[05bluezx6r]

So I was having a charging issue after dropping the bike (stator side). I won’t go into the symptoms, as the issue is now pretty apparent (melted connector pictured).

I did the troubleshooting procedures for the charging system per the manual, and stumbled upon a melted rectifier connector. I’m aware this is not a rare issue, as I’ve spent hours researching similar posts, but I have a couple questions.

1. Does anyone know of connector options, or would I just have to find a similar connector from cycle terminal?

2. Instead of using a connector, should I just hardwire it together after replacing the rectifier? I assume the wiring diagram will show me the proper connections.

3. Is it wise to only swap out the rectifier, without replacing the stator? The stator passed all the voltage tests, but not the resistance test (leads to chassis ground). I have a replacement stator, but prefer not to install it, if it’s unnecessary. If I replace the rectifier and everything works properly, is it still imperative to swap out the stator?

4. Now I’m paranoid about heat affecting the ECU, any recommendations on shielding it? Any ideas on shielding the connectors as well?

I have a new battery also.

 

[Scorpi0]

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[riverszzr]

You say the stator fails the test to ground so it is shit, replace the stator! and the only real downside to hardwiring and soldering instead of having the plug is the inconvenience of not being able to easily and quickly unplug it and plug it back in......
if you hardwire, be sure to solder it well and shrinkwrap the connections!

 

[RJ2112]

Also worth mentioning, if a connector got so hot that it melted there’s a very good chance that the pins inside it were corroded. Corrosion is almost always higher resistance than refined metal. That resistance creates the heat that melts the plastic plug body.

If that has happened in one plug, it’s happening in many others. Do yourself a favor and take each Plug/receptacle pair you can find , break the connection, flood the female side with dielectric grease before you mate them again.

 

[05bluezx6r]

I knew you guys were gonna tell me to replace the stator. It’s so tempting to just replace the rectifier, and test the entire system again. I figured it’s best to replace both at the same time, but wasn’t sure if a bad stator can take out a good rectifier. I know it works that way in the reverse.

I didn’t want to open anything up, if I don’t have to. It seems any time you work on an old bike, it’s like opening a can of worms. Other sh!t just miraculously breaks (or I break it, hahahaha).

I agree about the corrosion as well, I have read that on a few posts. My initial though was to open every connector and clean them up if necessary, but that’s also a sh!t ton of connectors. I’m also a believer of the mantra, “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it,” so we will see.

I will definitely take my time, and solder good connections using heat shrink as well. I figure I shouldn’t need to disconnect the plugs, unless one or both go out again.

I appreciate all the responses. Hopefully I didn’t strip any of the stator screws the last time I replaced it. I wouldn’t be surprised if I did though. I’m also hoping the rotor isn’t bad, or lost its magnetism, as that’s something I wouldn’t want to tackle.

 

[PhotoAl]

Yea, defiantly replace the stator. On my Yamaha FZ6 the stator was held in place with bolts that used the strong thread locker. Heat can soften it but I was careful to use good technique and got the bolts out without issue. Put it back together same way. So many electrical problems are connection issues. I've not done it with my bike but on my 2003 Honda Metropolitian it would be a good idea, it's horn is a bit finicky and on something that small and slow a good horn is necessary.