and positive reads 11.4V

ignition switch on
meter at pin 17 and negative reads 11.8V
meter at pin 18 and negative reads 11.7V
meter at pin 19 and positive reads 11.2V

Battery is 12.1V

pin 20 had no reading whatever i did...

I haven't got the time to warm it up, i can try within the week.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
13,999 Posts
So at this point, we are pretty sure the relay works, the fan works, and the temp sensor is operational.

Now we need to make sure that the wires that are supposed to be sending signals and power where it should be, are.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,920 Posts
I have temp reading so i suppose that the sensor is ok.
I tested the relay and it is working.

But i got confused when i turned the key of the ignition...
I measured the pins of the relay connector that activate the relay(18,19) and i had a reading!!! I thought that there shouldn't be a reading until the ECU sends a signal.
Bike was cold, so i was expecting not to have a reading until it got hot.
On the other hand, 17,20 had nothing.
I know very little about electric circuits, it's the first time i come across this stuff.Anyway, i test what you tell me to and i hope there is a result.
I did measure the relay 18,19 did have a small resistance and 17,20 infinite.When i run cables from the battery to 18,19, i heard a "click" and 17,20 had no resistance anymore.



I don't know what schematics you want, i found this, is that it?


My bike is a '09, i think it only has one temp sensor.

Multimeter out and testing
ignition switch off
meter at pin 17 and negative reads 12.1V
meter at pin 18 and positive reads 12.1V
meter at pin 19 and positive reads 11.4V

ignition switch on
meter at pin 17 and negative reads 11.8V
meter at pin 18 and negative reads 11.7V
meter at pin 19 and positive reads 11.2V

Battery is 12.1V

pin 20 had no reading whatever i did...

I haven't got the time to warm it up, i can try within the week.
The prints work, SO. 18, 19 one goes to fuse then ignition. The other ECU which would have to provide ground. Can't see clearly enough to tell which was which, but your statement.
When i run cables from the battery to 18,19, i heard a "click" and 17,20 had no resistance anymore.
Says you can pull the relay in, and the pads are OK 17, 20.

But the measurment next mess me up.
Ignition off.
meter at pin 18 and positive reads 12.1V
meter at pin 19 and positive reads 11.4V
Since it says one goes to ignition switch, really surprised you have power to relay.
Guessing 18 goes to power.
IF 19 goes to ecu and should be open, to positive I would expect it to be zero volts unless the ecu is calling for the relay to be energized with ignition off, should be open to ground.

With ignition on you get
meter at pin 18 and negative reads 11.7V
meter at pin 19 and positive reads 11.2V
Basically same as above. Very ODD.

If you measure across 17 to 20 on voltage, You will have battery voltage with relay open.
Zero voltage when it closes.

As RJ2112 need to confirm wires ok to and from relay.
Something isn't making sense. It's late. I'll read this again before the adult beverages are being served.
Not sure what I'm missing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,232 Posts
Looks great,, fan would have to be well the fan is bad or the sender.
Assuming there is power going to it.

There's also the possibility that the fan has been pressed into the radiator and can't spin. This happened to my 09 despite the fact that it was never crashed. Just took the fan off, "bent" it back and presto chango it was fine again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,920 Posts
There's also the possibility that the fan has been pressed into the radiator and can't spin. This happened to my 09 despite the fact that it was never crashed. Just took the fan off, "bent" it back and presto chango it was fine again.
Good point, many have found a small rock to bind the fan, causing it to burn out.

Thought the OP said the fan would work if provided power.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,488 Posts
Discussion Starter #46
It's been quite cold and i was using the bike to commute around the area i live in, so it didn't have the time to warm up.
Since the summer is almost here, i got the multimeter out and did some testing. I think i understand how it works and i think the diagram in the service manual is plain confusing.

So...

This is the radiator fan plug.
I tested the Black-yellow wire for continuity with the frame( rear shock) and it was fine, so i have ground
The blue-white wire goes to the relay, checked for continuity and is also fine (according to the previous diagrams PIN 17)


The Blue-black wire coming out from the relay goes to the fuse box (tested ok) (according to the previous diagrams PIN 20)

Then i checked that completely white wire (which i think shouldn't be white) and it has continuity with the engine temp sensor plug


Which is also a blue-white wire


And considering the voltage checks i did the other day, when i turn on the ignition :
meter at pin 18 and negative reads 11.7V
meter at pin 19 and positive reads 11.2V

So, the relay closes the circuit when i turn the key on the ignition.
And by following the wiring, the temp sensor sends voltage through the fuse, relay and the fan.

I have a second hand temp sensor/switch from my old 636, (the part number is the same).I'm going to switch them and see if anything happens.

I'm still wondering what the ECU has to do with all this and why the service manual has it connected to the sensor.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13,999 Posts
The temp sensor is measured by the ECU.... when conditions warrant, the ECU will probably ground the end of the circuit attached to the coil of the relay, so current flows from the positive potential to the grounded point. Current flow through the coil of the relay makes the contacts switch states, from normally open, to normally closed.

The remote control power for the fan motor should flow from the battery to the Common pin, and when the contacts are switched, along the path connected to the 'normally open' pin of the relay.... from there, it should go to the positive terminal on the fan motor.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,488 Posts
Discussion Starter #48
The temp sensor is measured by the ECU.... when conditions warrant, the ECU will probably ground the end of the circuit attached to the coil of the relay, so current flows from the positive potential to the grounded point. Current flow through the coil of the relay makes the contacts switch states, from normally open, to normally closed.

The remote control power for the fan motor should flow from the battery to the Common pin, and when the contacts are switched, along the path connected to the 'normally open' pin of the relay.... from there, it should go to the positive terminal on the fan motor.
This is how it is "supposed" to work. But after tracing the wires, is seems to work otherwise.

Current flow through the coil of the relay is there all the time since i turn the ignition key to ON position.
And the power for the fan seems to flow from sensor -> fuse -> relay -> fan

Anyway, i'm switching the sensor, can't seem to have any ideas atm.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
75 Posts
^ MrZ, 106 C sounds about right. That's 223 F. I say that because I was doing my oil change after riding the bike and I saw the temp at 220 F and the fan was still off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Parts list

Hey man I was wondering if you can upload a list of the parts needed to use the 2013 fairings please? :smile
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,488 Posts
Discussion Starter #52

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,488 Posts
Discussion Starter #54
It's been a while since i've done anything to the bike. I mostly commute around, if it wasn't summer, it may not even get to working temp. I washed it today, it must have been months...lol

So recently, i rolled down from the sidewalk and i hear something metal hitting the ground. It was my frame slider!! :dowhat :nervous: :eek:



I'm glad that i didn't lose that while riding, but it was quite a surprise and a very unexpecting thing to happen.

I drilled a hole in there and tried some tools i borrowed from friends but with no luck.




I loosened all the other engine mounts and tried moving the engine forward because the bolt seems not to be centered and it was touching the frame.
And that was the reason it was a bitch to get out. For some reason the bolt was bent. It was against one side of the frame all this time and along with the weight of the engine, the vibration, the road bumps etc...it broke. The odd thing is, my frame slider has no damage and i can't recall hitting or droping the bike on its' left side.

I got the bolt out with hammering an allen tool inside the hole i drilled.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,488 Posts
Discussion Starter #55
And to reach one of the rear engine mounts to loosen it, i had to take out of the way my rear brake fluid res. And here lies my next surprise.

What i see everyday (fluid level is fine, bike is on sidestand)



And what it looks like from the other side :eek: :dowhat



It's yellow from the engine temps around there? Other 09-12 bikes have the same thing happening?
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,920 Posts
The frame bolt, would think it had taken a hit before you owned the bike. Blue loctite would be good.
Better would be a frame slider using two or more points of contact, spreading the hit to several frame points. Single mount mount sliders can and do ripe the ONE frame mounting point to being worthless. Causing more damage than if nothing was installed.

The reservoir on my 06 looks better. Did the sun hit it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,488 Posts
Discussion Starter #57
The frame bolt, would think it had taken a hit before you owned the bike. Blue loctite would be good.
Better would be a frame slider using two or more points of contact, spreading the hit to several frame points. Single mount mount sliders can and do ripe the ONE frame mounting point to being worthless. Causing more damage than if nothing was installed.
Like i've mentioned in other posts, i get through some very tight spaces while filtering stopped traffic. I have to close my mirrors and thinking about removing my bar-ends, exhaust nearly touches sometimes. (undertail '06 was heaven :lol: ). Multi mount would stick out too much. So...no...these, or nothing.

The reservoir on my 06 looks better. Did the sun hit it?
In the first pic you see what the sun hits, the black plastic cover-mount and only through the small window the fluid res.
It must be from the engine temps... But i find it unacceptable....It was like this from factory, this shouldn't happen.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,488 Posts
Discussion Starter #59
Would be real tempted to go without.
I bet the exact moment i will take them off and take a step back to see how the bike looks without them, it is going to fall on its' side. :laugh

I'm almost certain that is going to happen....

Like my first bike that fell on its' side the day before the frame sliders arrived in mail.
I don't remember it falling down ever since.
 
41 - 60 of 73 Posts
Top