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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
NOTE : I wanted to place this in the 'Guides' section but I do not have the option to create a new thread. Perhaps one of the mods would be kind enough to move it for me.

"If a job is worth doing, it's worth doing right!"

I put this tutorial together to show the right way to upgrade the integrated LED tail light on a 2007 / 2008 / 2009 (P8F) Ninja (using the preferred method for joining wires that are subject to vibration/weather).

I originally completed the upgrade using pvc insulating tape and joined the wires using the twist method. I went to bed that night and remembered that I do not own a Triumph, and that a precision engineered bike like my beloved P8F deserves better. So I did the upgrade again the next morning - this time taking pictures to benefit the forum :)

There are several kits available from China / Hong Kong via ebay. Unfortunately these kits do not always come with sufficient wire lengths (but for £20 what more do you want?). I placed emphasis on retaining the original cabling as much as possible, and ensuring everything was properly sealed and insulated. This kit also shows the new tail tidy I also sourced from ebay, probably the best one I have seen for a P8F.

The correct part (for this tutorial) has 5 wires - 2 power (red and black) and 1 brake signal (green) grouped onto a stock connector, 1 left signal (yellow) and 1 right signal (yellow) left loose. The indicators share the power from the rear light / brake.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Smoke-Integrated-LED-Tail-Light-Turn-Signals-For-Kawasaki-Ninja-ZX6R-2007-2008-/271007519786?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f194e942a

Before touching the bike - ensure the two yellow wires are sheathed with heathshrink (7mm) but to not shrink it just yet. If the brake adapter wire is too short, then cut the adapter off. I will show you how to join it later in this guide.

Tools
- Wire cutters
- Scissors
- Needle nose pliers
- Hot air gun / hairdryer
- 10mm Heat shrink
- 7mm Heat shrink
- 2.5mm Heat shrink
- Soldering Iron
- Solder

Time
About 3 hours from start to finish (allowing time for cutting, measuring and testing).

Desired Result



Connect the indicators
The first stage is to remove the rear fairing. I will not go into detail on that here as it is a simple procedure - just place the bolts in the order they are removed to aid speedy replacement of parts after the upgrade.

Once the rear fairings have been removed - unbolt the rear light and license plate assembly. You will invariably snap one of the small plastic retainers that joins the two indicators to the plate mount. Don't worry you won't be using these again (if you are using a tail tidy).

Cut the stock wire out of the stock indicators, retaining as much length as possible. With the scissors cut back into the sheath by 1-2 inches. Cut the black wire back as far as possible, preserving the blue signal wire. Strip the end and 'tin' it ready for soldering in a short while.





The process now needs to be repeated for the left and right yellow signal wires. Strip the wire and tin the ends, maybe cut one shorter than the other to aid with identifying left / right before soldering. The stock wires have a grey block for right, and a black connector block for left.



At this point you can shrink down the 7mm sheath using a hot air gun / hairdryer. Cut a second length of 7mm and place over the yellow wires - this will form the waterproof seal after the wires are joined.



Take a single stock wire and place 1-2 inches of 2.5mm heatshrink over the green signal wire. Pull it down to ensure the heat of the soldering iron is not going to cause it to shrink prematurely. Test the stock wire against one of the yellow wires to ensure you are soldering to the correct indicator direction. When the correct wire is found, solder using your preferred method (side by side, twisted, mesh).



Once the solder is complete pull the heatshrink over the join and shrink. Repeat the process for the second wire which, by default, will be for the correct indicator. Shrink both sheaths to weatherproof seal. It should look something like this :



At this point you can cut away the excess sheath from the stock wires and pull down the 7mm heatshrink we put in place earlier. Shrink this in place over the entire join, using tape to finish. I tried using the heatshrink to finish but the 2 into 1 thickness difference didn't warrant this. The focus was on weatherproofing and so the 7mm heatshrink provided a tighter seal around the join.





You are now done with the indicator element of the upgrade.

Connect the rear light / brake
We need to salvage the stock wire from the OEM light. Cut this off as close to the light unit as possible (giving you the most length to work with). This process is very similar to the indicator process, but without a 2 into 1 split on the wire sources - allowing it to be finished with a length of 10mm heatshrink (or 8mm if you have it) and removing the need for tape.

The first stage is to strip and tin the 3 wires (red, black, green) from the integrated LED light unit.



The process also needs to be repeated for the stock wires.



At this point, you need to place a 4-5 inch length of 10mm heatshrink over the stock wire for the final seal.



All 3 wires can now be joined using the same method to join indicators - placing 1-2 inches of 2.5mm heatshrink over the wire ensuring it is far enough from the join that the soldering iron will not shrink it prematurely. Solder the two wires together using the preferred method. Cover the join then shrink. Cut back any excess stock sheath as this will not be required. The final result should look something like this :



The 10mm heathsrink can now be moved into place and heated for the final seal. Finish the end with tape for good measure/tidiness.





Now you can start to put everything back together :















 

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good write up dude. loving the CF exhaust tip. looks sick.
 

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Have a link for the License plate bracket?
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
There are 3 kits available (well, they were available)

With indicators :

Fender Eliminator Kawasaki Ninja ZX-6R TURN 2007 2008 | eBay

Without indicators (I purchased this one):

Fender Eliminator Kawasaki Ninja ZX-6R ZX6R 2007 2008 | eBay

Without indicators but with a plate light :

Fender Eliminator Kawasaki Ninja ZX-6R 2007 2008 with built in LED TAG LIGHT | eBay

I bought it around a year ago with the intention of removing the plate mount element (held on by 2 rivets) and using an under seat plate mount like this :

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2007-2008...d=170539556589&ps=63&clkid=651681590519716803

I have one so might fit it - allows your plate to double up as a mud catcher ;)

If I don't do this, I might buy the upgraded version with plate light.

NOTE : The kit is of very high quality and I have been very impressed with the construction. Everything went together perfectly and feels very solid. It also aligns the rear light correctly (not like the R&G where the light is seated flush with the plate). Took me ages to find one this good...enjoy!
 

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Hey,
I tried to install my tailights using this guide and i have a problem
The guy who sold me the bike put on some of his own lights and the wires are different colours..
The green wires were red and also had black wires with them. We put the red(green on guide) with the yellow of the integrated light and it didnt turn on. so we put the black wires with it and it did light up.
But then i noticed that the tail light was on but would not get brighter when the brake was applied.
Does anybody know why or how i could fix this.
 

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Finally got it to work.
My fuse was blown and i finally located it under the throttle under the plastic part.
replaces all the fuses and then wired it up
The black to black, Red to Red and Green to Blue.
All the blacks/yellows go together. Finally worked
 
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