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Discussion Starter #681
Man I want a z1000...

Ever test driven?

Of course...........

and if you are serious about getting one, buy post 2013 model........... huge updates in 2013, night and day better than previous models....
 

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Discussion Starter #682
97* yesterday with dewpoints in the mid 60*'s

85* today and raining and they are saying 2+ inches......... lovely

meanwhile I think rioters and looters and thieves must have numerous parts I am waiting on (you know stuff they stole out of fed ex trucks, UPS trucks, USPS buildings etc, or maybe they simply burned it to the ground.................)

All tracking updates now tell me is "delayed"

fucking sucks........... even oem parts are substantially longer ship times to arrive, aftermarket all take longer, sometimes weeks longer........ How the hell can one efficiently and effectively get shit done with 11 of the 13 bikes here currently waiting on parts for more than a week now, a few of them for more than 2 weeks now.............

Fucking bullshit;
first the scamedemic and now the fucking rioter trash criminals who should have all been run over and shot!


A few pictures for you- so it isn't all negative/......

some putz installed his own toe protector. then he can't figure out what he did wrong or why it wobbles and is loose....... umm....maybe if installed correctly it wouldn't be dumbass!

Master cylinder---- it is old, sludge happens........ how about try flushing the brakes more often than NEVER..........

Some new steering head bearing desperately needed in the 153,000 Victory (thursday I have another victory with about 50k coming in for a new clutch, lucky me........ $140 tool needed to compress the spring on a job that generally takes sub 2 hours, so if I see maybe a half dozen more of these I may finally get my monies back for the tool?

A gsxr750 with big piston forks got some AK20's.......... yep you have to pull the fork completely apart in order to install a "stud" so the new cartridge has something to attach to........not horrible but a bit time consuming, especially the long wait for it all to cool back down from about 300*

and some dipshit idiot and his Concours1400, running full on sportbike tires (Q3+ in this round) and still tries to coax 5000+ miles out of the tires............. this is after only 3200 miles.............. He wanted to let this go longer, claimed it still had life...........fucking idiot, but some sport touring tires for your 700 pound behemouth plus with your 250+ lb self on board....sport tires aren't even rated for..... likely 1000# bike and rider and he says he takes his wife....now we are talking 1200#+............... he decided to try the S22's instead of going with the sport touring tires I recommended- there is a reason all these guys buy the GT compound with the higher weight ratings!!!!!!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #683
How could I forget about this beauty of an idiot..........

Guy tries telling me ........................
Well first he claimed it was just the chain was too tight
then it was the chain and sprockets were worn out
then it was the clutch was worn out
(and as far as I know he replaced all of those himself or with friends)
finally after weeks of stupid......... he says.......... all it needs is a new shift fork, the internet idiots told him so.........

I tried to explain how shit works and why but he refused to be educated, so I finally stated ......sign this disclaimer, and this one and check this box and pay up front cash crisp hundos and since you insist that I only do exactly what you want with the shitty used parts you supplied, there is zero warranty that it makes it three inches or three feet........
and when it fails you agree Lloyd is right, to pay the quote I gave you above and beyond this stupid exercise in futility to teach you a lesson and you will immediately bring a $1000 cash deposit towards the correct parts that I will order brand new!

He was adamant the internet idiots were right and I was wrong...... (why would you want me to work on it then????)

So he pays for what he wants............

and then of course he pays again for what it really needs............

I figure 3 weeks of emails, 4 phone calls and no less than 1 hour in person when he finally showed up was enough waste of my time, now he needed to learn a valueable lesson in humility and being an ignorant arrogant prickstain shithead...........fucking douchenozzle

I really found it funny when he tells me it shifts like shit still, but his buddy shows up like 2 weeks later and tells me how well it shifts and how happy the guy is and how he has been riding the shit out of.... Maybe if the shithead shitstain would have apologized he could have saved himself about $500, whatever........ fuck off and don't come back ever what the parting words...........

and sadly............. I have seen the exact same stupid on this very forum!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
20170523_162844_LI.jpg
Gee, can you tell what the problem is here????
I sure hope so! Obviously that slot the shift fork rides in is a critical measurement and doubling its size does not ever get better withotu replacing that gear set!!!!!!!!!! I don't care how many new or used but good shift forks you throw at it
 
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Discussion Starter #684
And let us not forget about todays......... I figured I could fix it myself, customer

So he brings in this very nice and clean looking GS500F.....

He says he cleaned the carbs himself but now it pukes gas all the time so he cut the $40 fuel line and installed a petcock there as well, still pukes gas all the time

now........ the tank on these have 2 fuel lines coming out the bottom much like the F model zx6r etc.....

they run to a petcock (vacuum operated in those case) and then another fuel line leaves the petcock and up to the carburetors.............

Brainiac not only puts one hose clamp around both fuel lines at once (instead of one on each) at both ends but he also mixes up their location......... fuel tank reserve to his new on/off--- the other end going to ??????? I think it was just open, on to petcock out, overflow hose to petcock in "on"

When I started unhooking stuff it just poured fuel out all over and it was even rushing out the fill cap (overflow hose)- wait til I get the petcock apart, 2 of the 3 screws for the vacuum chamber are missing so you know it is going to be fucked internally too.........

The drain plug was not tight, and I loved that although the oil looked super fresh......... it was about 3" over the full on the dipstick (doesn't even smell gassy)

then of course the carbs...........oh my

so he must has torn or broken or lost most the vacuum hoses and forgot how they ran too as he has a few super tiny like 1/8" lines crammed inside of bigger lines and ultimately he nowhere has vacuum going to the petcock rather he had it going to an open drain line down by the centerstand.......ugh

I have not even taken them apart yet, but one carb slide is stuck wide open and the needle is not even in the needle jet holder, duh......

And finally..........the sprockets on this 12,000 mile zero horsepower are so hooked and worn out, but the chain while not looking brand new today, certainly looks pretty new when you compare its cleanliness to the sprockets and that it is not kinked or have any tight spots etc........

original 13 year old tires

Front brake drags, as in... apply them and you can barely push the bike around without spreading the pads back away form the rotor

What a mess............... He said he has been working on it since last July and wishes he would have just kept riding it....... Wait, what????????? so it was rideable and working okay then you decided to fuck it up??????? lol.....

I did not even have the heart at that point to ask him how much he spent on the bike or how much he spent "fixing it" and he never asked how much it may cost just kept saying "I just need it to run and work again, whatever it needs".... his dad asked- and I told him if it is less than $1000 I would be very surprised...... He made some sort of remark like....... okay good, it was sounding like it was going to be several thousand the way you kept finding more things wrong......... So now I am looking up part numbers and some pricing..............
 

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A) should have quoted the dude $2k
B) is that a vacuum diaphragm like on my Magna? Between the tank and the carbs?
 

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97* yesterday with dewpoints in the mid 60*'s

85* today and raining and they are saying 2+ inches......... lovely

meanwhile I think rioters and looters and thieves must have numerous parts I am waiting on (you know stuff they stole out of fed ex trucks, UPS trucks, USPS buildings etc, or maybe they simply burned it to the ground.................)

All tracking updates now tell me is "delayed"

fucking sucks........... even oem parts are substantially longer ship times to arrive, aftermarket all take longer, sometimes weeks longer........ How the hell can one efficiently and effectively get shit done with 11 of the 13 bikes here currently waiting on parts for more than a week now, a few of them for more than 2 weeks now.............

Fucking bullshit;
first the scamedemic and now the fucking rioter trash criminals who should have all been run over and shot!


A few pictures for you- so it isn't all negative/......

some putz installed his own toe protector. then he can't figure out what he did wrong or why it wobbles and is loose....... umm....maybe if installed correctly it wouldn't be dumbass!

Master cylinder---- it is old, sludge happens........ how about try flushing the brakes more often than NEVER..........

Some new steering head bearing desperately needed in the 153,000 Victory (thursday I have another victory with about 50k coming in for a new clutch, lucky me........ $140 tool needed to compress the spring on a job that generally takes sub 2 hours, so if I see maybe a half dozen more of these I may finally get my monies back for the tool?

A gsxr750 with big piston forks got some AK20's.......... yep you have to pull the fork completely apart in order to install a "stud" so the new cartridge has something to attach to........not horrible but a bit time consuming, especially the long wait for it all to cool back down from about 300*

and some dipshit idiot and his Concours1400, running full on sportbike tires (Q3+ in this round) and still tries to coax 5000+ miles out of the tires............. this is after only 3200 miles.............. He wanted to let this go longer, claimed it still had life...........fucking idiot, but some sport touring tires for your 700 pound behemouth plus with your 250+ lb self on board....sport tires aren't even rated for..... likely 1000# bike and rider and he says he takes his wife....now we are talking 1200#+............... he decided to try the S22's instead of going with the sport touring tires I recommended- there is a reason all these guys buy the GT compound with the higher weight ratings!!!!!!!!!!
AK20’s are nice. Why do you have to heat them up?
 

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Discussion Starter #687
A) should have quoted the dude $2k
B) is that a vacuum diaphragm like on my Magna? Between the tank and the carbs?
At best $2000 bike even fixed??????

I don't want to rip him off, I just want to be paid a fair fee for my time......

and yes it is a vacuum petcock but the vacuum diaphram was missing as was part of the rubber 3 hole gasket to swap where fuel goes, so it always would go.......
 
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Discussion Starter #688
AK20’s are nice. Why do you have to heat them up?
To unthread the inner chrome tube from the base shoe the calipers and axle go through.........
red loctite holds it all together and seals up the leaks.....

that top pic with the threaded stud needs to get installed in between the shoe and the inner tube for the Ak to attach

this is after the fork spring preload adjuster is removed- the parts easily removed and where that studed flat has to sit.....

and here are the "throw away pieces"
 

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How many customers do you get that saw it on youtube and are master mechanics from watching the video (right or wrong)?

A mechanic I have known since I started driving told me 2 years ago I could have the shop and he would walk away that day. He was done Dealing with people. A customer comes in wants a estimate but abc down the street will do it for $20 less. Then the people that want the bare minimum repaired or the person that read online the flux capacitor was the sure fix.

I would have to hire a front desk firewall to deal with everyone.
 

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To unthread the inner chrome tube from the base shoe the calipers and axle go through.........
red loctite holds it all together and seals up the leaks.....

that top pic with the threaded stud needs to get installed in between the shoe and the inner tube for the Ak to attach

this is after the fork spring preload adjuster is removed- the parts easily removed and where that studed flat has to sit.....

and here are the "throw away pieces"
I didn’t have to separate the tube from the shoe when I did my seals and bushings did I? (It been so long lol)
 

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Discussion Starter #691 (Edited)
How many customers do you get that saw it on youtube and are master mechanics from watching the video (right or wrong)?

A mechanic I have known since I started driving told me 2 years ago I could have the shop and he would walk away that day. He was done Dealing with people. A customer comes in wants a estimate but abc down the street will do it for $20 less. Then the people that want the bare minimum repaired or the person that read online the flux capacitor was the sure fix.

I would have to hire a front desk firewall to deal with everyone.

My real firewall is my website and the fact I have not answered the phone not once in more than a year......... That keeps most of the dimwitted away and the libretards are all insulted when they read page one of the website which keeps the real ignorant dumbfucks away........ and most people when they hear the outgoing message understand exactly I will not tolerate any of their ignorance...... Many (and there is no way for me to know how many since they do not contact me again.......... but many are insulted and besides themself in anger at my outgoing message.......... those are exactly the idiots I am trying to keep away, so the message is working as designed!)

I get maybe 10 customers each year that irk the hell out of me but are managed...... with frustration but managed.... maybe another dozen or two who are an annoyance but put in their place quickly they shut the hell up

I get maybe 2 or 3 or on a really bad year possibly 5 super retarded morons who just piss me off, want to argue everything and tell me how they know it all etc......... I kick these assholes out as quickly as possible and if I knew I could get away with it, I would do the world a favor and bury them in the desert so they would never be a hinderence to anyone else ever, worthless scum is really what they are just looking for free free free and whoa is me attitude about how everyone owes them or how mistreated they are for being a fucking dimwitted twatsickle

These are all reasons I really try hard to weed out the shiteaters and stick with my core base customers and not add many new customers ever......... I mean I do add new ones every year, but I weed out a couple hundred and get it down to a dozen or two, and even then sometimes I regret them

see post 664
 
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Discussion Starter #692
I didn’t have to separate the tube from the shoe when I did my seals and bushings did I? (It been so long lol)
No- you would not have had to of for that............

believe me- you would remember if you ever do find yourself having to removing the inner tube from the shoe....... requires a vice, soft round jaws of 41mm or 43mm and not too much clamping force (super thinwalled and easily dented) and not too little clamping force (spin them and they can get galled) and a torch and some time....... or put it whole in the over @ 350* for about 15 minutes then remove

the putting back together is very easy ocne cool.......... clean the threads and the tube and body, cover all threads in red loctite..yes every single last stinking thread........... screw it all together by hand as tight as you can with your hands and no tools, then reinstall the set screw(s) and wait about 20 minutes before filling with oil, so the loctite is mostly hard before the oil hits it......... ( I tend to let them sit overnight before filling with oil, or atleast several hours)
 
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No- you would not have had to of for that............

believe me- you would remember if you ever do find yourself having to removing the inner tube from the shoe....... requires a vice, soft round jaws of 41mm or 43mm and not too much clamping force (super thinwalled and easily dented) and not too little clamping force (spin them and they can get galled) and a torch and some time....... or put it whole in the over @ 350* for about 15 minutes then remove

the putting back together is very easy ocne cool.......... clean the threads and the tube and body, cover all threads in red loctite..yes every single last stinking thread........... screw it all together by hand as tight as you can with your hands and no tools, then reinstall the set screw(s) and wait about 20 minutes before filling with oil, so the loctite is mostly hard before the oil hits it......... ( I tend to let them sit overnight before filling with oil, or atleast several hours)
I figured I’d have known. Baked Racetech forks for dinner. Yum! I’ve baked headlight housings to help release butyl rubber. Not that high obviously.

So I assume you don’t have thread chaser that big lol
 

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Discussion Starter #694
If you look inside the two different (right and left) shoes once the leg is removed and the up and down portion of the spring preload adjuster................

look how this arrived, one leg almost full spring preload the other at minimum......... ugh...........

But no- one can make short work of it with a simply scotch brite pad and brake cleaner......, that rust on the other hand is above the internals and it where water tends to gather above the threads in the micro small area...... I like to put a little grease up there to hopefully prevent the rust accumulation
 

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Discussion Starter #695
I figured I’d have known. Baked Racetech forks for dinner. Yum! I’ve baked headlight housings to help release butyl rubber. Not that high obviously.

So I assume you don’t have thread chaser that big lol
AK20's are from traxxion not racetech.................. way superior!!!
 

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oh lord...steering stem bearings (headstock bearings), don't even....haha. Did it on 3 bikes recently (one of them mine), and was my first time. Man I am NOT a fan. It actually went pretty smooth on my (and my friends) 05 zx6r, but not so smooth on his 2005 z750s, which barely has a notch in the frame to punch out the old bearings. But I will say fixed my clunking suspension noise that I was experiencing prior to doing that. All our bikes have around 30k miles on it...which I thought was low for a steering stem bearing replacement, should I be worried about other components on my bike? everything else seems to be straight and up to date (forks, wheel, axle, etc...)

Love watching you work on bikes riverszzr!
 
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Discussion Starter #698
oh lord...steering stem bearings (headstock bearings), don't even....haha. Did it on 3 bikes recently (one of them mine), and was my first time. Man I am NOT a fan. It actually went pretty smooth on my (and my friends) 05 zx6r, but not so smooth on his 2005 z750s, which barely has a notch in the frame to punch out the old bearings. But I will say fixed my clunking suspension noise that I was experiencing prior to doing that. All our bikes have around 30k miles on it...which I thought was low for a steering stem bearing replacement, should I be worried about other components on my bike? everything else seems to be straight and up to date (forks, wheel, axle, etc...)

Love watching you work on bikes riverszzr!
Swingarm bearings
the linkage bearings for the rear suspension
the wheel bearings, all those would be bare minimums to be cleaning and lubricating at 30k, especially on 10-15 year old bikes

but all the pivot points, levers, footpegs, shifter you name it.......all those should be done

^^ some bikes have a little cut out making steering head removal super easy with a long punch and hammer, while others are completely concealed and real motherfuckers to remove....... Even with the bearing puller tool, often those are a huge pain in the ass to get out- I often grab the dremel and grind a slot in there for ease of removal now and for future service.....
 

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Yes...I agree about all pivot points and bearings. Did our wheel bearings few thousand miles ago, those are honestly not that big a deal (although the first time...it was). We found, like you, that sometimes the bearing puller kits cause more harm than good (My friend and I ended up at an urgent care getting tetnis shots after punching ourselves in the face with the puller kit on wheel bearings.... 😂 ). From then on we prefer punching them out from the opposite end, where possible.

In any event, I was just surprised a steering stem/head bearing would need to be replaced with this low miles, but yeah..the age.

Both our bikes have the little notch to punch out the bearings in the steering head however, on the zx6r it was more pronounced and easier to fit a flat head or punch in and punch the bearing out. The Z750s notch was barely visible, and I had to create a sort of "hook" in a flat head, to make sure it stays in the notch while punching it out. However, I love your thoughts on a dremel! Will keep that in mind for the next hard one I encounter haha.
 
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