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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Pumped to be picking up my baby tomorrow, ZX6R 2023 black/grey w/ ABS. I live in Tampa and am driving to Alabama to pick her up given it was impossible to find a black one in FL. I’m then riding around the rural roads of bama and Georgia to break her in over the course of a few days. With that said, first I’m doing is the usual: fender eliminator (w/ plate flipper incorporated if possible), frame sliders, and exhaust tip (just doing a tip for now I think…): Any Suggestions (focused on best products, not price)? I’ll prob upgrade the mirrors as well, and if there’s anything else that you guys upgraded that you’d recommend, I’m all ears. Having a hard time verifying fitment given it’s a 2023 so appreciate the help. And if there’s anything else that I need to keep in mind specific to the ZX6R, I’d love to listen as this is my first Kawasaki, and just my second bike (upgrading from a Yamaha R3). Thanks a lot in advance and ride safe! - AJ
Wheel Tire Vehicle Fuel tank Automotive tire
 

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Congratulations and welcome. I would recommend frame sliders ASAP, a long/full size muffler and not a short muffler, and possible clip-on risers to make the riding position more street friendly with greater comfort and visibility. An ECU flash is beneficial for on/off throttle response and cooler running engine, and a high flow filter is optional but I personally recommend K&N.

Steering dampers are optional and some will say that steering dampers are a waste of money but I personally wouldn't ride a SS class bike without a damper. The best steering damper is going to be Ohlins for around 600. I went with a Chinese company FXCNC for a bit over 100 with shipping. When using FXCNC make sure to read my post on the installation.

All of my recommendations are in my profile:

Moore Mafia ECU Flash, K&N air filter, Hindle Evolution cat-back, Puig windscreen and frame sliders, Evotech fender eliminator, FXCNC steering damper, PSR lowering links, PSR adjustable kickstand, HeliBars TracStar clip-ons.
 
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2022 ZX-6R KRT ABS
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Welcome and congratulations!

BTW, I got the OEM frame sliders surprisingly cheap on amazon:

Amazon.com: Kawasaki 99994-0349 Engine Guard : Automotive

I put them on a day after the bike tipped over in my driveway while idling, causing $500 of damage, not including plastics. :-(

(The side-stand has very little forward tilt compared to other bikes I have had, which have never had problem idling on flat ground.)

Ride safe!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Welcome and congratulations!

BTW, I got the OEM frame sliders surprisingly cheap on amazon:

Amazon.com: Kawasaki 99994-0349 Engine Guard : Automotive

I put them on a day after the bike tipped over in my driveway while idling, causing $500 of damage, not including plastics. :-(

(The side-stand has very little forward tilt compared to other bikes I have had, which have never had problem idling on flat ground.)

Ride safe!
I assume the frame sliders fit the 2023 if it fits ur 2022? The amazon listing says 2021 but I assume it just hasnt caught up to the newer models yet. And THANK YOU V MUCH RICH.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Congratulations and welcome. I would recommend frame sliders ASAP, a long/full size muffler and not a short muffler, and possible clip-on risers to make the riding position more street friendly with greater comfort and visibility. An ECU flash is beneficial for on/off throttle response and cooler running engine, and a high flow filter is optional but I personally recommend K&N.

Steering dampers are optional and some will say that steering dampers are a waste of money but I personally wouldn't ride a SS class bike without a damper. The best steering damper is going to be Ohlins for around 600. I went with a Chinese company FXCNC for a bit over 100 with shipping. When using FXCNC make sure to read my post on the installation.

All of my recommendations are in my profile:

Moore Mafia ECU Flash, K&N air filter, Hindle Evolution cat-back, Puig windscreen and frame sliders, Evotech fender eliminator, FXCNC steering damper, PSR lowering links, PSR adjustable kickstand, HeliBars TracStar clip-ons.
For the muffler, you referring to a full system exhaust (replacing headers too) or just an exhaust tip? Sorry I’m not totally versed yet. I was thinking just doing an exhaust tip solely for sound purposes (want it loud for safety) - not interested in boosting performance just yet since this bike will have more than enough power for me. I’ll definitely get the steering damper you recommended. And as for sliders, do the ones Rich recommended in this string below look fine to you: Amazon.com: Kawasaki 99994-0349 Engine Guard : Automotive. Lastly, break in period, is there anything I need to keep in mind other than what’s in the manual? Dealer told me not to speed past speed limit during break in period… sounds a little crazy to me? THANK YOU for the detailed advice brotha! I didn’t upgrade my R3 (it came upgraded, bought used) so I’m very much a rookie here. Thanks again.
 

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For the muffler, you referring to a full system exhaust (replacing headers too) or just an exhaust tip? Sorry I’m not totally versed yet. I was thinking just doing an exhaust tip solely for sound purposes (want it loud for safety) - not interested in boosting performance just yet since this bike will have more than enough power for me. I’ll definitely get the steering damper you recommended. And as for sliders, do the ones Rich recommended in this string below look fine to you: Amazon.com: Kawasaki 99994-0349 Engine Guard : Automotive. Lastly, break in period, is there anything I need to keep in mind other than what’s in the manual? Dealer told me not to speed past speed limit during break in period… sounds a little crazy to me? THANK YOU for the detailed advice brotha! I didn’t upgrade my R3 (it came upgraded, bought used) so I’m very much a rookie here. Thanks again.
Ignore the manual. Soft break in will kill your horsepower. Just Don’t be bouncing it off the rev limiter. We always give them a few heat cycles then run the first 20-30 miles like I normally ride (hard) change the oil run it to 200 then go simi synthetic then run it to 8-1k then full synthetic normal 3k mile changes.
Last one we did the vids posted here 5 heat cycles and literally ran the piss out of it first 20 miles and it’s the highest one we have dyno yet. Highest one Moore has dyno in the 19-23 gens. It’s your bike you can do whatever but the hard riding and hard engine braking 100% seats the rings the way they need to be. My dealership years ago got to tour the Honda factories. And I got to spend some time with some engineers and the head of HRD and everyone I spoke to 100% agreed for longevity and performance reasons they run the piss out of them after a few heat cycles. Prob way harder than I even do. But you will hear people on both camps. But every reputable builder I have spoken to from hard core race guys like chris Moore to regular engine builders recommend hard break in. The only people you hear against it are strictly by the manual everyday type people who prob deep down know they will never get that break in period back again so they hate on it without any facts to back it up other than “the manual says so” lol. There is a good site that provides a ton of information and test hp and piston pictures I will try and find and post.
But again it’s your bike and your money I just recommend you research and decide what’s best for you
 

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Ahh you being a brand new rider I prob just gave you terrible advice. Maybe have a veteran rider break it in if you decide to do the hard break in. lol. I’d Rather ya be safe and loose a couple HP so don’t get killed.
 

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For the muffler, you referring to a full system exhaust (replacing headers too) or just an exhaust tip? Sorry I’m not totally versed yet. I was thinking just doing an exhaust tip solely for sound purposes (want it loud for safety) - not interested in boosting performance just yet since this bike will have more than enough power for me. I’ll definitely get the steering damper you recommended. And as for sliders, do the ones Rich recommended in this string below look fine to you: Amazon.com: Kawasaki 99994-0349 Engine Guard : Automotive. Lastly, break in period, is there anything I need to keep in mind other than what’s in the manual? Dealer told me not to speed past speed limit during break in period… sounds a little crazy to me? THANK YOU for the detailed advice brotha! I didn’t upgrade my R3 (it came upgraded, bought used) so I’m very much a rookie here. Thanks again.
I was not referring to a full system with headers, just a full sized muffler like the Hindle Evolution I have on my bike that replaces the muffler and resonator.

Or you can keep the resonator and just replace the muffler but you will need to find a muffler that keeps the resonator.

The ZX6R has a 3 piece exhaust, headers with cat, resonator, and muffler. When replacing the muffler you will need to remove the servo motor and cables and install a service buddy.

If you are going to use the FXCNC steering damper be sure to read my install instructions. The end caps need to be checked and tightened and no washer of any kind can be used in the center pivot piece.


Here is a pic of the full sized muffler I am talking about.

Tire Wheel Plant Fuel tank Vehicle


These are the parts that are removed when replacing the muffler and resonator. Once the servo motor and cables are removed do not start the engine until the servo buddy is connected. These parts weigh over 15 pounds combined so replacing the muffler and resonator will reduce weight by about 10 pounds.

Light Tool Bumper Automotive exterior Foot


Cold start sound of the Hindle Evolution:
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Ahh you being a brand new rider I prob just gave you terrible advice. Maybe have a veteran rider break it in if you decide to do the hard break in. lol. I’d Rather ya be safe and loose a couple HP so don’t get killed.
Lol! No I appreciate the info. I’m gonna do a hard break in but I don’t want to change the oil out at 30 miles cuz Kawasaki’s break in oil from factory is in it and idk what that is but I assume it’s the right oil for the break in period. I’m driving it off the lot now wish me luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ignore the manual. Soft break in will kill your horsepower. Just Don’t be bouncing it off the rev limiter. We always give them a few heat cycles then run the first 20-30 miles like I normally ride (hard) change the oil run it to 200 then go simi synthetic then run it to 8-1k then full synthetic normal 3k mile changes.
Last one we did the vids posted here 5 heat cycles and literally ran the piss out of it first 20 miles and it’s the highest one we have dyno yet. Highest one Moore has dyno in the 19-23 gens. It’s your bike you can do whatever but the hard riding and hard engine braking 100% seats the rings the way they need to be. My dealership years ago got to tour the Honda factories. And I got to spend some time with some engineers and the head of HRD and everyone I spoke to 100% agreed for longevity and performance reasons they run the piss out of them after a few heat cycles. Prob way harder than I even do. But you will hear people on both camps. But every reputable builder I have spoken to from hard core race guys like chris Moore to regular engine builders recommend hard break in. The only people you hear against it are strictly by the manual everyday type people who prob deep down know they will never get that break in period back again so they hate on it without any facts to back it up other than “the manual says so” lol. There is a good site that provides a ton of information and test hp and piston pictures I will try and find and post.
But again it’s your bike and your money I just recommend you research and decide what’s best for you
Just took it on the first ride for about 15 miles. Rides like a beauty. Maxed it out at 115mph. I thought I’d let her rest for a while before next ride cuz it started smelling like burning a little. Did some engine breaking and changed gears frequently making sure it’s not stuck on same revs for awhile. Anything else specifically I should be doing? I bought full synthetic oil/kawi change kit so I can do the change myself. Not sure if I should do it as you instructed or wait until 600 mile - do u know what oil comes from the factory?? Full synthetic or something else? If it’s full synthetic I’m thinking of leaving it in and doing change at 600 or maybe 200. Also I don’t know what heat cycles means - can u explain? Here she is:
Tire Wheel Plant Vehicle Fuel tank

Wheel Tire Land vehicle Vehicle Automotive lighting
 

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Awesome congratulations . Kawi ships with conventional oil. You need to change it pretty early imo gets all the left over build trash out of it. But do not go full synthetic before 600 miles. Some people say it doesn’t matter but every engine builder I have talked to says it’s just best to let everything get ran in good. That’s why I do the first one early with conventional oil then I do the second oil change with the kawi simi then for the third go full synthetic and start my normal rotation after that.
Sweet looking bike. I’m sure it’s just a coincidence but the black ones Moore has dyno have been the higher hp lol. I think their engine builder prefers the black bike lol. Our black one is noticeably faster than my orange one for whatever reason. I suspect the break in. My orange one has 900 miles when I got it. The black one we took off the pallet and ripped it.
 

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Heat cycles is just letting it warm to get up to temp shitting off and letting it cool. Then bringing back up to temp. It’s better than just talking off and sticking 100 miles on it at a time

when we build motors we will start then and get a couple heat cycles before we ever even ride it. Just makes sure gaskets and everything seal and no obvious problems. Then rip the Shit out of it.
Stoked for you. 👍 Nothing like that brand new bike feeling. Remember if you don’t know you have to turn the quick shifter on with the select switch lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Heat cycles is just letting it warm to get up to temp shitting off and letting it cool. Then bringing back up to temp. It’s better than just talking off and sticking 100 miles on it at a time

when we build motors we will start then and get a couple heat cycles before we ever even ride it. Just makes sure gaskets and everything seal and no obvious problems. Then rip the Shit out of it.
Stoked for you. 👍 Nothing like that brand new bike feeling. Remember if you don’t know you have to turn the quick shifter on with the select switch lol
Thank you for explaining man. Ok so I need to do a couple heat cycles before I ride it today cuz I didn’t do that the past two times. Good to know on the oil. I think I’m gonna follow ur exact reccomendations for the break in including the oil changes. Dude I can’t tell u how good it feels to ride this bike!!!! Compared to my R3 it’s stupid fast, and soooo smooth. It’s an entirely different feeling like I’m riding for the first time again. As for quick shift, I haven’t even used it yet. I’ve never used one so I’m gonna do some research on that before I try it. Dealership didn’t know shit about the bike it was the first zx6 they ever sold which scares me.
 

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If you have already rode it buddy no need for the heat cycles. Sounds like you are good to go now. We do it on brand new motors just to seat the gaskets and what not. Yours was done the first ride. I just like getting that first oil out fast. You would be amazed at what garbage the filter sometimes picks up on new motors. Left over gaskets stuff and just left over machining and stuff. But that’s what the filter is for. I just like the peace of mind knowing it’s all out and good to go. Prob over kill but oil is cheap.
As far as the quick shift it’s simple. Just take off don’t let off the throttle and shift up when needed. Only works going up tho so still use clutch down shifting. You can just leave it turned on even if you are manually clutching the system want know the difference
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Welcome and congratulations!

BTW, I got the OEM frame sliders surprisingly cheap on amazon:

Amazon.com: Kawasaki 99994-0349 Engine Guard : Automotive

I put them on a day after the bike tipped over in my driveway while idling, causing $500 of damage, not including plastics. :-(

(The side-stand has very little forward tilt compared to other bikes I have had, which have never had problem idling on flat ground.)

Ride safe!
Does this engine guard actually protect the fairings too if I drop the bike? Or just the engine? Prob a stupid question but just want to make sure before I get it. And did the install require drilling into fairings? Did u install urself and what tools do I need to do it myself assuming so? Dealer wants to charge me 150 to install.
 

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I have the Puig frame sliders and they absolutely work. I was working in my garage and knocked the bike over and there is literally not a scratch on the bike, the only blemish is on the clip on end cap.

I recommend the Puig sliders because I know they work great.

The frame sliders for the 2019-2023 ZX6R bolt right in without any modifications to the fairings.
 
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