Frame slider bolt stuck not sure what to do

606 Views 41 Replies 9 Participants Last post by riverszzr, 8 d ago

Isaac S.

Discussion Starter · 11 d ago

2

I had the shogun frame sliders on the bike till my right one decided to run away from me. My only speculation on how that could have happened is it hit the ground whenever I slipped at a higher lean angle and maybe even saved me from dropping my bike.
nevertheless the 10mm Allen on the inner is totally stripped and won’t move at all channel locks just spin and I can’t quite Think of anything that’ll make it so I can still reuse the bolt hole for replacement sliders. Any help is appreciated thank you guys

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Scumbag

· #21 · 11 d ago

And i just notice kev commented “looks to far out to him” and rivers liked it. So that’s least 3 of us that seems to think that’s just further out than it should be.

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Isaac S.

Discussion Starter · #22 · 11 d ago

Scumbag said:
I honestly can’t answer that 100%. That adjustment looks way off to me and comparing to what I have and seen. Did that bolt manage to move any during the mangling process? Wait till someone else gives some opinions. Maybe post several angles of what you have going on. It just looks off to me. And engine alignment is important. I feel like not being able to run a slider is the least if your problems. But I very well could be wrong and all you have is a broken slider bolt. Just doesn’t look right to me.

Yeah the silver piece on the inside of the locknut was a 10mm Allen that I totally stripped and it won’t come out any more. The actual locknut itself I haven’t messed with, but maybe I could somehow retighten the silver piece and fix the even bigger fuckup. Not sure at this point and I’ll have to run the bike when I get home to see if it still all works fine. But as of now kinda clueless

KevA

· #23 · 11 d ago

Isaac S. said:
So should I still try to remove the locknut and then see about getting the broken bolt removed? I mean I’d definitely have to have a shop remove that, but I don’t know how feasible that is or how expensive so worst case I just don’t run frame sliders anymore

Despite that sheared bolt being used to secure the slider it is still an Engine mount and needs a bolt in there even if you don't run a slider, So it needs to come out.
At the end of the day the Engine needs dropping to replace the Damaged spacer but I suspect the sheared portion of the Bolt will prevent this until its removed, A decent Motorcycle shop is in your near future

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Isaac S.

Discussion Starter · #24 · 11 d ago

Scumbag said:
Oh shit I got the pics 🤣😂. You really should have read the instruction in your frame sliders. That motor will never be aligned right now.

This is the instruction video I referenced and it looks like the bolts went through that locknut to hold the frame sliders in place so I can definitely confirm the bolt broke off inside. Just not sure what to do about the misaligned engine now.

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Isaac S.

Discussion Starter · #25 · 11 d ago

KevA said:
Despite that sheared bolt being used to secure the slider it is still an Engine mount and needs a bolt in there even if you don't run a slider, So it needs to come out.
At the end of the day the Engine needs dropping to replace the Damaged spacer but I suspect the sheared portion of the Bolt will prevent this until its removed, A decent Motorcycle shop is in your near future

Well this sounds like worst case scenario, but I’ll have to get it done and I’m sure my mechanic will be able to fix whatever I fucked up while he’s getting that bolt out too. Thanks for all your help

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Scumbag

· #26 · 11 d ago

Only thing you can do is like kev said. Jack motor up remove it all replace and realign. Like he said tho the broken bolt will be the road block in removing the mount

Scumbag

· #27 · 11 d ago

And for the future you always should Jack the engine to take the tension off everything when messing with those mounts.

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Scorpi0

· #28 · 11 d ago

3

Here are some close-up pics to give u a better idea of what you’re dealing with.

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riverszzr

· #29 · 10 d ago

Isaac S. said:
Yeah the silver piece on the inside of the locknut was a 10mm Allen that I totally stripped and it won’t come out any more. The actual locknut itself I haven’t messed with, but maybe I could somehow retighten the silver piece and fix the even bigger fuckup. Not sure at this point and I’ll have to run the bike when I get home to see if it still all works fine. But as of now kinda clueless

So this very intelligent ASSHOLE..............

will chime in once again.........

DO NOT......... I repeat DO NOT run the bike without those two engine bolts installed properly, with or without sliders I give zero fucks...........

and removing the snapped off bolt may be the easiest part in this whole equation...........

Do you own a corded power drill????????
Does it work and go in reverse?????
do you know how to use it????????

Start off by simply drilling a small hole (1/8" would do) in the center of the bolt- you only need to go in a half inch maybe 3/4 inch or so.......

Then take a bigger drill bit, 1/4" or therabouts......... and drill in that same centered hole til you feel it bottom

Then you can either go buy an easy out set (they require your drill to go in reverse!) and put the next size up bit in and drill the bolt on a slow speed---it just might "grab" the bolt and back it out for you but even if it does not
when you hit the bottom of the hole, then take the correct accompanying tool bit and insert it in the hole and turn it in reverse motion---counterclockwise! while pushing in, you will feel it catch, once it is caught and tight, then all twisting motion is going into unscrewing the broken bolt
you can try some lube, and use more than your purse to turn it- but do not break off the hardened bit because that makes it a whole nother level of bad........

As far as that adjuster you stripped out the head of (internal 10mm allen)
The only way to replace and make it adjustable again is to remove the engine... that said--- you can probably perform some hackjob bullshit and ram something into it to bite enough to be able to turn it clockwise (inward) until it sits snug against the engine once again
but DO !!!!!!!! loosen that locknut first, and DO remember to tighten the locknut afterwards.and DO--use a floor jack to hold the engine in the correct alignment while doing this (the "nuts" should be centered in the holes through the adjuster- so the bolt is not askew uip down nor front or back........

but the best thing to do---take it to someone with the right tools and knowledge and buy the new oem parts and fix it correctly. but it won't be cheap

And this fucking asshole doesn't believ for a second you dragged that on the ground while riding and "saved it"....not even a millisecond of truth in that bullshit claim!!!!!!!!!!!

ASSHOLE OUT

best of luck to you or your pocketbook........

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Scumbag

· #30 · 10 d ago

Lol. He doesn’t know how serious this screw up actually is I don’t believe.

And Now Lloyd. You mean in all your years of racing you never got good enough to drag your sliders off?

riverszzr

· #31 · 10 d ago

Scumbag said:
Lol. He doesn’t know how serious this screw up actually is I don’t believe.

And Now Lloyd. You mean in all your years of racing you never got good enough to drag your sliders off?

20 years racing, 50 years riding and over 1 million miles and I still couldn't do it today and stay on two wheels.........

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Scumbag

· #32 · 10 d ago

riverszzr said:
20 years racing, 50 years riding and over 1 million miles and I still couldn't do it today and stay on two wheels.........

Can anyone? I mean it’s never been a thought in my head till I read his post and I just can’t see how it could be physically possible.

Scorpi0

· #33 · 10 d ago

Scumbag said:
Lol. He doesn’t know how serious this screw up actually is I don’t believe.

And Now Lloyd. You mean in all your years of racing you never got good enough to drag your sliders off?

I dont think its that bad actually if the engine mount adjuster hasnt turned. But it is gonna be sucky if he does try to take it out.

zx6rguiy

· #34 · 10 d ago

4

Before you do anything read all of this.

If you back out all of the mounting bolts and adjusting collars, you may be able to fix this fairly easily by turning the broken bolt from the front of the engine with a small vise grip or pliers. Also, buy the special tool for turning the locking collars. Dont use a damn chisel like a neanderthal.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Rich T

· #35 · 10 d ago

zx6rguiy said:
Also, buy the special tool for turning the locking collars.

Thanks, I just ordered one -- $58 from partzilla -- P/N 57001-1450.

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KevA

· #36 · 10 d ago

Rich T said:
Thanks, I just ordered one -- $58 from partzilla -- P/N 57001-1450.

Jeez, Thats nice of you Rich, Has Isaac given you his delivery address yet ?

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Rich T

· #37 · 10 d ago

Sorry, I ordered it for me

-- just thought I'd share the P/N and link -- I figured it was just a matter of time before I needed it. The N400 engine mounts are very simple compared to these -- just two fixed-size spacers/collars on the left side of the engine that slide out when the bolts are removed! I'm still trying to wrap my head around these -- the lower engine mounting bolt in particular is unlike anything I have seen -- I assume it has an outer hex shoulder that engages the adjusting collar... At least only the nuts have to be replaced on each use...

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KevA

· #38 · 10 d ago

Rich T said:
Sorry, I ordered it for me

No shit

I was gonna see if you could send me one to put with the others

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Brader

· #39 · 8 d ago

Scumbag said:
Can anyone? I mean it’s never been a thought in my head till I read his post and I just can’t see how it could be physically possible.

Ha Ha Ha I remember seeing a picture of Raymond Roche on his Honda Rothmans 250 with his elbow touching the inside shoulder of the turn but still I don't think he would touch the sliders (if he had them)

Brader

· #40 · 8 d ago

Rich T said:
Sorry, I ordered it for me -- just thought I'd share the P/N and link -- I figured it was just a matter of time before I needed it. The N400 engine mounts are very simple compared to these -- just two fixed-size spacers/collars on the left side of the engine that slide out when the bolts are removed! I'm still trying to wrap my head around these -- the lower engine mounting bolt in particular is unlike anything I have seen -- I assume it has an outer hex shoulder that engages the adjusting collar... At least only the nuts have to be replaced on each use...

I live in Argentina, far from everything, I have one but I built it with a bushing, an angle grinder and a lot, lot, lot of patience.....

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