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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Alrighty, just received mine Nighteye LED H7 72W 9000 lumen.

Looks like OP's bulbs but under different name here in UK. Took a gamble for £20.99. I will install them over the weekend and post end results.
Can you post a before and after picture of your bike with your headlights? I?m curious to see them.
 

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***PROBLEM***

I think I've messed it up. Installed them on Sunday and main beam bulb went out yesterday while I was filling up at petrol station and now it's just flickering.

I have suspicion it overheated since H7 mounts on 2014 model have rubber boots made that way so they gotta go over bulb heatsink.

I need to fabricate another boot that goes around housing but not heatsink. Looks like I gotta spend another 20 quid. As for now I'll remove boot completely and swap bad bulb with high beam one.

Costly mistake and no one to blame.

I'll post before & after results after everything is sorted out and I have my lights adjusted properly.
 

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Looks like you cut the boot to fit very nicely around the LED rear housing. Looks like that is a fan and it may not be able to get good airflow. It's trying to blow air out of a sealed compartment and air can't get in. If you added an inlet vent on the bottom it would probably fix the issue. Hopefully the LED's are protected from overheating in which case you would not have ruined them.
 

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Looks like you cut the boot to fit very nicely around the LED rear housing. Looks like that is a fan and it may not be able to get good airflow. It's trying to blow air out of a sealed compartment and air can't get in. If you added an inlet vent on the bottom it would probably fix the issue. Hopefully the LED's are protected from overheating in which case you would not have ruined them.
It comes on but after some time shuts down again, even without boot. I'll get boots from R1 like ZedExMuse did.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 · (Edited)
Sorry to hear your having issues. The 2009-2012 doesn?t use a rubber boot. My 2015 Crf250l does. I cut 3 skits extending outward so the boot could fit over the fan housing just like yours. Mine never overheated. Unfortunately what Ive researched is that some of these Chinese knock off led bulbs are sub par and will have circuit board issues and will flicker like your symptoms. I say its the bulb and brand. Ive had bad Chinese knock offs for other bulbs and Ive had good ones. The ones I posted Haven't given me any problems on either of my motorcycles.

If your good with soldering, you can remove the rear housing of the bulb and inspect the circuit board for weak or skimpy soldering points and beef up the soldering. Just be willing to scrap the bulb if things go bad. I had a 1991 bmw 525i that had flickering / intermittent headlights. It was notorious that the factory skimped on the soldering of the Light Control Module(an ecu looking box for the lights). I had to break into the box and re solder the bad solder points. It was obvious which solderpoints it was when I looked at it. BMW wanted almost $800 for a factory light control module and I did it for about $20 with the purchase of the soldering gun. So, you could attempt to do the same with your bulb.
 

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***PROBLEM***

I think I've messed it up. Installed them on Sunday and main beam bulb went out yesterday while I was filling up at petrol station and now it's just flickering.

I have suspicion it overheated since H7 mounts on 2014 model have rubber boots made that way so they gotta go over bulb heatsink.

I need to fabricate another boot that goes around housing but not heatsink. Looks like I gotta spend another 20 quid. As for now I'll remove boot completely and swap bad bulb with high beam one.

Costly mistake and no one to blame.

I'll post before & after results after everything is sorted out and I have my lights adjusted properly.
I got problem the led But hit the fork
 

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Sorry to hear your having issues. The 2009-2012 doesn?t use a rubber boot. My 2015 Crf250l does. I cut 3 skits extending outward so the boot could fit over the fan housing just like yours. Mine never overheated. Unfortunately what Ive researched is that some of these Chinese knock off led bulbs are sub par and will have circuit board issues and will flicker like your symptoms. I say its the bulb and brand. Ive had bad Chinese knock offs for other bulbs and Ive had good ones. The ones I posted Haven't given me any problems on either of my motorcycles.

If your good with soldering, you can remove the rear housing of the bulb and inspect the circuit board for weak or skimpy soldering points and beef up the soldering. Just be willing to scrap the bulb if things go bad. I had a 1991 bmw 525i that had flickering / intermittent headlights. It was notorious that the factory skimped on the soldering of the Light Control Module(an ecu looking box for the lights). I had to break into the box and re solder the bad solder points. It was obvious which solderpoints it was when I looked at it. BMW wanted almost $800 for a factory light control module and I did it for about $20 with the purchase of the soldering gun. So, you could attempt to do the same with your bulb.
I think i was overheating. I've swapped high beam and main beam bulbs without rubber covers and so far had no problems at all. And bulb that originally went bad working just fine.
 

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I like that you decided to buy LED headlights. Popular LED lamps are characterized by the lowest level of energy consumption and the longest service life. In such headlights, a semiconductor is used that gives optical radiation close to daylight when electricity passes through it. And that's why I also decided to choose headlights and interior car lights with LEDs. It is the right decision considering the world's current events and the planet's ecological situation. It is better to save your money and the energy resources of humanity.
 
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