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Discussion Starter #1
So I'm not sure what happened. My headlights aren't getting power on my 2014 636.

I checked with my test light the leads that plug right into the H7 Bulb and I get nothing on either side. I originally thought it was my HID setup, but its not as they're not getting a signal to come on. Neither the low beam side nor the high beam side. I checked the fuse & its good & it's getting a through signal with my test light. When I flip on my high beams, I don't get the blue high beam indicator light on my dash either. And I am bumping the starter or letting it run before checking since the headlights don't come on until the starter has atleast been bumped.

So I did some thinking in it and I narrowed it down to it being between the fuse box & the headlight plug so I figured it was my relay box. I mean, what else could it be? So I bought a used one off eBay & just got it in. Plugged it in & same thing. I can't imagine both being faulty.

So the only thing I can imagine it would be is my ECU, but everything else is OK. I did do a stupid rookie/squid move... My bike has been apart all winter. I wasn't thinking and I started the bike upn without the rectifier & the "alternator" box connected (that's what Kawasaki calls the lower box next to the rectifier in the Service Manual.) I know what the rectifier is for so I know not to do that. I just wasn't thinking.

Anyone have any other ideas hefore I blow $150 on an ECU on eBay?
 

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I am presuming you are talking about once the bike has started, rather than with only the ignition on (before starting)?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes
 

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The coil of relay that allows power to the low beam circuit has to be energized to send juice to your HID ballast. If you've taken stuff apart, odds are highest that you missed making a connection. Might be on the return side, rather than the 'power' leg. An open anywhere on the circuit will stop it from working.

Clean and reseat the chassis ground wires.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
NEW DEVELOPMENT

So I took the bike out for its first ride. Got a brand new very expensive, high output Shorai LFX-18 320A Lithium Ion Battery in it. It's big & barely fits. Wanted a battery with as much reserve capacity as possible to handle leaving my halos on for a couple hours without any issues.

Well after 20 minutes, my battery light came on, so I booked it home. 3 blocks away, I had to switch off my headlights.

FYI, I hooked up my HID Relay Harness to an automotive switch on the right side & ky high beam input (goes to my MH1 Bi-Xenon Solenoids) on another switch on the right side. Kinda a pain to switch my high beams on & off, but atleast it works. It's getting power straight from the battery.

So I BARELY make it home. Dash went out & I killed it and rolled up to my garage door.

So it's not charging. Rectifier/Alternator box is hooked up. I don't know what's going on.

I'll check my grounds tomorrow. I don't know what other connection there is others than up front where the DRL, headlight & turn signals all connect in the rubber boots on each side of the headlights.
Oh, and my DRL's aren't coming on either.

As I mentioned earlier, the fuse for the headlight is getting power in & out @ the fuse box.

Does the ECU control any of this or is it all triggered in that relay box I just swapped out?
 

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Charging system is completely independent of the ECU. Troubleshoot that, first. Process is laid out well, in the shop manual. Stator output in ACV. Must have all three phases, near equal values. No mas, replace stator.

R/R output in DCV. Good AC in, should result in more than 12 VDC out.... Never to exceed 14.3 VDC.

Weird stuff happens when the charging system dies.

A bigger battery that can discharge for a longer period doesn't improve your charging system. The strain of filling the bigger battery from the same sized alternator simply means it runs wfo longer. Max output longer = max heat longer = accelerated stator failure.

battery depletion is drain * time. Watt / hours. Amp/hours times voltage = Watt/hrs. A little drain for a long time can equal a big drain for a short time.
 

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As RJ said, figure out your charging issue first before you try to figure out any of the lights.
 

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You might also consider putting your extra electrical load on a stand alone battery. The charging system can handle something like 100 Watts of excess load to design..... Don't make the alternator charge that battery. Have a charge port set up so you can plug that battery into an external charger only.

Your HIDs are already taxing the alternator, simply from the inrush current to charge the ballasts. If you have a bunch of LED lights, stereo, radar detector, etc. on top of that....... expect to become proficient at replacing the stator.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I don't have a ton of accessories. I only have the 3 pairs of halos. The radar detector hasn't been plugged in yet.

I understand the HID's pull a ton of amps at start up, but otherwise, it's still only using 50 watts per ballasts which are exactly what the factory halogen bulbs run off of. So it can't be the HID's. Ive been running this HID & Halo setup for the past 4 years with no issues. Ive also taken my bike apart numerous times, but someyhing happened over the winter & I don't know what it is.

The charging system issue & headlight issues happened all at once so it has to be connected. I am focusing on the charging system.
And I understand batteries. Either way, I needed a bigger capacity battery. It cant be the battery either, because I've only had it kn for a total of half an hour. My last battery was shot because I accidentally left my halos on for too long, too many times.

I'm thinking it might be the stator at this time. I'll have to do some testing on it now. But if it is, then I have to replace both the stator & rectifier. If one goes bad, you have to replace the other with it. That I know.

I honestly thoughtbit was a bad ground. The other day after replying, I got to thinking & I remembered one of my grounds, that goes to the frame between the throttle bodies & the battery, broke off at the eyelet. I couldnt remember if I fixed it or not so I just checked it & it was fixed. But I wasn't for sure if all 4 wires were making a good connection so I redid it. I started the bike up again and still the same issues with no headlights & DRL's. After 5 minutes of running, the battery light came on again. And now my brand new $240 battery doesn't want to take a charger from the Shorai battery charger. It's giving me an error.

Again, I'm thinking it's a stator/rectifier problem. I'll check the manual for a troubleshoot test, but I don't know what else it could be.
 

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50 watt HID’s on a bike are overkill in my opinion.

But anyway, use some jumper cables and hook up your bike to your car battery. Dont turn on the car though!

Start the bike and measure the voltage at the battery terminals on the bike. It should read close to 14v. If its 12v or below, you got a charging system problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
How are 50w HID's overkill? 35w is way too dim. Plus, I'm running Morimoto Mini H1 7.0 No-Xenon projectors, not running an HID kit in the OEM halogen projectors. Im actually upgrading the headlights from the MH1's to G5-EX with D3S projectors this winter. Already bought everything I need. I don't see how 50w is too much for a bike, but is ok in coverage for a car. I guess it's ok for me to hit a deer at night, but in a car, it's not?


Sent from my LM-V405 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well... I cant believe it. I fixed it. I went ahead and bought an OEM Stator, Rectifier & new gasket just incase my headings on my Multi-Meter were bad. Got to taking off the insert piece, then the top Alternator (grey) plug and BAM! There it was. My black plug wasn't plugged in all the way. I couldn't believe it. I feel like such a squid. I was in a rush putting it back together. I have so many connections right there with my 3 sets if halos, my HID Ballast, HID bulb, HID Splitters... I must of unplugged it & forgot to plug it back in. I unplugged everything about a dozen times, trying to route one set of wires under these j around those & repeat. Guess that's what happens when you tear apart your bike & don't mess with it for 3 years.

So.. I now have an OEM Stator, OEM Rectifier & gasket if anyone needs the set

Sent from my LM-V405 using Tapatalk
 

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How are 50w HID's overkill? 35w is way too dim. Plus, I'm running Morimoto Mini H1 7.0 No-Xenon projectors, not running an HID kit in the OEM halogen projectors. Im actually upgrading the headlights from the MH1's to G5-EX with D3S projectors this winter. Already bought everything I need. I don't see how 50w is too much for a bike, but is ok in coverage for a car. I guess it's ok for me to hit a deer at night, but in a car, it's not?


Sent from my LM-V405 using Tapatalk
Glad u got it fixed. I have 35w on my bike and it lights up the road pretty damn good. So I dont see a need to go higher. So u are still running halogen bulbs?
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
No. I'm running Morimoto Mini H1 7.0 Hi-Xenon Projectors, Morimoto 50w Ballasts, Morimoto Dual HID Relay & Morimoto XB H1 6000K Bulbs.

When i first bought the bike, I swapped out the halogen bulbs for a full Morimoto HID Setup, but when winter came, I did a full Bi-Xenon Projector Retrofit

To me, since bikes don't have as much real estate, the headlights are much smaller so you have to resort to much smaller projectors which means less beam coverage, output & spread. So you have to resort to high output 50w ballasts. Here, not having a good headlight setup means hitting a cow or a deer. Already lost my best friend to hitting a horse just a few miles north of my house.
 
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