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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all. I just joined this forum a few days ago when I got my first zx6r. The bike was a steal and I'm starting to find out why. Firstly I checked the oil and it was nearly 2 quarts low. So I filled her up temporarily. Also noticed the cct was more then likely loose from some clicking. And so I adjusted the cct one click. Bike sounded great after I did that work. Rode her to dinner and on the way back gave her a little in second gear on the highway. As soon as I was done with the pull I heard a very loud tapping noise through my helmet at 80mph. It was very intermittent when cruising. As I lay on the throttle a bit it would get more consistent. Rode her all the way home and every time I would come to a stop and clutch in my oil light would flash a few times. I adjusted the idle up a bit and that fixed the issue. I have since changed the oil completely and I'm in the middle of tearing her down and just got the valve cover off.. What could this be? I'll post a video of the noise as soon as I get her all back together if I don't get it fixed. The tapping is non existent at idle and starts bad at 3.5 to 4k. And up. Also get a very heavy hesitation under acceleration at 6k. One more thing to note is as soon as I changed the oil. There was no tapping until I rode it. Then it started again.
 

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Sounds like something having to do with cylinder timing. You can try going up in octane to see if that helps get rid of the knock but it sounds like something more complex especially with the condition you received the bike. Good luck and please post an update when you get it figured out. Hopefully somebody else on here can give you a better idea.
 

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^ or better yet, cut the end off the filter hosing and pull out the filter element itself and yank the paper off the steel core and see how much and what kind of metal is in there.

If it was run 2 qts shy it could easily be a rod bearing or any number of issues

While you have the valve cover off looking at valve clearances, pay close attention to the cam lobes, cam journals, cam caps, cylinder head and even the teeth on the cam sprockets

and then adjust the cam chain tensioner as per the oe service manual.......you know-- the right way !
 
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Discussion Starter #6
Okay so. Put the valve cover back on. Didn't fine anything crazy in there that I should worry about. However I decided to do a compression test. I tested from right to left and it goes:
1: 150
2:160
3:145
4:155

These are all slightly low but the bike has not been run for over 24 hours. So it's cold. I also looking into the spark plug holes and i noticed the tops of the Pistons look... how dirty and gritty. Like they have a coating of oil and dirt on them. Is that normal?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I didn't have time to do the tensioner. As I had to get the bike together and out of my buddies garage by tonight.
 

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FYI, don't ride that bike anymore until you check those as well as tearing the filter apart as RiverZZR mentioned. Unless of course you feel like posting a "2007 part out" thread in the classifieds section.
 

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Could also be a partly clogged oil port. Not sure if bikes use this or just use crank splash but have come across it in autos. Enough oil gets though the clogged port at low RPM but as revs go up so does demand at not enough flows to cover it. :O
 

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^ not likely

^^ or he may have a "2007/08 ZX6R engine needed" thread coming soon

^^^ what was the point of getting in there that far and not spending the additional 15 minutes and $5 in feelers?.......... or since you found nothing and know something is wrong, why put it back on before delving further

Someone mentioned; some of these did the~ crush the valve shim into the stem issue... measuring valve clearances would have alerted in a positive or negative to this immediately !

you are working, but not thinking through the work you are doing, or the why, or knowing what to look for.......... you need better planning and execution so you don't keep spinning your fucking wheels around and getting nowhere
 
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Discussion Starter #13
In response. your right I didn't spend the 5 dollars and extra 15 minutes. But my bike was in my buddies garage and i needed to get it out. I also had to have everything put together and get home by 7pm so I was on a time crunch. I should have checked but to be perfectly honest the valve cover was fairly easy to do so if I have to do it again no biggie. How much do you guys think I'll get if I part out :oops: :O
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
So the shim is what separates the top if the valve and valve spring to the cam lobe correct? So one of those may have been pushed through? I'm trying to comprehend this. Also.. How much should I expect to pay to do a valve adjustment through a shop. I had the kawasaki dealer here tell me 600. Which seemed kinda steep...
 

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In response. your right I didn't spend the 5 dollars and extra 15 minutes. But my bike was in my buddies garage and i needed to get it out. I also had to have everything put together and get home by 7pm so I was on a time crunch. I should have checked but to be perfectly honest the valve cover was fairly easy to do so if I have to do it again no biggie. How much do you guys think I'll get if I part out :oops: :O
There really is no way to tell what you'll get in terms of a part out. The motor would pretty much be a lost cause. I'd head to eBay and see what the parts are going for. It sounds like there are only a few things left to do in order to isolate your issue. Checking valve clearances and splitting the oil filter open to inspect would be on the top of that list. That will usually tell you all that you need to know. Plus, if your valves are out of spec, you can easily shim them and save your top end. If there's metal in the oil filter, you more than likely have serious bottom end issues. Start with the valve clearances and do it the right way.

So the shim is what separates the top if the valve and valve spring to the cam lobe correct? So one of those may have been pushed through? I'm trying to comprehend this.
You will find in your service manual that there is a valve, shim and a bucket. Here is a free download

http://zx6r.com/service-manuals/12595-2007-2008-kawasaki-zx-6r-service-manual.html
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Awesome. Thanks for that. It sounds like the top end more then anything and I didn't see any metal shavings in my oil. I even drained it through a coffee filter. But it could have floated to the bottom and i wouldn't have noticed. My filter is still at my buddies house. I'll get over there tonight and tear it apart and post my findings. I'm really thinking it's A valve issue from the location of the noise and the way it sounds. I can always post a video as well to see if you guys notice it. Obviously that requires me to start the bike which I'm really even hesitant to do because if I were to drop a valve that turns my low dollar repair into a new engine.
 

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Awesome. Thanks for that. It sounds like the top end more then anything and I didn't see any metal shavings in my oil. I even drained it through a coffee filter. But it could have floated to the bottom and i wouldn't have noticed. My filter is still at my buddies house. I'll get over there tonight and tear it apart and post my findings. I'm really thinking it's A valve issue from the location of the noise and the way it sounds. I can always post a video as well to see if you guys notice it. Obviously that requires me to start the bike which I'm really even hesitant to do because if I were to drop a valve that turns my low dollar repair into a new engine.
Yeah, don't worry about a video. Just get some angled feelers and check the clearances according to the service manual. Right now it sounds like you are still in the clear, but if you drop a valve and tear up the top end you are f***ed. Hopefully you've caught it in time.
 

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^ except for that.... it was being driven 2 quarts for low on oil for who knows how long part.... and of course the knock which at this point could be numerous things, but knocks- never good, never easy to fix and never cheap
 

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^ except for that.... it was being driven 2 quarts for low on oil for who knows how long part.... and of course the knock which at this point could be numerous things, but knocks- never good, never easy to fix and never cheap
Good point, but I think he has gotten the point to NOT start or ride it right now. Let's just start with the valve clearances RiversZZR. Baby steps...
 

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Discussion Starter #20
If it was rod knock. It would be more of a KNOCK. Not a heavy tap? And the noise tap is very noticeable on deceleration. Very. And not as on acceleration until about 4k. which was odd to me. I plan on paying a shop 350 bucks for a valve adjustment or to fix the valve shims if they are as bad as They may be. Is this worth while? If that fixes my problem I'm good. But if it doesn't. That means rod knock. And my motor needs a rebuild. And I'm out the 350. I'm at a crossroads.
 
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