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At least you are still dealing with your own bike, that you are fully aware of its history (compared to the risks of buying a different used bike).
Looks great, you've obviously put in a lot of hard work, the results look stunning! The Red/Black custom look, with alot of attitude.

Plus having the knowledge to break down the bike extensively is obviously a big bonus, as you've been able to then re-assemble exactly how you'd like it / with all the new parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
At least you are still dealing with your own bike, that you are fully aware of its history (compared to the risks of buying a different used bike).
Looks great, you've obviously put in a lot of hard work, the results look stunning! The Red/Black custom look, with alot of attitude..
Well, if you know most common things that get damaged when a bike falls and usual stuff people screw up and don't notice, you can spot a good bike. Although, yes having your own bike with known history is a plus.

Plus having the knowledge to break down the bike extensively is obviously a big bonus, as you've been able to then re-assemble exactly how you'd like it / with all the new parts.
It was my first time reassembling a whole bike, it's not a big deal. If you have all the tools needed, you only need basic skills. 99% of the process is screwing bolts... And if you forget anything, there's the service manual!!
 

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But what you find simple to re-build, might infact be a major challenge for the next individual. ;)

I'd like to remove the rear end of mine, to do some work on the suspension, plus new swingarm etc, but I wouldn't even know how best to "support" the bike up, to do this work (if those components are coming off). Suppose you'd need a Jack under the frame somewhere (so the tail is free, for dismantling).
 

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But what you find simple to re-build, might infact be a major challenge for the next individual. ;)

I'd like to remove the rear end of mine, to do some work on the suspension, plus new swingarm etc, but I wouldn't even know how best to "support" the bike up, to do this work (if those components are coming off). Suppose you'd need a Jack under the frame somewhere (so the tail is free, for dismantling).
Yep, pretty simple actually. I always use 2 jack stands, one under each foot peg (assuming you don't have folding pegs...if not, you'll have to find another spot). That frees up the whole rear end so you can take your shock off, swing arm, or whatever else you want.
 

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Yep, pretty simple actually. I always use 2 jack stands, one under each foot peg (assuming you don't have folding pegs...if not, you'll have to find another spot). That frees up the whole rear end so you can take your shock off, swing arm, or whatever else you want.
Great tip! I have jack stands.

I think the foot pegs do fold, but should still be a location where the Pegs secure, to support the bike up each side....... will investigate further. :)

Will source all the bits I want, so I'd only need to jack up the bike + strip the rear down just the once, rather than a couple of operations to get all the work done. Plus fairing would likely come off, to service the bike while its off the road too.
 

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Great tip! I have jack stands.

I think the foot pegs do fold, but should still be a location where the Pegs secure, to support the bike up each side....... will investigate further. :)

Will source all the bits I want, so I'd only need to jack up the bike + strip the rear down just the once, rather than a couple of operations to get all the work done. Plus fairing would likely come off, to service the bike while its off the road too.
I just use the rear stand to basically lower the bike on the jack stands. I set the bike up on the stands, and put the jacks under each bike like I said as far up as I can, so that there's barely any space between the pegs and the jacks. Then I take the rear stand off, and as I do that the bike lowers on the jacks, and voila! :)
 

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I just use the rear stand to basically lower the bike on the jack stands. I set the bike up on the stands, and put the jacks under each bike like I said as far up as I can, so that there's barely any space between the pegs and the jacks. Then I take the rear stand off, and as I do that the bike lowers on the jacks, and voila! :)
Nicely done. Will defo be using this technique. Thanks for the guidance. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #28
So...i was checking the service manual and noticed that....i have almost 22.000km and last time i changed my spark plugs was...never!!! :dowhat
So another night with my flashlight :laugh


Old vs new


And after some heavy rain, i lift my bike cover to see this!!!!Anyone came across this sight before??My brake lines turned gray! :dowhat :O :eek:




It's only the cover of the brake line, but if it doesn't change colour back to black, i'll have to get some new ones.
 

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Hey, would you happen to know if you're able front fairing and headlight of the 2013 onto the 2009 without swapping the side fairings? I might be doing this fairing swap in the next month and I was just curious if I could get away with just the front. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Hey, would you happen to know if you're able front fairing and headlight of the 2013 onto the 2009 without swapping the side fairings? I might be doing this fairing swap in the next month and I was just curious if I could get away with just the front. Thanks
I didn't try that, so i don't know if the nose(13+) fits to the side fairings(9-12).
But...
13+ nose and headlight need the 13+ ram air and gauge bracket, headlight fits different bulbs, so you have to alter your wiring harness or make adapters like i did. And there is also 1 piece of plastic under the nose of the 9-12 that connects to 2 others, inner of side fairings.While the 13+ doesn't have this. Inner plastics of side fairings meet eachother under the nose fairing.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
First ever throttle body sync, at 23.000km (manual says every 10.000 duh!)

How i started



How i left it at



Bike got way too hot (and fan wouldn't kick in...wonder why)
So i had to shut it off and couldn't leave it in parts. It's way better than before anyway.
Planning on a coolant change, maybe tomorrow.
 

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Looks great,, fan would have to be well the fan is bad or the sender.
Assuming there is power going to it.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Coolant change today

Old coolant :eek: vs fresh :BigGrin





Looks great,, fan would have to be well the fan is bad or the sender.
Assuming there is power going to it.
I'm going to check the fan within the following week.(I have to take the airbox out...again!!!^@^%[email protected]*) I already checked the fan fuse and it was fine.
According to the service manual, there is a relay for the fan, but it is hidden in a relay box(?) and i'm not sure if i can check this.
And the temp sensor goes straight to the ECU.So i assume there is one sensor for gauge reading and fan.Since my reading is fine, i assume the sensor is too.
We'll see...
 

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Coolant change today

Old coolant :eek: vs fresh :BigGrin







I'm going to check the fan within the following week.(I have to take the airbox out...again!!!^@^%[email protected]*) I already checked the fan fuse and it was fine.
According to the service manual, there is a relay for the fan, but it is hidden in a relay box(?) and i'm not sure if i can check this.
And the temp sensor goes straight to the ECU. So i assume there is one sensor for gauge reading and fan.Since my reading is fine, i assume the sensor is too.
We'll see...
Glad you swapped the coolant... that looks like it was well past it's prime.

I would try and power the fan directly, to make sure you chase the right issue..... many fans fail when they get jammed; a very few have a fuse that recovers. Most don't, and rely on the fuse in the box to protect the wiring.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Glad you swapped the coolant... that looks like it was well past it's prime.

I would try and power the fan directly, to make sure you chase the right issue..... many fans fail when they get jammed; a very few have a fuse that recovers. Most don't, and rely on the fuse in the box to protect the wiring.
Tested the fan...working.
Fuse ok.

Now what? :O
 

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Tested the fan...working.
Fuse ok.

Now what? :O
There should only be a few other components.... the temp sensor which indicates the temp to the ECU, then the ECU, which commands the relay that provides power to the fan. The loop has to be complete for both the control line, and for the power. That means the wiring all has to be intact, and making good electrical contact where it is meant to.

If the fan will run directly, that's obviously not the fault.
If you have a temp reading on your instrument display, the temp sensor should be okay.

That leaves the ECU, the relay, or the wiring.

If you have a meter, you can check to see the ECU is sending the right signal to the relay.... since that's the most expensive part that seems like something we should eliminate as soon as possible. :bigthumb:

If the voltage on the pin on the ECU that is meant to activate the relay changes as it should when the motor gets up to temp, the relay is likely not using that signal as it is meant to. you need to make sure that the voltage gets all the way to the coil of the relay and that the other side of the relay's coil is getting back to the battery.

A relay is a very simple electric motor -- when you apply power across the coil, the armature moves from the Normally Closed pin, to the Normally Open. Power from the battery is supposed to be constantly present on the Common pin, and goes whichever way the armature sends it.

You can also check the relay's action, by applying 12VDC to the coil pin and checking to hear the 'click'.

You can also use your meter to Ohm between the 'C' and 'NO' pins -- that should be wide open (infinite) with no power applied. The opposite should be true if you measure between the 'C' and the 'NC'..... that should be a dead short, and go open when you apply power.

It is not all that uncommon for relays to eventually wear out and fail.... but I would just as readily expect that there is a corroded contact which is preventing everything from working.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
There should only be a few other components.... the temp sensor which indicates the temp to the ECU, then the ECU, which commands the relay that provides power to the fan. The loop has to be complete for both the control line, and for the power. That means the wiring all has to be intact, and making good electrical contact where it is meant to.

If the fan will run directly, that's obviously not the fault.
If you have a temp reading on your instrument display, the temp sensor should be okay.

That leaves the ECU, the relay, or the wiring.

If you have a meter, you can check to see the ECU is sending the right signal to the relay.... since that's the most expensive part that seems like something we should eliminate as soon as possible. :bigthumb:

If the voltage on the pin on the ECU that is meant to activate the relay changes as it should when the motor gets up to temp, the relay is likely not using that signal as it is meant to. you need to make sure that the voltage gets all the way to the coil of the relay and that the other side of the relay's coil is getting back to the battery.

A relay is a very simple electric motor -- when you apply power across the coil, the armature moves from the Normally Closed pin, to the Normally Open. Power from the battery is supposed to be constantly present on the Common pin, and goes whichever way the armature sends it.

You can also check the relay's action, by applying 12VDC to the coil pin and checking to hear the 'click'.

You can also use your meter to Ohm between the 'C' and 'NO' pins -- that should be wide open (infinite) with no power applied. The opposite should be true if you measure between the 'C' and the 'NC'..... that should be a dead short, and go open when you apply power.

It is not all that uncommon for relays to eventually wear out and fail.... but I would just as readily expect that there is a corroded contact which is preventing everything from working.

I have temp reading so i suppose that the sensor is ok.
I tested the relay and it is working.

But i got confused when i turned the key of the ignition...
I measured the pins of the relay connector that activate the relay(18,19) and i had a reading!!! I thought that there shouldn't be a reading until the ECU sends a signal.
Bike was cold, so i was expecting not to have a reading until it got hot.
On the other hand, 17,20 had nothing.


I thought it would be easy and i also thought that i understood how the circuit worked.
Now i am lost...
 

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You have to have a difference of potential to get the current to flow. If both sides are at 12V, no current. When one is 12 and the other zero, current flow.

Pin 18 may be pulled 'low' by the ECU.... the active signal from the ECU may be grounding that pin.

Pin 17 -20 (Normally Open) on the relay side should read infinite Ohms, with no power applied, and should then read nearly zero Ohms when that difference of potential is applied between pins 18 and 19.
 

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I have temp reading so i suppose that the sensor is ok.
I tested the relay and it is working.
You have a reading on the cluster?
Some older models have two, one for the cluster, don't know if yours does or not.
The second is a switch that closes once a set temperature is met.

But i got confused when i turned the key of the ignition...
I measured the pins of the relay connector that activate the relay(18,19) and i had a reading!!! I thought that there shouldn't be a reading until the ECU sends a signal.
You have a reading, what is it.
Put one lead on the battery negative the other on 18, then 19. What do you get.
IF nothing. Put one lead (of the meter) on the positive post of the battery. Repeat readings on 18 and 19. What do you get.

Bike was cold, so i was expecting not to have a reading until it got hot.
On the other hand, 17,20 had nothing.
Repeat voltage check from above on both sides 17 and 20. What do you get.

I don't have your schematics of your model. Print them out to a PDF and attach them to a post.
Want to trace the circuit from the fan back.
 
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