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butiwasgoingtotashistatio ntopickupsumpowerconvrtr
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Discussion Starter #1
i changed my oil today and, based on a tutorial, i used Mobil1 15W50 in my 2001 zx-6r. I did not change the filter, though it's possible it needed it. I just got the bike and the guy said all it needed was an oil change, i didn't ask about the filter.

the oil level was fine when i filled it and held the bike as level as i could. after running it for probably about an hour, the level was a little over the top mark.

also, after about an hour of riding after the change, i was sitting at a red light and it suddenly went kinda rough and then died. It restarted after a couple tries and i pulled into an eckerds like 20 yards down. i sat there for a while with it shut off and the temp read like 230*F. I waited until it was 199 then started again. It started right up and reved perfectly...so, i pulled out to sit at another red light. Then it died again. i walked it into a gas station right next to the light and waited until it was under 200 again and i switched to the reserve fuel (but i thought there was plenty of regular, but i'm not sure). It started right up (after probably 5 minutes) and i took it for about 10 minutes home with no problems at all.

At what temperature is the motor getting too hot? Will it start blinking or something?

Is full synthetic 15W50 an acceptable oil for this bike?

Is the reserve and main fuel kept in the same tank?

Could the oil being too full cause the bike to have problems?

I'm not that worried about it dieing every once in a while if that is normal, but i don't want to be doing anything wrong.

Sorry for my n00bness, i am learning a lot.
Thanks.
 

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you need a thicker oil the oil is getting too hot and will cause you problems with the internals..... flush all the oil back out and opt for something thicker , it shouldnt be getting so hot so quick! do you have a manual... this will list the acceptable grades of oil for the motor although this can change depending on where you live... have a chat with members in the same sort of area as you

the petrol tank holds the reserv and the main supply... when you fill it flows into both

your oils not too full.... as the oil gets hotter it will show as been more full and will settle back down as she cools back down.
so long as you filled her and she was at the full or jut under the mark shell be fine
 

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Negative captain 50 weight is very thick.

The 10w is the viscosity cold and the 50w is viscosity hot.

Most manufactures recommend 10W-40.

Secondly changing the oil and not changing the filter is like taking a shit and not wiping your ass. The filter is what catches the crap in the oil and the filter media is what gets clogged over time and restricts flow.

Go to the dealer and buy an OEM Kawi filter and some good 10W-40 motorcycle oil. Get the bike hot and open the oil drain plug, remove the filter and let the oil drain out.

Put your new filter on and add you new oil and you are good to go.

Also make sure to check that you cooling system is working.

Here are some good and filter oil reads.

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html

http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g2156.pdf
 

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yeah i was thinkin that about his thick oil but he was saying it was getting hot and only startin up when it dropped a bit? thats the bit thats getting me! it cant be just the filter causing this so am wondering, i forgot theses are water cooled my gixer is oil cooled so im wondering if you have checked the coolant etc
 

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Reserve and main are the same tank, just a different tube on the petcock. If it's getting too hot it might be a fuel vapor lock that is stopping it from running.
 

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butiwasgoingtotashistatio ntopickupsumpowerconvrtr
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Discussion Starter #6
thanks for the advice...i will be draining that oil out and getting some new oil in there with a filter. I bought a new filter that is the same kind as the one they used before i got the bike...it is a K&N 303 powersports filter so that should be fine. My problem is knowing what kind of oil to use.

I do not have an owners manual and could not find one online. I need someone with an 01 zx6r to tell me what to use..or i will ask at a local bike place. Also, is there a difference between the oil i buy at autozone (car oil i guess) and "motorcycle oil?" should i be buying this stuff from a bike place? Thanks. I hope to have it back in action asap with no problems.
 

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Buy a good quality 10W/40 motorcycle specific oil and you'll be good to go.

Buy a motorcycle specific oil over a car engine oil because you know the motocycle oil is designed to be used with a wet clutch. Car oils aren't and some might cause problems with slippage. Also car oils aren't meant to go through the gear box and have their VI chains cut up either.
 

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butiwasgoingtotashistatio ntopickupsumpowerconvrtr
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Discussion Starter #8
Buy a good quality 10W/40 motorcycle specific oil and you'll be good to go.

Buy a motorcycle specific oil over a car engine oil because you know the motocycle oil is designed to be used with a wet clutch. Car oils aren't and some might cause problems with slippage. Also car oils aren't meant to go through the gear box and have their VI chains cut up either.
I love quick responses. THANKS. Is full synthetic good to use (i assume it is)?

Finally, i was basing the 15W50 off of this tutorial...the guy lists the four his manual recomends for a 2000 zx6r so i figured it'd be the same for an 01. You are sure a 10W40 will be good though, yea?
 

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As long as you're not running it in, synthetic is good. :thumbup

10W/40 is thinner than 20W/50 - I'd use the thicker stuff in an engine that was worn.

I don't think the oil is your temperature problem, but if it is, the thinner 10W/40 is going to be easier to pump and will cause less internal losses that contribute to engine heat.
 

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kahearn-- i have a manual i downloaded on line if you know how i can send it to you i will.... i dont know if i can email it? its a big file.... i will try remember where i downloaded it from though! :)
 

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kahearn-- i have a manual i downloaded on line if you know how i can send it to you i will.... i dont know if i can email it? its a big file.... i will try remember where i downloaded it from though! :)
Don't forget the File Vault for all your manual needs :)
 

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Hello Kyle,

Looks like me and you are in almost the same situation.

I bought a 2001 j2 yesterday and whn got it home noticed the oil was low.

I had previously bought this http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI....MEWN:IT&viewitem=&item=180132469035&rd=1&rd=1 service and manual for the ninjas and it recomended 10-40 or 20-40 oil.

I topped up ok, to the top line on the clear glass, (cold) after leaving bike idel for a few mins to alow new oil to flow i noticed the oil was over the maximum covering the oil window, i left itlonger and oil reduced back to about 3/4. I was told this was normal and not to really worry about it.

I used 10/40 car oil, i didnt even know you could get motorcycle oil, looks like im doing a full engine oil change next weekend. I might even get new spark plugs.

Buy that CD from ebay, 363pages cramed full of everything you will need to know, fantasic and well worth the £5.


EDITED!!!! Actually dont buy the manual i posted on this thread cos ifs IDENTICAL to Quarkz's link above in the file vault.
 

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butiwasgoingtotashistatio ntopickupsumpowerconvrtr
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Discussion Starter #16
thanks to everyone. I got the manual thanks to the links and will be draining out all that brand new $6.50/quart oil i just put in :( oh well, the added cost is definately worth paying to keep the bike in prime condition.

You guys know at what temperature i should shut it down?
It actually dropped in temperature quite a bit as i rode home...i dont really know what the deal was with it rising while i was stopped at the red lights, but i watched it all the way home and it consistently dropped and was well under 200 when i got home...so, hopefully no cooling problems, the guy i bought it from said he just flushed the radiator.

Also, i was planning on changing the filter when i changed the oil but one of the hexagon screw things that holds the fairing on was totally stripped by a previous owner i guess..a suggestion for its removal would be great, or i will just do it without taking off the fairing if i can.
 

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the guy i bought it from said he just flushed the radiator.

Bingo!

I'd just about put money on it that there is or was an airlock in the system. Check the level in the radiator (and the overlow bottle). It might have burped by now, if not read that manual on coolant changing and see if there are specific instructions on how to refill the cooling system and getting all the air out of it.

I wonder if the radiator is blocked or there was a previous problem? Why would he flush the radiator before seling it?

Make sure it has inhibitor anti freeze / anti boil in it too.

I don't know what the book says, but I'd be shutting down at 120+ (~248)
 

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butiwasgoingtotashistatio ntopickupsumpowerconvrtr
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Discussion Starter #18
well, it now has Mobil 1 10W40 Racing 4T or something like that and a new KN 303 filter.

I'm not sure, but i don't think there is a cooling problem. I will watch it very carefully, but so far it looks good.

thanks again to all you guys, especially Steve.
 

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Hi, the 10w40 oil is good,
This is what the manual says;

Grade: SE, SF or SG class

Viscosity: SAE 10W40, 10W50, 20W40, OR 20W50

Capacity: 3.4L (3.6 US qt ) {When filter is not removed}
3.6L (3.8 US qt ) {When filter is removed }
4.0L (4.2 US qt ) {When engine is completely dry }

Hope this will help.... :cheers
 
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