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A physical hieght measurement after you thoroughly and fully stroke the cartridge atleast 10 times or until no more air gaps in the stroke (you can feel them) and have also stroked the fork tube through a dozen or so 4-5" full strokes as well then let it sit for about 10 minutes

110mm level of 7w works well on these if running all stock oe components
 

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Sr. Penis Inspector
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A physical hieght measurement after you thoroughly and fully stroke the cartridge atleast 10 times or until no more air gaps in the stroke (you can feel them) and have also stroked the fork tube through a dozen or so 4-5" full strokes as well then let it sit for about 10 minutes

110mm level of 7w works well on these if running all stock oe components
^^^:stupid:^^^

Seriously though. Why 110mm? Would that make a softer ride?
 

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^^^:stupid:^^^

Seriously though. Why 110mm? Would that make a softer ride?
Oe set up has a shit ton of spring pre-load built in to them just assembling them, and you can't change that unless you buy new springs...

So they feel super stiff when you are checking sag etc, but in actuality they are pretty soft

having the oil level higher (110mm is a higher oil level than 115mm) actually aids in the "air shock" near the end of travel and slow down the fork speed and usually can prevent you from bottoming them out

the oil level mostly only affects the final 25-35mm of fork travel- everything else (90% of the riding time) the oil level as long as it is sufficient enough, has no affect.......... it is basically adding some progression to the air spring, since there is air above the oil and when you stroke through travel you can't compress the oil, but you do compress the air

There are plenty of bikes that once you add emulators, or different cartridges/valves or springs that you actually want to run a lower oil level than oe
ie.......... some oe are like 90mm oil level, they go up to 120mm with many aftermarket parts so the spring and valving are doing more of the work
 

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Sr. Penis Inspector
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Oe set up has a shit ton of spring pre-load built in to them just assembling them, and you can't change that unless you buy new springs...

So they feel super stiff when you are checking sag etc, but in actuality they are pretty soft

having the oil level higher (110mm is a higher oil level than 115mm) actually aids in the "air shock" near the end of travel and slow down the fork speed and usually can prevent you from bottoming them out

the oil level mostly only affects the final 25-35mm of fork travel- everything else (90% of the riding time) the oil level as long as it is sufficient enough, has no affect.......... it is basically adding some progression to the air spring, since there is air above the oil and when you stroke through travel you can't compress the oil, but you do compress the air

There are plenty of bikes that once you add emulators, or different cartridges/valves or springs that you actually want to run a lower oil level than oe
ie.......... some oe are like 90mm oil level, they go up to 120mm with many aftermarket parts so the spring and valving are doing more of the work
Blah blah...experience..blah blah

Jk! Genius. That's awesome info. Packing that away for sure.

I want to troll and find people that battle you....
 

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fucking troll it all you want

No doubt you can find some fucktard somewhere to disagree

but ask some suspension experts............ then go back and troll the trolls
 

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fucking troll it all you want

No doubt you can find some fucktard somewhere to disagree

but ask some suspension experts............ then go back and troll the trolls
Is this type of thing found in the Racetech suspension bible? Seems like once you understand, you can tweak depending on model of bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #69
......I damaged my seals, installing them. Now I know better.

The question is, can I just replace the seals?

All of the bushings have 70 miles on them. Brand new dust boots, too.
 

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Discussion Starter #72
The motion pro bullet fitment sometimes doesn't cover the inner lip so it can damage the seal. I wrap electrical tape to the area that is not protected to help with that.
Yeah, I was pretty disappointed with that. I specifically bought the bullet to prevent that damage. Without having done the service, I didn't recognize the shortcoming in the design.

I find humor in the thought of using a condom over the bullet to smooth that transition.

Electrical tape seems like a good option, Teflon tape seems like it would be better....... Softer, and more malleable. Any kind of tape, seems like residue could be an issue.:O
 

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Yeah, I was pretty disappointed with that. I specifically bought the bullet to prevent that damage. Without having done the service, I didn't recognize the shortcoming in the design.

I find humor in the thought of using a condom over the bullet to smooth that transition.

Electrical tape seems like a good option, Teflon tape seems like it would be better....... Softer, and more malleable. Any kind of tape, seems like residue could be an issue.:O
I have never had any residue issue

electrical tape all the way, the cheap stuff even.......... 10 pack rolls for 3.99


it is on there such a short amount of time, sub 30 seconds and the fork tube is cold typically............(room temperature cold anyways)

teflon tape works but you have to double it up and it does tend to roll with the seal, plus it costs more........more cost, more pain in the ass............. fuck that shit, go with the electrical tape!
 

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Discussion Starter #76
In the ongoing saga......

The first seal I installed this time, I had to take back off because I got the washer in the wrong order.

It went on the first time without fuss...... Electrical tape over the lower edge of the bearing groove, the bullet overlapping, a condom over all of that AND lubricant. Perfect. THEN I realized I had the washer in the wrong order, below the seal. I couldn't use the bullet on removal, or another condom.... Just electrical tape to try and prevent damage.

Still had to apply a small amount of force to get the seal past the groove. Apparently, that was enough to cause damage. Even though I lubed everything, and reinstalled with the same technique that one still leaks. Much less than before, but still leaks.

The other leg, is finally correct. Took the bike out for a 100 mile shakedown run, stopped twice to inspect.... One side dry, the other shows wetness on the caliper support. Not soaked,but enough to cause concern.

Not a difficult job..... The tools and process are easier than setting the valves. Just unforgiving of abuse.

Even with all of the stupid things I've done to get to this point, I'd still say it's worth the effort.

I have very little doubt that I can do '09-12 forks in less than an hour correctly, forks off the bike.

This whole thing would be a lot less of an issue, without fairings....
 

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..... so since I ordered up the syringe, and the oil (which is going to take a while to get here) I decided to take the forks off the bike and disassemble them in preparation. got the legs off, and the cap loose from the tube, managed to figure out how to take the cap off the metering rod...... I'm stuck at taking the inner guide off. The shop manual calls for a specific 27mm tool to take it out of the fork leg. 57001-1744 - ROD GUIDE CASE WRENCH is the item description. Prices for this thing are stupid high, IMHO.

What can be used as an alternate?
I used one of these: https://amzn.to/2OaKCSf
 

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Discussion Starter #78
Good to know --- I bought another tool, for considerably more than that. And only got the one size I needed for this fork. Your solution is a much better option, IMHO.
 
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