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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, I'm having this weird problem with my bike, it all started about two weeks ago when I left the gym, I started the bike up and I heard this ticking noise from the engine and FI light came on.
I thought the oil level might just be too low and I don't ride it that much so I figured it's time for an oil change.

Changed the oil and filter and now sometimes the bike will start up and the FI light isn't on, I let it warm up and when I rev it a little bit the bike dies.
Other times the bike will start up, the FI light comes on and right when it starts up it sounds like the bike revs by itself like the throttle is stuck or something, but only for a split second and then idles steady.

I opened the bike up earlier today, removed the air box and everything to see if something is stuck with the throttle cables and just to take a look inside but everything looks fine, bike has no leaks or anything, what could be the cause for this?

It's a '13 zx6r with less then 12k miles on it.
Thanks in advance.
 

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It could be from someone putting something in your oil while you was in the gym. What's the correct way to check the oil on that bike and what was the last thing done to it (from washing it to adjusting the suspension)?
 

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It could be from someone putting something in your oil while you was in the gym. What's the correct way to check the oil on that bike and what was the last thing done to it (from washing it to adjusting the suspension)?


The correct way to check the oil is to have the bike on both front/rear work stands so that the bike is level - not tipped over on the side stand. The bike should have been left alone for a few moments since last having the engine operating - allowing the oil to drain from the top end. There are two horizontal lines cast in the case at the sight window. The oil level should be between the two lines.

Yet, one more reason to invest in safety wire and respective specialty pliers and optional plastic tubing, and a few small drill bits.

Now I don't know Dean93's character, but since he's on a 636, I'll give him the benefit of doubt, and say he's a fine upstanding member of his community. Thus, has given no one just cause to perform nefarious acts upon his treasured bike. But, it goes without saying, there are any number of sociopaths in any community who have no need for cause in order to do shitty things to good people.


BTW, if I were a betting man - which I am not, I'd say Dean93's problem are not dino-juice contaminants.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
I'm pretty sure that no one has touched my bike while I gone, it was very early in the morning and not too many people were there.

I also take a look at my bike every 10-15 mins since I can actually see it from inside the gym so it's very unlikely that somebody messed with my bike while I was in there.

That day was only the day I noticed the ticking noise from the engine, that's why I started to worry but the FI light did come on once before, I thought it was cause my bike was on the side stand and when I sat on it and turned it off and on again it was gone so that's another reason I thought it was just a low level of engine oil.

What could be the reason that the bike starts up just fine and when I rev it a little it dies?
I thought I'll ask here maybe someone had that before or know what would cause it, but I think I can ride it to a dealership and have them check the FI code and tell me exactly what the problem is.
 

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U can check the FI code yourself. Thats prolly the first thing u shouldve done.


Turn your key on. Display the odometer. Press and hold the MODE button for like 3 seconds and the code will display.

Let us know what it says.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
U can check the FI code yourself. Thats prolly the first thing u shouldve done.


Turn your key on. Display the odometer. Press and hold the MODE button for like 3 seconds and the code will display.

Let us know what it says.
Well crap, didn't know that, thank you I sure will!
 

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Early production '13s are known for issues with cold idle. There should be a number of threads on this site about it.

May be a recall to get the ECU replaced to correct it. I know one adjustment often suggested is to increase idle speed a couple hundred RPM.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Early production '13s are known for issues with cold idle. There should be a number of threads on this site about it.

May be a recall to get the ECU replaced to correct it. I know one adjustment often suggested is to increase idle speed a couple hundred RPM.
I'm familiar with this issue, but from what I've seen, bikes with that problem don't really start up in the first place.
My bike starts right up every time, sometimes with the FI light on sometimes with it off, and it won't die unless I start revving it.
 

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If you're convinced it's not the ECU, then your next most likely option is the fuel pump. The screen clogs from the bottom up over time. When you rev hard and the demand for fuel increases, you eventually starve for fuel.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So I'm looking to buy a new ECU for my bike and I've found couple on eBay for a good price but my question is, will it be ok to install a non CA model ECU on a CA model bike?
Btw I've removed the EVAP system from the bike long time ago.
 

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So I'm looking to buy a new ECU for my bike and I've found couple on eBay for a good price but my question is, will it be ok to install a non CA model ECU on a CA model bike?
Btw I've removed the EVAP system from the bike long time ago.
Yeah...no difference in the ECU's. Just make sure its not from overseas because those ECU's might have the immobilizer function built in and u cant start it unless u have the master key.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
So I did read the code and the resistor was out of range so I replaced the ECU with a new one I found on eBay.

Now code 39 is gone, I have the codes for the exhaust, air valve and EVAP only because this ECU is not flashed yet.

Although, I still have a little problem, my bike starts up fine now and idles steady, if I rev it lightly and release the throttle quickly few times it dies but if I give it some gas and release it doesn't.
 

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since the 2013’s have that known problem from the factory .... could the new ECU be plagued by the same “defect?”

When I had the ECU flashed on my ‘12 they put a new fueling map in it - not just disable features or change the max rpm/ lower the cooling fan “on temp.” I wonder if a flash tune would help?

Oh, and raising the idle speed might be something to experiment with.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I haven't touched the idle speed, I always start my bike up and I let it get to 140 before I get on it.
I noticed that the bike idles higher until it gets to 140 and then it lowers a little bit but staying steady.
I figured now since code 39 is not showing anymore, maybe this ECU is actually good.
 

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since the 2013’s have that known problem from the factory .... could the new ECU be plagued by the same “defect?”

When I had the ECU flashed on my ‘12 they put a new fueling map in it - not just disable features or change the max rpm/ lower the cooling fan “on temp.” I wonder if a flash tune would help?

Oh, and raising the idle speed could help.
I altered my post....
 
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