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So I put on a new full exhaust and had the ECU flashed today. Put the ECU back in, let it warm up, and I've noticed it has a noticeable hesitation when I roll the throttle from idle quicker (like a blip), and sometimes it stalls. It didn't do it at first, but once it got warmed up (about 150-160 degrees) it started doing it. It didn't do this before, although I also never really let it run in idle for that long and blipped the throttle a bunch before.

So I would assume it's got something to do with the flash?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'd start there, if that was the only change. Could you have an air leak?
But if it was an air leak, it would've happened before too I would think.
 

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Did you change to the full exhaust, and the ECU at the same time? If you can borrow a different ECU, should be a straight swap to isolate fault.
 

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Did you change to the full exhaust, and the ECU at the same time? If you can borrow a different ECU, should be a straight swap to isolate fault.
I changed exhaust first, and ran the bike right after that but at the time I didn't run it much. Not enough to get to 150+ degrees and I didn't rev it much. So I can't say with certainty if this behavior was there right after the exhaust change. But I know it wasn't there before that.

Unfortunately I don't know anyone nearby that has an ECU for this bike that I can test it out. I'm going to check on it again now that the engine is cold again and then contact the guy who flashed it and see what he says.
 

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Can't hurt to ensure the exhaust system is leak free.... Do you know if the flash had features to work with an auto blipper, etc.?
 

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Did you reflash it? I had it flashed before with Schnitz. They use woolich software. Sounds like something is off with the fuel map.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Can't hurt to ensure the exhaust system is leak free.... Do you know if the flash had features to work with an auto blipper, etc.?
I worked on it for a bit today. The exhaust is good, no leaks. No the flash doesn't have any features like that, and in fact I talked to the guy today and he said he didn't even change anything pertaining to the idle.

Did you reflash it? I had it flashed before with Schnitz. They use woolich software. Sounds like something is off with the fuel map.
Yeah I did since I'm using a different exhaust. The guy that flashed it also uses Woolich and he's been racing ZX6R's since the early 2000s. He has flashed many '13-'18 zx6r's including his own, with the exact same mods as mine. I got my exhaust from him, exactly what he runs on his bikes, so he already had a flash ready to go for this setup.

I turned the idle up a bit and that helped it out a bunch. I couldn't get it to stall anymore when blipping the throttle. But it shouldn't do that even at the stock idle so I'm not sure what's going on. I'm pretty sure there's no issue with air intake, as I had already checked the filter, air box, velocity stacks, TB's before. There's no air obstruction of any sort, so it's gotta be fuel related. I'm wondering if the fuel filter might be a big clogged, or something with the injectors, just because the bike has been sitting for quite a bit. This bike hasn't been ridden for quite a few months, right? When's the last time you rode it? Around August?

The only error code I get is 39, which is due to the battery thing that you told me about, and I've looked into that more. It wouldn't have anything to do with this problem.
 

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New gas? If the gas has been in it since August maybe not so good. I've never had issues I could directly say was gas but have had some tanks when the bike just wasn't as good.
 

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A weak battery will also produce peculiar behavior, especially near idle when alternator output is low....
 

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A weak battery will also produce peculiar behavior, especially near idle when alternator output is low....
Hmm...if that's the case, I could see it being the problem. The battery is definitely on the weak side for this bike. Always starts really slow and it throws the 39 error code which is battery related. I may look into that next weekend.
 

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When my battery was very near end of useful life, if developed a very uneven idle, and would stall fairly randomly..... Increasing idle speed helped, but did cure it. Also it got progressively harder to start.
 

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If it did not do it before the flash and exhaust change, and if that is all that changed.........

the exhuast isn't going to cause this, so that only leaves something with the flash, but reading the last couple posts...... sitting for a long period of time and a bad battery
if the fuel pump pressure and volume aren't what it once was...
if the injectors are even a little bit varnished up...
if the fuel quality is low...
if the battery is super low and charging system not very good...
did anything else happen to it while it sat all those months...
or maybe just some fluke timing of some unrelated issue you only noticed now....

My bet it could be a combination of things, but you wouldn't have had to make any flash change changing the exhaust system (assuming full exhaust to different full exhuast) No doubt you could have simply swapped exhausts and ridden it how it was without issue.........
 

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So I put on a new full exhaust and had the ECU flashed today. Put the ECU back in, let it warm up, and I've noticed it has a noticeable hesitation when I roll the throttle from idle quicker (like a blip), and sometimes it stalls. It didn't do it at first, but once it got warmed up (about 150-160 degrees) it started doing it. It didn't do this before, although I also never really let it run in idle for that long and blipped the throttle a bunch before.

So I would assume it's got something to do with the flash?
What is the bike idling at. I'd say if its below 1300 or so turn it up a bit and see if the problem goes away.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
What is the bike idling at. I'd say if its below 1300 or so turn it up a bit and see if the problem goes away.
With the tach on these bikes it's damn near impossible to say exactly cuz the 1K and 2K lines are so close together. All I know is that it was somewhere in between. I bumped it up a bit to where the needle was just a hair below 2K and that helped it a lot, but I can definitely tell is a faster idle than normal/stock. I would guess at about 1700-1800. Before, it SHOULD have been at 1350 because that's stock setting.
 
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