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The contact that was crimped onto the wire, was inserted from the back of the plug body. Because the contact has a barb like a fish hook that pops open into a gap in the plug body when it’s seated in the plug, the contact is latched in place.

The removal tool should be inserted from the opposite side of the plug body…. The tool is meant to squeeze that ‘barb’ flush to the contact so it will slide back out from whence it came.
 

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I had to grind down much thinner one of the tools to work in many of these small connectors....... waste of a tool for other needs but needed for these tiny connectors
ie.......... it is now about 50% the thickness it arrived at and narrower too but nearly as much
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The contact that was crimped onto the wire, was inserted from the back of the plug body. Because the contact has a barb like a fish hook that pops open into a gap in the plug body when it’s seated in the plug, the contact is latched in place.

The removal tool should be inserted from the opposite side of the plug body…. The tool is meant to squeeze that ‘barb’ flush to the contact so it will slide back out from whence it came.
Thanks RJ
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I had to grind down much thinner one of the tools to work in many of these small connectors....... waste of a tool for other needs but needed for these tiny connectors
ie.......... it is now about 50% the thickness it arrived at and narrower too but nearly as much
I wish I could do the same but I dont have access to a grinder right now
 

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I wish I could do the same but I dont have access to a grinder right now
hand file............ I finished mine off with a hand file to be more uniform and clean---obviously it'll take longer to remove the bulk but.........
 

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Thanks RJ
It’s helpful to figure out which point on the seated pin has that barb….. they typically only stick out in one direction from the body of the pin, and don’t consume much of the diameter. If that barb was the hand on the face of a clock, it wouldn’t span more than 5-10 minutes (30 degrees or thereabouts)

If you have new pins to examine you’ll see what I’m trying to describe.

Most of the military pin tools look like a straw with a groove wide enough for the wire to pass through so they have the maximum chance of defeating the latch on the first try.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So I took all of your suggestions and none of them worked.

So because I dont give up I did some more googling and found this website that sells the factory connectors in the factory colours.


Shipping to Canada cost me 5 times what I paid for the connectors but it was worth not fighting with the current ones anymore.

Hopefully that link helps someone else who stumbles upon this thread trying to figure out the samething I was.

Save youself the aggrevation and just buy new ones lol
 

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So I took all of your suggestions and none of them worked.

So because I dont give up I did some more googling and found this website that sells the factory connectors in the factory colours.


Shipping to Canada cost me 5 times what I paid for the connectors but it was worth not fighting with the current ones anymore.

Hopefully that link helps someone else who stumbles upon this thread trying to figure out the samething I was.

Save youself the aggrevation and just buy new ones lol
A universal de-pinning kit. Also, Cycle Terminal is a cool dude out of NJ that has bike specific connectors. Cords-Tecnic just as awesome, wider selection.
 
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