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Discussion Starter #1
Just ordered up the motion pro cap socket tool, so I can open the forks and replace the oil.... Finally taking the plunge on a USD fork. More to follow when it shows up and I can get on with it.

From the shop manual, the oil change is straightforward enough, once you can take the caps off without damaging them.

It was surprising how much more expensive the Kawasaki tool was, than the Motion Pro tool.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
You're going to need a cartridge removal tool and seal driver

GP Suspension BPF Seal Head Tool

and a seal driver
I'm cheap, and lazy.... I don't think there is anything wrong with the bushings or seals. The oil is off viscosity, so my damping is all hosed up. No leaks, no looseness or other indication that the bushings need to be replaced.....

You're going to make me watch you tube videos to get a better understanding of this.:laugh
 

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You wont know the bushings need to be replaced until you take the the forks apart. Which means you will need to remove the upper stanchion from the lower, which will require the seal to be bashed out of the upper stanchion. If you've put on a lot of miles before the last time the forks have been gone through, it might not be a bad idea to just replace everything.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I can certainly understand why the bushings and seals may need replacement..... If needed I will go there.

Buying all the tools would cost as much as having a shop do it for me.
 

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If i do my seals and oil i do my bushings at the same time for what they cost I've got them stripped down so why put them back together then have to strip them down again to replace a couple of bushes.
 

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Buying all the tools would cost as much as having a shop do it for me.
Only the first time.


If i do my seals and oil i do my bushings at the same time for what they cost I've got them stripped down so why put them back together then have to strip them down again to replace a couple of bushes.
I do the same. Once you're in there you might as well change all the wear parts. IIRC, OP said he is somewhere north of 50,000 miles on this bike. IMO that is more than enough to justify just changing everything out as preventative maintenance.


I also forgot to mention a fork oil level tool.
That's really an optional extra, there are plenty of ways to skin that cat without a specific tool. Same deal with the seal driver, in my experience. Both are nice to have but there are other options that don't cost $$$.


Mark
 

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RJ, when where the bushings and seals last replaced? They’re not terrible expensive, and if you’re going to crack them open, you might as well go whole hog.
 

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Only the first time.




I do the same. Once you're in there you might as well change all the wear parts. IIRC, OP said he is somewhere north of 50,000 miles on this bike. IMO that is more than enough to justify just changing everything out as preventative maintenance.




That's really an optional extra, there are plenty of ways to skin that cat without a specific tool. Same deal with the seal driver, in my experience. Both are nice to have but there are other options that don't cost $$$.


Mark

Motion Pro’s fork oil level tool is pretty cheap, sub $30 bucks, if I recall? It’s by far, the easiest way to set the oil level correctly.
 

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You're going to need a cartridge removal tool and seal driver

GP Suspension BPF Seal Head Tool

and a seal driver


LOL, I agree and still have the seal driver tool from when I did my FZ6 forks. I can sell it to you real real cheap if it will work. I also have a VW tool to hold the crankshaft while removing the fully nut and a set a double square bits - if you don't know what they are that is very good. It means you have steered clear of VW engineering marvels.
 

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Bushings you would be hard pressed to feel as "bad" until you have the forks apart cleaned and no seal and then slide it all back together- but at anything over 20k I bet you have a couple thousandths of slop, and you have originals in there at 50=K? you have more than 5 thousandths of sloppiness........ for $40 buy the damn bushings and put them in!
Even if you hack a measurement of thickness with a dial caliper you will measure more than 5 thou of difference new to your old........ I guarantee it!
Bike will work much better and you have oil travelling around the sloppy loose bushings now too, so not all of it is going through the damper rod making the system even less effective, not too mention all those wear particles in your oil and in your damper rod and in the compression and rebound stacks

full disassembly, cleaning to spotless then new parts and proper assembly!!! the only way to do it correctly!!!!
 

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You need to remove the fork guide rod to change out the oil.

I also forgot to mention a fork oil level tool.
I always use the butt end of a dial caliper, as it is a very accurate depth measuring tool. And manual gives depth-from-top.

When it just begins to dent/deform the meniscus of the top of the oil...gtg
 

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Sr. Penis Inspector
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Bushings you would be hard pressed to feel as "bad" until you have the forks apart cleaned and no seal and then slide it all back together- but at anything over 20k I bet you have a couple thousandths of slop, and you have originals in there at 50=K? you have more than 5 thousandths of sloppiness........ for $40 buy the damn bushings and put them in!
Even if you hack a measurement of thickness with a dial caliper you will measure more than 5 thou of difference new to your old........ I guarantee it!
Bike will work much better and you have oil travelling around the sloppy loose bushings now too, so not all of it is going through the damper rod making the system even less effective, not too mention all those wear particles in your oil and in your damper rod and in the compression and rebound stacks

full disassembly, cleaning to spotless then new parts and proper assembly!!! the only way to do it correctly!!!!
I have to go back in and do outer bushings. I don't have a brass drift long enough to get down in there.
 

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I'm cheap, and lazy.... I don't think there is anything wrong with the bushings or seals. The oil is off viscosity, so my damping is all hosed up. No leaks, no looseness or other indication that the bushings need to be replaced.....

You're going to make me watch you tube videos to get a better understanding of this.:laugh
As the bushings wear more and more, you get more oil leahage around them which does have an adverse effect on damping........ sure you can compensate some by adding more via the adjusters, but it isn't the correct method
but your bike, do as you wish...... but another ~$50 for seals and bushings is money well spent!! in both ride quality and performance/rigidity
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Yeah this really needs to happen the right way; and I will eventually get there. So far all I have on hand is the socket for the cap. At the least I want to have the oil and the level setting gizmo/syringe on hand before I do anything. the longer that progresses, the more likely I am to get all fo the tools and parts on hand before I break it down.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
..... so since I ordered up the syringe, and the oil (which is going to take a while to get here) I decided to take the forks off the bike and disassemble them in preparation. got the legs off, and the cap loose from the tube, managed to figure out how to take the cap off the metering rod...... I'm stuck at taking the inner guide off. The shop manual calls for a specific 27mm tool to take it out of the fork leg. 57001-1744 - ROD GUIDE CASE WRENCH is the item description. Prices for this thing are stupid high, IMHO.

What can be used as an alternate?
 

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..... so since I ordered up the syringe, and the oil (which is going to take a while to get here) I decided to take the forks off the bike and disassemble them in preparation. got the legs off, and the cap loose from the tube, managed to figure out how to take the cap off the metering rod...... I'm stuck at taking the inner guide off. The shop manual calls for a specific 27mm tool to take it out of the fork leg. 57001-1744 - ROD GUIDE CASE WRENCH is the item description. Prices for this thing are stupid high, IMHO.

What can be used as an alternate?
Two options

Race tech TFCH 06



GP Suspension BPF Seal Head Tool

 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thanks! Which do you have?

By the time I am done collecting the tools and the parts this will end up costing what it would for someone else to do the job for me.... Hopefully the tools will carry over to other models.
 
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