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Discussion Starter #1
Found a set from cheapcycle parts for $127.00.
Anybody know of a better price? & what are your thoughts on this.

Pretty sure I don't have the tools for this, What should I expect to pay for labor?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #4

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If that is OEM rings (recommended) than that's a good deal. As far as labor it won't be cheap. At all. It's really not a difficult job though if you are slightly mechanically inclined which I get the impression you are. Not many specialty tools required either. Would be much cheaper to get the tools you would need.

Edit: Don't forget you'll also need at a bare minimum a new head gasket and cylinder base gasket.
 

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It's not that hard of a job. If you can adjust your valves you change your rings. Just read the manual get a ring compression tool( or whatever it's called). I do believe you have it in you OND. If you need help just ask there are a lot of knowledgeable people on this forum that can help you.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
whoa, not trying to be offensive man just poking fun at myself because I didn't even know what you meant.

*Edit I would actually like to know what you're talking about.
2007 Kawasaki ZZR600 (ZX600J7F) Cylinder/Piston(s) | Cheap Cycle Parts
No offence taken, none meant to be given...
Don't mean to be an ass But this is not a laughing matter.

If that is OEM rings (recommended) than that's a good deal. As far as labor it won't be cheap. At all. It's really not a difficult job though if you are slightly mechanically inclined which I get the impression you are. Not many specialty tools required either. Would be much cheaper to get the tools you would need.

Edit: Don't forget you'll also need at a bare minimum a new head gasket and cylinder base gasket.
Yeah priced them too, Never done this, But I'm thinking there is a special tool used to get the rings out, & new ones back in???
 
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Discussion Starter #9
It's not that hard of a job. If you can adjust your valves you change your rings. Just read the manual get a ring compression tool( or whatever it's called). I do believe you have it in you OND. If you need help just ask there are a lot of knowledgeable people on this forum that can help you.
Ring compression tool, Would that be like a really big set of cerclip pliers??? anyway Goggling that now.
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #10

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Yeah that is for when you install the pistons back in the cylinder, you will also want to look into getting a cylindrical ball hone to break the glaze on the cylinder wall. While the pistons are out you should mic the diameter of the cylinder to make sure it is still within spec. The rings come off of the pistons rather easily and you should be able to find some sort of youtube "how too" guide. If you have a lot of time on the timing chain you may want to consider replacing that as well as the oil pump. I would think those would be needed if you were upwards of 30k miles and have never replaced them before. its just good insurance while the motor is out. the connecting rod caps will need to be unbolted (mark them first to match them back up) after the head is removed, then light tapping with a wooden dowel on the under side of the piston out toward the head will get the piston(s) out. Just out of curiosity why do you need to re-ring?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yeah that is for when you install the pistons back in the cylinder, you will also want to look into getting a cylindrical ball hone to break the glaze on the cylinder wall. While the pistons are out you should mic the diameter of the cylinder to make sure it is still within spec. The rings come off of the pistons rather easily and you should be able to find some sort of youtube "how too" guide. If you have a lot of time on the timing chain you may want to consider replacing that as well as the oil pump. I would think those would be needed if you were upwards of 30k miles and have never replaced them before. its just good insurance while the motor is out. the connecting rod caps will need to be unbolted (mark them first to match them back up) after the head is removed, then light tapping with a wooden dowel on the under side of the piston out toward the head will get the piston(s) out. Just out of curiosity why do you need to re-ring?
I noticed the bike started to burn some oil in 2012,very little at first,
So last year I had the valve seals replaced.
In the hope it would fix the problem, but no luck.

Anyway It's getting worse, If my calculations are right, She burned about 4 oz's in the last 400 miles.

Odd thing is I've never seen any smoke, or felt a power loss.
BTW it's got 58,000 miles on it now, started this almost 20,000 miles back.
 

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Its not a tremendously difficult job for someone like you who has good mechanical skills, patients and attention to detail. There are pitfalls in that you never really know what you will find once you get it torn apart.

I would talk with the guys at Millennium Technologies about the cylinder lining and if/how to hone for new rings. Not sure what you get from Kawi when you get rings. Most aftermarket ring vendors will tell you what kind of surface you need for them to seal correctly. Might be worth paying a bit more to get the parts from Millennium if you can get some technical support from them too.

https://www.mt-llc.com

Also might be a good time to replace all the crank and rod bearings. Your going to have the rods out and the mains are right there when your doing this job.
 

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You have to pull the engine out of the frame

Take apart everything above the base gasket (throw the base gasket away-it is not needed, been running my zzr for 73,000 miles without it)

Rigid hone the cylinders, no dingleball bullshit deglazer hone will do. (you will find the cylinders are already out of round enough-why make it worse)

You don't need any special tools to remove or install the piston rings, none...well your precision fingers.
remove the pistons, so you can actually clean them properly

Make sure though that you check ring end gap-likely they will be plenty loose, but always a very good idea to check, .010" is enough on the ZZR

There is more to this than what I list, but this gives you the gist of the operation,

The only "special" tool you really need is the rigid hone and the knowledge to use it properly---but you likely could just take them to a engine shop and have them do it for you for under $40...( a good rigid hone will set you back close to $200??- I haven't had to price one in years) These are nikasil cylinders so you can only hone so much before you go through that coating- but is much more than one would think

But at 4 oz per 400 (1 qt every 3200+ miles) I wouldn't do a damn thing but ride it. You wasted time and money on the guide seals already don't throw good money after bad and waste even more.

I go through about 1/2 quart every 2000-2500 mile oil change interval and still make 108 hp with 73,000 miles on it.
 
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Smokey bike has more character ;) Have you considered a used engine?
So he can likely have transmission issues, clutch problems and an unknown service history (of abuse and neglect) no thanks....

Always cheaper to fix your own bike than take on someone elses problems
 
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