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Discussion Starter #1
Hello All,

I have recently purchased a manual cam chain tensioner. Now in theory is seems pretty easy to install. The only scary part seems to be if you do something wrong. I have seen precautions like using zip ties to hold cams and china in place. Would this be a good idea? Any thing else you would recommend?

Thanks again ride safe all
Sincerely,
John W
 

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I plan on attempting to adjust my valves this season which has a similar process to what you are changing. Everything I had read and watched suggests using zip ties or bungie cords. They are interference motors so one wrong mistake and there goes your motor. Its your chain making noise now? Have you tried adjusting your oem one?
 

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You shouldn't need to open up the engine to install a cam chain tensioner.
"shouldn't" being the operative word.........however to properly adjust the tensioner you will need access to the cam chain (ie valve cover off so you can see and feel)

So you can throw it in there-and guess if you are the correct chain slack and as long as you do not rotate the engine while old removal and new install you "should" be okay (tons of people do this and get away with it......it isn't the right way, but people are generally lazy)
or you can do it correctly........and at that point you should just adjust the valves too- since you are right at them !
 

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You shouldn't need to open up the engine to install a cam chain tensioner.
I agree. Me and a buddy put on my 08 , fairly easy , all I had to remove on mine was the right side fairing . Uncertain how a 03 set up is but would like to believe it would be similar
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yeah It is making noise Looking for a temp fix. I did not check the auto cam. I did not now it has an adjustment. I found out you can buy a new engine for the a tid more than the amount of adjusting the valves. If I did valves I would replace timing components as well. But I feel Like replacing the motor would be a better investment in the long run. As long as it did not lock up while I was riding haha.
 

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Haha dam riverszzr shoulda consulted with u before I put in . So basically way we put mine on was wrong .. So don't listen to me I retract my statement
 

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I had to adjust my tensioner shortly after purchasing my bike its really easy. Took less than 30 minutes. Just make sure you are in a quiet work area and try adjusting it before replacing it. I adjusted mine and its been fine for the last 6,000 miles.
 

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"shouldn't" being the operative word.........however to properly adjust the tensioner you will need access to the cam chain (ie valve cover off so you can see and feel)

So you can throw it in there-and guess if you are the correct chain slack and as long as you do not rotate the engine while old removal and new install you "should" be okay (tons of people do this and get away with it......it isn't the right way, but people are generally lazy)
or you can do it correctly........and at that point you should just adjust the valves too- since you are right at them !
Yea, this makes sense. I guess I was thinking more of the OEM automatic tensioner.
 

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Rivers you should move to the east coast...I'd pay you well to give my bike a good going through
There are like 5 of you on the east coats wanting/needing good service.......a winter road trip to MN with all the bikes wouldn't be that bad, split by 4 or 5....
 
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Discussion Starter #12
So zip ties are the best way prevent any sort of movement?

As long as nothing moves I should be fine?

I assume the chain has worn out. Or the tensioner cannot automatically adjust far enough out...
 

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So I went to put it in and the end nut to adjust the the tension for the chain was stuck against the frame haha FUCK!
on a new manual tensioner or on the oem tensioner?

oem tensioner you would have had that end nut off before install
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
on a new manual tensioner or on the oem tensioner?





oem tensioner you would have had that end nut off before install

Ebay Aftermarket chinapooooo. As you can see I have not provide forum savy pictures. There are two nuts on the screw, I removed one with a metal grinder. I am trying to think of a way either to put a flat head or 10mm hex pattern on the top for adjusting. The nuts is 16mm wingspan and needs to be reduced 2-3mmm so it can fully rotate without hitting the frame. But If I turned it into a flat head I could get a better feel of chain tension. Though I do not want to make anything permanent until I have fully thought it through.
 

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Ebay Aftermarket chinapooooo. As you can see I have not provide forum savy pictures. There are two nuts on the screw, I removed one with a metal grinder. I am trying to think of a way either to put a flat head or 10mm hex pattern on the top for adjusting. The nuts is 16mm wingspan and needs to be reduced 2-3mmm so it can fully rotate without hitting the frame. But If I turned it into a flat head I could get a better feel of chain tension. Though I do not want to make anything permanent until I have fully thought it through.
With the grinder, you removed the nut that you needed to use to adjust the tensioner! The nut that is left is just the lock nut.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
With the grinder, you removed the nut that you needed to use to adjust the tensioner! The nut that is left is just the lock nut.
I know it was hitting the frame I need about 3mm of clearance. I am going to install 10mm nut (hexagon) in place of the nut i removed. The bolt is important for feeling the chain and adjusting properly. It is not load bearing and the locking nut which is still there is still in place and 100% functional.

Or just a cut, for a flat head screw driver to be placed in the middle of the thread part of the chain guide.
 

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This is really starting to sound like the beginning of a "WTB 03 engine" thread.

Clearly this is not right. If you are only riding on the street, buy an OEM tensioner, install it, and never worry about it for as long as you own the bike.

If you are planning on keeping it and insist on a manual tensioner, buy a quality one (APE or whatever) and install it properly.

I realize that you are saving a few bucks by using what you have, and I appreciate the fact that money is tight. Given what you have seen of that part so far in terms of quality would you really trust it? Is saving $40 now worth the potential engine work that will be needed later if it fails? That just seems like false economy to me.
 
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