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Discussion Starter #1
It would seem my bearings have gone on my 2008 model ZX
is has 12.5k miles, me having had it for the last 2!

Is this a normal amount of miles, or has the thing spent most of its life up and down on the back wheel??

How easy a change are they do DIY?

Cheers
 

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They come with precious little grease right off the assembly line, but this is extremely short life, so maybe it spent much time up and down as you say.

A competant mechanically inclined person can do the job. You will have to get the entire front end off the ground without using a triple tree stand or fork stand
You do have to press the lower race off the triple tree stem (or some do cut it in half if careful not to go all the way through and into the stem itself)
 
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The bottom bearing is the PITA. It's pressed on and can be very difficult to remove and replace. They can be cut off as mentioned above. Any competent machine shop should be able to do it for pretty cheap if you bring them the parts. The races can be driven out and into the frame with a long brass drift and a bearing driver or a large socket to use as one.

If you want to give the lower bearing a try yourself installing them can take some creativity in finding something to use as a driver. If you put the stem in the freezer for a few hour and the bearing in an oven for a bit you can sometimes get them fall right on with little or no force.
 

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Oh, and yes, 12.5k miles is a ridiculously short life. With good maintenance they can almost last the realistic life of the motorcycle. My ZRX has 32k miles on them and they look almost brand new when they are serviced.
 

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So the hardest part is to remove the race from the head tube. It is just like a bicycle headset except getting to it is the problem?
 

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Its involved but the Natbrown is on the money there are some tricks to make life easier.

Its a short life for them for sure but if the bike was kept outside it can make them go out quicker as the water can seep in there esp if there is very little grease.

I have also seen on a few bikes where they were not torqued down properly so pulling them repacking the bearings then reseating and torquing them got rid of the play.
 

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If you possess the mechanical ability to remove the triples from the bike, then you can surely do the rest. All you need is a long drift (12" or so) to drive the bearings out of the headstock and you can use a broad head chisel to get the lower race off the tube, or if you have a dremel you can simply cut a slot into it and give it a whack with the same chisel, it should split and make removal a piece of cake.

You then use a pipe of the right inner diameter to go over the tube but still sit on the bearing race to press it back into place.

A high quality grease is your friend upon reassembly and it will keep you from having to do this again in a few years. I personally use Amsoil Dominator grease although I have heard good things about Valvoline Syn Power grease as well but havent had the opportunity to try it. Oh, and allballs.com for all your bearings. Top quality stuff.
 

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If you possess the mechanical ability to remove the triples from the bike, then you can surely do the rest. All you need is a long drift (12" or so) to drive the bearings out of the headstock and you can use a broad head chisel to get the lower race off the tube, or if you have a dremel you can simply cut a slot into it and give it a whack with the same chisel, it should split and make removal a piece of cake.

You then use a pipe of the right inner diameter to go over the tube but still sit on the bearing race to press it back into place.

A high quality grease is your friend upon reassembly and it will keep you from having to do this again in a few years. I personally use Amsoil Dominator grease although I have heard good things about Valvoline Syn Power grease as well but havent had the opportunity to try it. Oh, and allballs.com for all your bearings. Top quality stuff.

Also I think there is a spanner or something they weird wrenches for screwing in the fork through the headtube.
 

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What is the front wheel hex size?
Not sure, I just reverse a small crescent wrench and use the handle end. I adjust the clamps on the wrench so my ratchet handle fits in there and I can use it as a t-wrench. I've had the forks off/on this bike more times than I care to count and this method has always worked great.
 

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Not sure, I just reverse a small crescent wrench and use the handle end. I adjust the clamps on the wrench so my ratchet handle fits in there and I can use it as a t-wrench. I've had the forks off/on this bike more times than I care to count and this method has always worked great.
Can you post a pic of how you do this please?
 

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Use 2 of these. Its a regular spark plug socket u can get from autozone for cheap. The back side is a perfect fit for the front wheel hex. U can insert an extension in there and turn it with a wrench. U have to hold one side while ur turning the other or ur axle might just keep spinning. Someone on this forum suggested this method... i forgot who it was tho.

 

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Use 2 of these. Its a regular spark plug socket u can get from autozone for cheap. The back side is a perfect fit for the front wheel hex. U can insert an extension in there and turn it with a wrench. U have to hold one side while ur turning the other or ur axle might just keep spinning. Someone on this forum suggested this method... i forgot who it was tho.

Brilliant!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Best thing since toast.
 

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I know lol. It was already too late for me tho. I actually had my dad machine 2 pieces of metal for me so I can insert it into the axle and put a socket over it. Then when I heard about this idea I was like FUUUUCCCKKKKKK!!!!! :headbang: :fire
 
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