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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2007 zx6r Okay, so heres what we've got so far. i wrecked the bike about 4 months ago on the right side. got all new plastic and all that put back on. all the wiring we went through and so far everything looks good. * avionics tech for the air force * so im a certified electrician, i know wiring lol anyways its showing a fault code of 64 which is Air switching valve malfunction, wiring open or short. have yet to find that open or short... also went for a ride today when i got everything together. id say prob about 7-8 miles of riding it started getting sluggish on the throttle response real bad. then the gauges went out as i was going up hill. like the battery died. so i rolled it down the hill and roll started it. and got to the bottom, leveled out and it got sluggish again and died again. now we can hook a battery charger on it and it will start right up. also all the gauges and stuff come on when i turn it to on and its showing 11.8v without the battery charger on it. i know it should be showing 12.8v i believe. but as i give it throttle, it doesnt spike up in voltage, in fact is stays steady or slowly decreases in voltage. i'm wondering if this fault code code be something to do with the charging system being messed up or code that just be a separate issue. and also if its slowly decreasing in voltage as throttle is applied would this be the rectifier? how would i test it or how would i test the stator? any help on this would be greatly appreciated. also, could a wreck have made the battery cells go bad?
 

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might have broken a cell in the battery when it dropped.(best case) or you really need to find that short and hope it's not in the ecu.(worst case) either way get the battery tested to eliminate that before you go tearing in to the rest of the bike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
well we got a battery charger on it right now that checks to see if the battery is good, holds charge, etc etc... and checking it over the night. then tomorrow we will be shooting wires and such. but one other thing i forgot to add. when it got real low voltage at one point while i was checking the fault codes and such. the ecu * relay box * or w/e started clicking inside it. it went away after we through more voltage onto it and started it up.
 

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The clicking was probably just your relays closing and opening because of how low the voltage was, And like everyone before said, Its gotta be the stator, or wires from it.
 

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You can try manually charging the battery if you have an external charger to see if the battery is still good. You'll want to charge it at like 13v-15v. Otherwise to troubleshoot the charging system....

My bike has 2 connectors to the regulator/rectifier but the idea is the same for probably every bike's charging system.

Input side -- 3 pin connector: 3 phases of AC from the stator/generator
Output side -- 3 pin connector: 1 to battery +, 1 to battery -, 1 to headlight relay (pulls the relay in, aka turning lowbeam on, and then another circuit latches it ON until the key is turned to off position..this is why your headlight will stay on even if the engine dies)

You can check all 3 pins coming from the stator connector and see if there is any voltage across it (+ side is 1 of the phases and - side to battery), should be like 50V+ IRC. You can also measures the resistance across phases, engine doesn't need to be running, based on what the service manual values.

Then you can also check if the R/R is putting out anything on the output pins. Usually the wires that go to the battery will be thicker than the wire that goes to the headlight relay, if the 07s have that one. The battery wires are usually on the "outside" of the connector pin 1 and pin 3. But if you verify that the stator is fine then you can just measure the voltage across the battery instead of probing the pins when the bike is running, it should be charging and at least 13v+.

Be careful.
 
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