Hi I bought a new 2014 zx6r and I was wondering what should I do to it and adjust on it any suggestions please anything helps thank you
Welcome to the forum!!Raise the idle to help with it starting up. Bike only needs 89 octane.
I run my idle about 200 RPMs over what is recommended. No starting issues since.
Sit on the bike, in your 'natural' seating position.... whtever that is, you need that to be the most comfortable and efficient way you can sit on the bike. The hand levers and foot controls are all adjustable, to suit different sized hands and feet.Hi I bought a new 2014 zx6r and I was wondering what should I do to it and adjust on it any suggestions please anything helps thank you
Just so we are clear, unless your bike is set up to run on higher octane fuel the only thing you are burning is the money in your wallet.Welcome to the forum!!
What's the highest octane u guys get over their? We have at least 95 but can get 97-99 in most places now
I always recommend modifying the rider first. Start with the MSF course first, then Total Control, and California Superbike School. YOU are the most valuable part of the riding system, invest in yourself.:bigthumb:Hi I bought a new 2014 zx6r and I was wondering what should I do to it and adjust on it any suggestions please anything helps thank you
Yep, my mr2 turbo was mapped to run 97+....any lower and my ecu detects knock if on high boost...as you said lower octane ignites easier hense bigger chance in pre ignition...was just curious as to what u guys get over theirJust so we are clear, unless your bike is set up to run on higher octane fuel the only thing you are burning is the money in your wallet.
There is a general misconception that running higher octane fuel produces more power which is entirely untrue. All it does is prevent pre-detonation in high compression engines. In fact, higher octane fuels are more difficult to ignite, requiring a more defined spark so when you really get up there in the octane rating it can actually run worse and lose power if you aren't set up to run it.
Case in point, arguably the best fuel out there right now is VP MR12 which can boost performance by 5%+ just by running it...is 87 motor octane or 93 R+M/2.
As long as the RON+MON/2 is 90+, you are good to go. Ethanol is not really your friend, but it's not the end of the world, either. I wouldn't want to store a bike for months on end without using a fuel conditioner of some kind if I had to store it with gasoline which has ethanol in it, but running it every day, I wouldn't be concerned. You get slightly better MPG without alcohol.So then my bike says 90+ octane should I run 92 non ethinol or 92 with ethinol ?
Ok awesome thank yoi so muchAs long as the RON+MON/2 is 90+, you are good to go. Ethanol is not really your friend, but it's not the end of the world, either. I wouldn't want to store a bike for months on end without using a fuel conditioner of some kind if I had to store it with gasoline which has ethanol in it, but running it every day, I wouldn't be concerned. You get slightly better MPG without alcohol.
As you are in Oregon, sign up for the ART through Team Oregon. It's taught at Pat's Acres on a shifter go-kart track, near Wilsonville. The goal of the course is to teach you how to stop on a curve without losing control, and how to carve a corner rather than hack at it. Some of the most fun you can have with your clothes on. At least, until the cruisers get in the way.Ya I took the course
Well thank you I will definitely look into itAnother of the more important investments you can make to keep your bike operational as possible, is to invest in some sort of bodywork protection. This is typically done with 'sliders' -- something to hit the ground before the plastics do. Gravity is a constant, our attention is not. Sooner or later gravity wins.
Sliders come in a few varieties... 'no cut' and 'cut' are the most common. The cautionary statement with sliders is that they are really only meant to protect the plastics in the event of a low speed tip over. Parking lot, walking speed sorts of things. In those cases the plastic tip 'slides' on the pavement sacrificing itself instead of the bike.
Higher speed mishaps can be made worse, due to the design of the typical slider. As most of these designs use an engine mounting bolt location to insert a longer bolt to hold the slider, the slider itself can impart a levering force to the mounting point. The frame was not designed with this force in mind. If the bike hits something that is more solid than the slider body as it is sliding, the bolt may bend, or snap off, or yank the threads out of the frame..... or crack the frame.
Frame rails use 3 points of contact to spread those forces out and prevent frame damage. Some slider designs are a hybrid, which use a 3 point plate that the actual slider mounts to. SATO RACING | Engine Sliders - Kawasaki ZX-6R ('09-'12) is one of the designs I think does the best job of addressing this. http://www.gbracing.eu/Kawasaki.110/Ninja-ZX-6R-636-2013-2015.343/Engine-Protection.344/ is another design that I think is above average in terms of how it will protect the bike.
Either solution is more expensive than the cheapest option.... in truth I have neither of these on my bike, or any other type of protection. I will jynx myself saying I havn't had need of this on this bike in the 20K miles I have ridden it so far -- I have in fact crashed 3 of the 6 motorcycles I have owned, so it seems likely this one will eventually suffer as well.....