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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey guys,

I am the proud owner of a 2013 636. I got it 3 weeks ago and am nearing the 600 mile mark. I wanna give her nothing but the best and wanna run motul 300v starting at 600 miles with a k&n filter.

I have seen some other threads where one or two people comment on using motul 300v so early on, some negative and some positive. So I wanted to get feedback on the subject and wanted to know if it will harm the bike at all... Thanks in advance guys.
 

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Believe it or not there have been studies that have shown that motors are still being broke in gaining compression and VE even after 5k miles I have always ran a dino oil or a syn blended oil for the first 5-7k miles just for that reason to finish the break in!

But its personal opinion you ask 10 people you get 10 different answers!

In my own personal bike which I intend to keep until death lol I have been running Castrol actevo in it later on I will switch to a full synthetic but after 5-7k miles!
 

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Honestly man you can get automobile oil that is just as good as the motul oil for alot cheaper. They just put a big price tag on oils cause it's for "motorcycle" alot of guys run rotella t6
 

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Honestly man you can get automobile oil that is just as good as the motul oil for alot cheaper. They just put a big price tag on oils cause it's for "motorcycle" alot of guys run rotella t6
Noooooooooo! Do NOT get automobile oil. Not all oils are wet-clutch safe. It will cause the friction plates to slip and ultimately require friction plate replacement over time. Jesus christ, where do you people get your information from?
 

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From first oil change I used Kawasaki dino oil. Last oil change at 10k I used this... Kawasaki semi synth. Bike shifts a lot smoother and runs cooler as far as I can tell... $8/quart

 

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Motul 300v 10w 40 all the way. My bike runs great with this oil. Just my two cents.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for all the input guys... I would never use an automobile oil in my bike... I guess I will consider running regular kawasaki 10w40 for a while... Has anyone ran full synthetic from the beginning?
 

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Noooooooooo! Do NOT get automobile oil. Not all oils are wet-clutch safe. It will cause the friction plates to slip and ultimately require friction plate replacement over time. Jesus christ, where do you people get your information from?
Alot of guys use rotella t6, which is for automobile, and have never had a problem
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Alot of guys use rotella t6, which is for automobile, and have never had a problem
I think rotella is really the only exception. A lot of guys do use it and recommend it... But other than that, I wouldn't even consider any automobile oil, especially one that isn't wet clutch compatible, would you?
 

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I think rotella is really the only exception. A lot of guys do use it and recommend it... But other than that, I wouldn't even consider any automobile oil, especially one that isn't wet clutch compatible, would you?
No I wouldn't. When I said automobile oil I was referring to rotella t6 and mobile1, which is what I use. But it's ridiculous to pay so much for oil when your just paying for the name on the bottle that is the same thing as many other oils.
 
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Discussion Starter #14
No I wouldn't. When I said automobile oil I was referring to rotella t6 and mobile1, which is what I use. But it's ridiculous to pay so much for oil when your just paying for the name on the bottle that is the same thing as many other oils.
Yeah I get what you're saying. I have a case of amsoil synthetic I use for my 250... But that's synthetic also, I guess my question should have been is full synthetic so early on harmful...
 

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Why not eliminate the guessing game of "what oil is best" and stick with manufacture oil... yknow, the peeps that engineered your bike? Is it a money thing? You already spent 10k+ on the bike, whats a few extra bucks for knowing that you're pouring shit into it that the manufacturer actually recommends?
 

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How much you pay a quart and filter
I don't buy quarts, it's cheaper to buy per gallon. I buy K&N filters only (@ around $12).

and a gallon of Motul goes around $54. Hate me all you want but I don't cheap out on a critical component like oil; I don't doubt some cheap oil will do a decent job though, just my preference. To each their own i guess :)

edit: sorry, I skimped over your post
How many miles did you have on your bike when you started using motul?
I put Motul after breaking the bike in (don't remember the mileage ugh). Some say use this or that, but Motul has worked great on my bike so far.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Why not eliminate the guessing game of "what oil is best" and stick with manufacture oil... yknow, the peeps that engineered your bike? Is it a money thing? You already spent 10k+ on the bike, whats a few extra bucks for knowing that you're pouring shit into it that the manufacturer actually recommends?
So you're saying run kawasaki oil? Because your comment on the money thing leaves me thinking you're saying go for motul. I don't get people who spend 12k on a bike then skimp when it comes to things like a stand and oil etc. what's a few extra dollars to protect your 10k+ investment.
 

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So you're saying run kawasaki oil? Because your comment on the money thing leaves me thinking you're saying go for motul. I don't get people who spend 12k on a bike then skimp when it comes to things like a stand and oil etc. what's a few extra dollars to protect your 10k+ investment.
Most of us on here spent less than half of 10k on our bikes, including me
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I don't buy quarts, it's cheaper to buy per gallon. I buy K&N filters only (@ around $12).

and a gallon of Motul goes around $54. Hate me all you want but I don't cheap out on a critical component like oil; I don't doubt some cheap oil will do a decent job though, just my preference. To each their own i guess :)
How many miles did you have when you started using the motul? I feel the same way and only wanna pour in the best oil... What's $20 extra every oil change when the bike is north of 10k
 
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