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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Model: 2006 Kawasaki ZX-6R 636C
Mileage: about 16.000

When I turn on the ignition the dash comes up and when I try to start the engine turns over, but doesn't start. There is no fuel pressure. My diagnosis so far:
  1. I checked the battery, it has 12,4 V.
  2. I connected the battery directly to the fuel pump and it immediately runs and pumps fuel. So I assume the fuel pump is ok.
  3. I checked all fuses, they are all ok.
  4. I checked the fuel pump relay by the handbook using a multimeter and the relay is ok too, both in the off and the on "position".
  5. I checked the voltage on the wiring harness side, when I turn the key to ignition position, and it reads 11,8 V, so I assume the way from the battery to the fuel pump connector is ok.
  6. But when I connect the fuel pump connector with the wiring harness connector the voltage drops to 0,3 V.
  7. I connected the negative pole from the fuel pump directly to the negative pole of the battery to rule out a broken ground wire, and connected the positive side with an alligator clip to the positive wire on the wiring harness side. The voltage still drops to 0,3 V.
If the way from the battery to the connector on the wiring harness side seems ok, and the way from the connector to the fuel pump seems ok, I don't understand why the voltage drops as soon as I connect both.

Besides the theoretical case of a faulty ECU, is there anything else I could test or try out?
 

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12.4v is a battery with less than 50% charge

dropping to 11.8v with only turning on the ignition is a junk battery or severely discharged one

I would start by fully charging (with a real battery charger not those shitbox tenders) the battery and then testing, or even test with the charger running, or just replace the battery with a new fully charged battery

I have not tried this is quite in awhile but .3v certainly doesn't ring any bells of being correct for what you describe even thoguh numerous sensors on the bike do run at around .3v -.5v
 

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If with a fully charged battery the problem persists, check the drop sensor, measure continuity
or try disconnecting it and making a bridge in the female connector.
Really ? You can't advise the Guy to randomly try and Bridge 2 connection in the Vehicle Down Sensor plug hoping it will have a positive result as apposed to annoying the ECU !
All 3 wires terminate in the ECU with the BR/BK splitting off to numerious other components as an Earth feed.
 

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Really ? You can't advise the Guy to randomly try and Bridge 2 connection in the Vehicle Down Sensor plug hoping it will have a positive result as apposed to annoying the ECU !
All 3 wires terminate in the ECU with the BR/BK splitting off to numerious other components as an Earth feed.
Ok, I edit at the risk of my comment being misinterpreted.

Measure output voltage:

0,65 ∼ 4,45 V measured as follows:

Position sensor 1
With the arrow mark on the sensor looking up: 3.55 ∼ 4.45 V

Position sensor 2
With the sensor inclined 60 ∼ 70 ° or more clockwise or counterclockwise: 0.65∼ 1.35 V

White Line Font Parallel Rectangle
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the suggestions.

The battery was charged with a Bosch C7 charger beforehand, but I will charge it again and try another battery to be sure.

I didn't check tip over sensor before and indeed it could be the problem. It should read 12V when measuring the brown/black (-) and the blue (+) wires, but shows only 5V.
You, Brader, wrote it should read about 4V in the upright position and about 1V in the tilted position (measured at the brown/black (-) and yellow/green (+) wires), which it does in my case. But the Haynes manual (ISBN 978-1785210136) says it should read 1V in the upright and 4V in the tilted position. I am not sure if the Haynes manual has a misprint there. However I will order a new sensor and see if the readings are different.
 

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By mistake I assumed we were talking about a 07 zx6r so your data is probably correct. I was very busy with something else and I wanted to try to help you, sorryo bviously I can't chew gum and walk at the same time !!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
You were correct. The replacement tip over sensor also shows ∼4V in the upright and ∼1V in the tilted position, so this wasn't the issue.

I realised I had taken off the right front fairing and therefore the amplifier for the ignition switch wasn't connected anymore. (This should have been obvious since the FI light in the dash was flashing.) But even after reconnecting it (the FI light is now off) the fuel pump only receives 1,0V.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yes, I checked the fuel pump relay and the ECU main relay and both are within spec.

My current assumption is that there must be a broken or pinched wire.
 

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You will have to route the cables starting from where you have the correct voltage.
For these cases, patience is the best friend.
 

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^^^as are good notes. Troubleshooting things you cannot see or feel requires logic, and that happens most easily with good notes.
 

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^^^as are good notes. Troubleshooting things you cannot see or feel requires logic, and that happens most easily with good notes.
Good advice!! I also take notes and write down the progress of the research to be able to resort to them if I need to go back to any doubt that arises.
 
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