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Discussion Starter #1
My levers are good where they are, for both track and street, for me anyways. Just outta curiousity, do any other track guys / racers have any freeplay at all in your levers, from fully disengaged to lever pull initiation? Any cons down the road this may cause in the cables?

Levers are still stock. For clutch lever, i use all 4 fingers, just never got into the 2 finger thing, but do use 2 finger method for brake.
 

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If you're saying zero slack on your track bike at the clutch lever, I'd say it's a minor issue. Not to the cable, but to the clutch. You potentially increase wear. Because of how few miles a track bike accumulates, and the greater abuse from launching, likely a moot point.

On a street bike, if you have zero slack with the bars pointed straight ahead, you will induce a small amount of slippage in the clutch when the bars are max right or left. Adjusted correctly, even at max left or right there is no tension on the clutch cable --- it can have zero slack at max bar deflection, but should have no tension.

The arc the bars move through as they pivot around the steering stem produces a change in distance between the hand controls and the points they connect to on the chassis. The triple clamp imposes an offset between the steering stem and the fork legs. That offset makes the arc eccentric and produces leverage.... That 'pulling' is what the slack at the lever accounts for. 'Worst case' .
 

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Discussion Starter #3
hmmm, makes sense. Yes, in the physical freeplay of the levers. I allow my clutch lever to be between 1/4" - 1/2" loose in "taughtness" before the point of tension is reached (in its path of travel via the lever tension adjustment dial), kind of like a firearm trigger. My brake lever is set to about 5/10 on the dial i believe, but begins tension at 0 (no free play).
 

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Brakes are hydraulic, doesn't suffer from the eccentric action. Zero slack is normal. Any sponginess is due to hose flex, lever pivot slop, or water and air in the lines.

Clutch does, because the sheath and the cable aren't connected to the same points. Slack adjustment is changing the length of the sheath with respect to the cable.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
...Any sponginess is due to hose flex...
I'm glad i installed the Spiegler front brake line kit... i had waited until the control action/tension began to feel this sponginess you mentioned, especially during hard braking after a decent straight. I shoulda done it long before lol. And youre right, i shouldnt've stated in my OP anything about the brake lever, given the facts you stated about the brakes. I was bein a bit over-descriptive there lol. but hey, maybe the thread will help someone somewhere with some clarification.
 

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I shoot for minimum gap between lever and perch (usually 2mm) and use an Allen wrench in the gap to measure. Seen too many bad possibilities with cable routing, gopro mounts in the way, you name it..... course same could be said with too much slack also. What gets me about aftermarket brake line sites is they tell you best to be an inch longer than shorter....... when it's true, but should really state "pull em off and measure them first". An inch longer brake line might be a safer bet and also doesn't add up to anything except more fluid, space and weight.
 

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I usually adjust the clutch lever for a very slight amount of free play (similar to what the service manual shows, but maybe even a little bit less free play):
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Discussion Starter #8
well damn, all these years ive just gone by feel lol

thanks
 
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