I know very little about electric circuits, it's the first time i come across this stuff.Anyway, i test what you tell me to and i hope there is a result.You have to have a difference of potential to get the current to flow. If both sides are at 12V, no current. When one is 12 and the other zero, current flow.
Pin 18 may be pulled 'low' by the ECU.... the active signal from the ECU may be grounding that pin.
Pin 17 -20 (Normally Open) on the relay side should read infinite Ohms, with no power applied, and should then read nearly zero Ohms when that difference of potential is applied between pins 18 and 19.
I did measure the relay 18,19 did have a small resistance and 17,20 infinite.When i run cables from the battery to 18,19, i heard a "click" and 17,20 had no resistance anymore.
I don't know what schematics you want, i found this, is that it?You have a reading on the cluster?
Some older models have two, one for the cluster, don't know if yours does or not.
The second is a switch that closes once a set temperature is met.
You have a reading, what is it.
Put one lead on the battery negative the other on 18, then 19. What do you get.
IF nothing. Put one lead (of the meter) on the positive post of the battery. Repeat readings on 18 and 19. What do you get.
Repeat voltage check from above on both sides 17 and 20. What do you get.
I don't have your schematics of your model. Print them out to a PDF and attach them to a post.
Want to trace the circuit from the fan back.
My bike is a '09, i think it only has one temp sensor.
Multimeter out and testing
ignition switch off
meter at pin 17 and negative reads 12.1V
meter at pin 18 and positive reads 12.1V
meter at pin 19 and positive reads 11.4V
ignition switch on
meter at pin 17 and negative reads 11.8V
meter at pin 18 and negative reads 11.7V
meter at pin 19 and positive reads 11.2V
Battery is 12.1V
pin 20 had no reading whatever i did...
I haven't got the time to warm it up, i can try within the week.
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