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Dyno chart Air/fuel ratio with M4 GP slip on

4479 Views 17 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  m0t0rider
just had my 2014 ZX6r Dynoed with an M4 GP slip on without any silencer. at full throttle the bike is actually pretty good..right around 13 to 1 ratio. My concern is 1/4 and 1/2 throttle. there are points the bike gets to 16 to 1 ratio which is not good

Most people say fuel management isnt needed with just a a slip on but the dyno sheets for my bike beg to differ.

Im looking into a PCV or Bazzaz but all the threads and stickies ive read have just left me scratching my head on what to do.

With the PCV using a downloaded map a lot of people say it could be hit or miss and the bike might not be right. With PCV and dyno tuned..it will run perfect..but only if the weather is like the day it was tuned or else it will be off... and ive yet to find anyone in the central florida area who can recommend me a good place to get it dyno tuned

Just kinda confused on what to do to get my air/fuel ratio right..not really concerned about getting more power just the a/f ratio down where it should be with the M4 slip on??
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It doesn't matter what system you get, the tuning process will be the same.

As well, I wouldn't put too much investment in your AFR. By design, the secondary air system injects air into the exhaust post combustion to try to burn any fuel that wasn't combusted. You'll need to remove this system (also called SAI) to get a proper AFR reading -- either by purchasing blockoff plates or making something at home.
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If you didn't do the block off mod, can't see how you could get accurate air to fuel ratio readings.
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If you didn't do the block off mod, can't see how you could get accurate air to fuel ratio readings.
+1
^ What they said. You can't get a proper reading/tune without installing block off plates first.
the dyno i went to stuck a a/f ratio meter down my exhaust pipe and it read while the bike was on the dyno...I actually was just introduced to this rapidbike system that self tunes as you ride... wideband will need to be installed but with the wideband and the rapid bike controller the bike will correct itself for any weather or mod thrown at it

def. more expensive than a bazzaz or PCV but i think im gonna go that route since i dont have to touch a dyno
anyone else google rapidbike and click the link and have it say the site might damage your computer? Sounds promising lol

Doesn't the autotune do the same? From my understanding it adjusts on the go as well and doesn't require a tune each time you add mods or weather/location changes.
anyone else google rapidbike and click the link and have it say the site might damage your computer? Sounds promising lol

Doesn't the autotune do the same? From my understanding it adjusts on the go as well and doesn't require a tune each time you add mods or weather/location changes.
yeah same thing happens for me..weird. i really dont know the difference between the PCV and autotune and rapid bike system...probably do the same things...im gonna ask more when i go back to Cycle pro tomorrow to have my suspension adjusted for my weight
yeah same thing happens for me..weird. i really dont know the difference between the PCV and autotune and rapid bike system...probably do the same things...im gonna ask more when i go back to Cycle pro tomorrow to have my suspension adjusted for my weight
Your opening post leaves much to be desired as it is missing way too much crucial information.

ie....

What type of dyno?...........
what were the loads with these readings?.......
as many mentioned- block off plates or no?
temp of bike?
temp of room it was operated in?
Your opening post leaves much to be desired as it is missing way too much crucial information.

ie....

What type of dyno?...........
what were the loads with these readings?.......
as many mentioned- block off plates or no?
temp of bike?
temp of room it was operated in?
Dyno was a Dynojet..dont know the model

Im not sure what you mean by the loads..but he did 3 pulls..full throttle, 1/4 throttle, and 1/2 throttle. Full throttle the a/f ratio stayed in between 13:1 and 14:1...but there were points at 1/4 and 1/2 throttle where the a/f ratio would touch 17:1 albeit briefly but still was up there

No block off plates..he just stuck an a/f meter down my exhaust pipe to measure

The temperature outside was in the low 80's..it was a mobile dyno so temperature outside was the same as inside the dyno
Holy smokes for the 20th time, you will NOT get a accurate a/f reading without block off plates. It doesn't matter where he put the a/f sniffer, Putting the bike on the dyno without block off plates was a waste of money. Perform the Kleen air mod or get block off plates then go back and get it tuned. I would suggest a different tuner as well, for him to dyno the bike without this done shows inexperience or he just doesn't give a fuck and wants to take your money!
the dyno i went to stuck a a/f ratio meter down my exhaust pipe and it read while the bike was on the dyno...I actually was just introduced to this rapidbike system that self tunes as you ride... wideband will need to be installed but with the wideband and the rapid bike controller the bike will correct itself for any weather or mod thrown at it

def. more expensive than a bazzaz or PCV but i think im gonna go that route since i dont have to touch a dyno

It doesn't matter. That reading is WRONG.
Dyno was a Dynojet..dont know the model

Im not sure what you mean by the loads..but he did 3 pulls..full throttle, 1/4 throttle, and 1/2 throttle. Full throttle the a/f ratio stayed in between 13:1 and 14:1...but there were points at 1/4 and 1/2 throttle where the a/f ratio would touch 17:1 albeit briefly but still was up there

No block off plates..he just stuck an a/f meter down my exhaust pipe to measure

The temperature outside was in the low 80's..it was a mobile dyno so temperature outside was the same as inside the dyno
Dyno jet is an inertia dyno-(unless that happens to be the newer model with the eddy current brake)-total garbage for jetting, the only usefulness it has it repeatability-so if you were using it to read hp/tq changes then okay....... but for jetting especially steady state or any street riding, it is completely worthless junk even when you do know how to interpret the data correctly

So was this dyno just a rectangle shape, or did it have a big protusion off the back making it look like a backward "L"

And again, I would not get hung up on the air/fuel ratio readings you got off that method of testing- as of course it would read lean

Some other tidbits.......ram air bikes need full ram air in effect to actually be accurate, so if you do a 4th gear run to WOT and that is 140mph, then you need 140mph air going into the air inlet
Most of those tiny fans on dyno's only blow 80 mph out that 3x3 square.... you'll never get true readings with that at anything but 80mph
Holy smokes for the 20th time, you will NOT get a accurate a/f reading without block off plates. It doesn't matter where he put the a/f sniffer, Putting the bike on the dyno without block off plates was a waste of money. Perform the Kleen air mod or get block off plates then go back and get it tuned. I would suggest a different tuner as well, for him to dyno the bike without this done shows inexperience or he just doesn't give a fuck and wants to take your money!
It doesn't matter. That reading is WRONG.
Dyno jet is an inertia dyno-(unless that happens to be the newer model with the eddy current brake)-total garbage for jetting, the only usefulness it has it repeatability-so if you were using it to read hp/tq changes then okay....... but for jetting especially steady state or any street riding, it is completely worthless junk even when you do know how to interpret the data correctly

So was this dyno just a rectangle shape, or did it have a big protusion off the back making it look like a backward "L"

And again, I would not get hung up on the air/fuel ratio readings you got off that method of testing- as of course it would read lean

Some other tidbits.......ram air bikes need full ram air in effect to actually be accurate, so if you do a 4th gear run to WOT and that is 140mph, then you need 140mph air going into the air inlet
Most of those tiny fans on dyno's only blow 80 mph out that 3x3 square.... you'll never get true readings with that at anything but 80mph

appreciate the responses everyone...so i get those readings were incorrect...block off plates ordered

in your opinion..would that dyno reading read more lean than the bike is actually running or would it read less lean??

Im not too concerned about HP numbers..the bike is fast as shit...just more concerned about the engine running properly and efficiently to last a long time

I already looked into and priced out the completely self tuning rapidbike evo system..mainly interested in it cause once i go full exhaust..i dont need to take it back to anyone to be tuned..the bike will automatically adjust to the new mods..it plugs it into all 8 injectors and uses a wideband to measure a/f ratio...If if didnt have block off plates installed with this system... would i get an accurate a/f ratio even with the wide band?
appreciate the responses everyone...so i get those readings were incorrect...block off plates ordered

in your opinion..would that dyno reading read more lean than the bike is actually running or would it read less lean??

Im not too concerned about HP numbers..the bike is fast as shit...just more concerned about the engine running properly and efficiently to last a long time

I already looked into and priced out the completely self tuning rapidbike evo system..mainly interested in it cause once i go full exhaust..i dont need to take it back to anyone to be tuned..the bike will automatically adjust to the new mods..it plugs it into all 8 injectors and uses a wideband to measure a/f ratio...If if didnt have block off plates installed with this system... would i get an accurate a/f ratio even with the wide band?
No, without the block off plates you will never get a proper a/f reading, because the pair valve injects extra air into the exhaust and skews those readings. Once you remove the pair valve and install the block off plates, that problem goes away.
No, without the block off plates you will never get a proper a/f reading, because the pair valve injects extra air into the exhaust and skews those readings. Once you remove the pair valve and install the block off plates, that problem goes away.
Got it, thanks!
i just want to belatedly chime in and say I have read that the bike will run more lean with the silencer/baffle removed on any slip on and to keep it in. And also Riverszzr above said Ram air bikes cannot get true afr done because most fans dynos have only go to 80mph. Do dyno places have access to 140mph fans lol
I just posted an article on this topic that you may find useful.

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