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Discussion Starter #1
So I'm not sure what happened. My headlights aren't getting power on my 2014 636.

I checked with my test light the leads that plug right into the H7 Bulb and I get nothing on either side. I originally thought it was my HID setup, but its not as they're not getting a signal to come on. Neither the low beam side nor the high beam side. I checked the fuse & its good & it's getting a through signal with my test light. When I flip on my high beams, I don't get the blue high beam indicator light on my dash either. And I am bumping the starter or letting it run before checking since the headlights don't come on until the starter has atleast been bumped.

So I did some thinking in it and I narrowed it down to it being between the fuse box & the headlight plug so I figured it was my relay box. I mean, what else could it be? So I bought a used one off eBay & just got it in. Plugged it in & same thing. I can't imagine both being faulty.

So the only thing I can imagine it would be is my ECU, but everything else is OK. I did do a stupid rookie/squid move... My bike has been apart all winter. I wasn't thinking and I started the bike upn without the rectifier & the "alternator" box connected (that's what Kawasaki calls the lower box next to the rectifier in the Service Manual.) I know what the rectifier is for so I know not to do that. I just wasn't thinking.

Anyone have any other ideas hefore I blow $150 on an ECU on eBay?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes
 

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The coil of relay that allows power to the low beam circuit has to be energized to send juice to your HID ballast. If you've taken stuff apart, odds are highest that you missed making a connection. Might be on the return side, rather than the 'power' leg. An open anywhere on the circuit will stop it from working.

Clean and reseat the chassis ground wires.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
NEW DEVELOPMENT

So I took the bike out for its first ride. Got a brand new very expensive, high output Shorai LFX-18 320A Lithium Ion Battery in it. It's big & barely fits. Wanted a battery with as much reserve capacity as possible to handle leaving my halos on for a couple hours without any issues.

Well after 20 minutes, my battery light came on, so I booked it home. 3 blocks away, I had to switch off my headlights.

FYI, I hooked up my HID Relay Harness to an automotive switch on the right side & ky high beam input (goes to my MH1 Bi-Xenon Solenoids) on another switch on the right side. Kinda a pain to switch my high beams on & off, but atleast it works. It's getting power straight from the battery.

So I BARELY make it home. Dash went out & I killed it and rolled up to my garage door.

So it's not charging. Rectifier/Alternator box is hooked up. I don't know what's going on.

I'll check my grounds tomorrow. I don't know what other connection there is others than up front where the DRL, headlight & turn signals all connect in the rubber boots on each side of the headlights.
Oh, and my DRL's aren't coming on either.

As I mentioned earlier, the fuse for the headlight is getting power in & out @ the fuse box.

Does the ECU control any of this or is it all triggered in that relay box I just swapped out?
 

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Charging system is completely independent of the ECU. Troubleshoot that, first. Process is laid out well, in the shop manual. Stator output in ACV. Must have all three phases, near equal values. No mas, replace stator.

R/R output in DCV. Good AC in, should result in more than 12 VDC out.... Never to exceed 14.3 VDC.

Weird stuff happens when the charging system dies.

A bigger battery that can discharge for a longer period doesn't improve your charging system. The strain of filling the bigger battery from the same sized alternator simply means it runs wfo longer. Max output longer = max heat longer = accelerated stator failure.

battery depletion is drain * time. Watt / hours. Amp/hours times voltage = Watt/hrs. A little drain for a long time can equal a big drain for a short time.
 

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As RJ said, figure out your charging issue first before you try to figure out any of the lights.
 

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You might also consider putting your extra electrical load on a stand alone battery. The charging system can handle something like 100 Watts of excess load to design..... Don't make the alternator charge that battery. Have a charge port set up so you can plug that battery into an external charger only.

Your HIDs are already taxing the alternator, simply from the inrush current to charge the ballasts. If you have a bunch of LED lights, stereo, radar detector, etc. on top of that....... expect to become proficient at replacing the stator.
 
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