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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i been having problem's with the front brake mainly pressure,
i have replaced seal's in the master cylinder and calipers and replaced the brake line's but still not working right can any body help.
 

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First off! Welcome to the zone. Okay, here is what the service manual has to say:
Brake does not hold:
Air in brake line
pad or disc worn
brake fluid leakage
disc warped
contaminated pad
brake fluid deteriorated
primary or secondary cup damaged in master cylinder
master cylinder scratched inside

Hope something here helps.
 

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My mate had a similar problem on his G2 model after fitting some braided hoses and race pads. COULD be you still have some air in master cylinder, which can be a real bitch to bleed out properly. Try loosening off banjo nut that holds hoses on at master cylinder and squeeze brake lever (use something to soak up brake fluid though!!!), this should bleed the master cylinder for you. I KNOW THIS WORKS, just done it to my B1H after fitting Goodridge hoses.
IF this doesn't work, then i'm afraid you're looking more into the realms of what Ninjarider posted in his reply.

P.S. Note to Ninjarider - saw your bike in Superbike Mag - Doesn't Canada have any decent mags of their own????
 

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Our mags here are'nt nearly as good as the ones you have over there. I always buy superbike,fastbikes and two. Cool that my ride made it in the mag, I'll have to get a copy!.
 

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Hi there,had the same problem with my g1 after doing the seals. basically what happens is,you clean all the crud out from under the piston seals in the calipers to make them nice n clean,but this is a fault. you don't get what is called as mush STICKTION. when doing this,therefor the pistons jump back in when you release the brake. i had to buy a brembo master cylinder to cure the problem. this is a well known fact about six pots.

stevie
 

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Six pot calipers also have another known problem, especially tokico's fitted to Kwaka's and Suzooks.
Because the pads are only retained by one pin, they can and will, over time, rock slightly in the caliper with the pads eventually wearing a groove on the inside of caliper leading to 'knocking noise' on actuation of brakes. I know coz it happened to my G2! Had to buy replacement calipers (thanks Ebay!) but even then after another 2 years they started to go again..............................It's worse if you're a demon late braker, Doh!
 

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had a similar problem with my rear brake.... turns out when i replaced the rear tirer i got some grease on the rotor and didnt clean it well enough.... *contaminated pads*

before you start replacing expensive parts try new pads... even if its not the problem you have them for next time.
 

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Dodgy pads wont give low lever pressure, my moneys with Lee6r, its more likely to be air bubbles at the master cylinder.

i had the same problem when overhauling the brakes on my old GPz900, tried everything including using a syringe to suck the brake fluid through the bleed nipples which really helped to get things moving, once you've primed the master cylinder its a lot easier.

Leaving the brake lever pulled back overnight by taping it in place can also help as the bubbles will tend to rise.

Also if you tap the master cylinder you can sometimes see them come out especially if you gently work the lever at the same time.

You'll probably need to use a combination of some/all of the above to get rid of all the air buts its definitely worth the effort in the end, theres no substitute for sharp brakes.
 

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Mine are truly ace brakes!
TOP TIP #1 - Bleed brakes carefully and thoroughly - don't rush it or your brakes will be spongy and ineffective.
TOP TIP #2 - Start bleeding brakes at the master cylinder - turn steering to left to get resevoir at highest point, then just crack off the banjo bolt and slowly pump lever to release air (use a rag to catch fluid!)
TOP TIP #3 - BE PATIENT
TOP TIP #4 - Use quality brake fluid
TOP TIP #5 - After bleeding - tie brake lever back to bar over night to allow microscopic air bubbles trapped in fluid make their way to top of system (leave resevoir cap just resting on top)
TOP TIP #6 - Tap whole brake system, starting at calipers and working your way up along hoses back to master cylinder and resevoir to help air bubbles process.

After doing all this, then go out and marvel at your stonking ninja brake system and out brake everyone everywhere! Just don't outbrake yourself!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
hi
thanks everybody for your help but now its done i took the pistons out again
cleaned them and put back bleed the system and now its perfect:)
 

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Kwaks are know to have problems with brakes on some models, and as legend says if its sat for more that a week the brakes will stick!!! lol not to sure about that myself, but its an incentive to get you out on the bike as much as possible ;-)
 

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I had this problem no three ZZRs, two Es and a D. After a full rebuild of the system with new master cylinder seals, new calliper seals and new braided lines.
mush STICKTION
That's an interesting term, but it makes a little sense.

However, here's an interesting one. The Six pot Tokikos fitted to Suzukis and Kwaks use a 63mm hole centre mount. So do the brakes from middle year Fireblades and early CBR600RRs. These are very good callipers and can be easily found at a breakers. Apart from a sleave for moutning, they are a direct fit. They would be worth a try if the problem is encountered.

http://www.zzr-international.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1142

A
 
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