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Discussion Starter #1
I want to go to a 530 chain instead of the stock 520. Is it possible? Also what can i do to lower my rpms on highway? I would like to to cruise at 80 at 6k instead of 7500rpm. Is it also possible to do that by changing the gearing?
 

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Not sure why you would want to use a 530 chain. Most 1000cc bikes come with a 525 and even they have kits to change them to 520. Please elaborate your thoughts on this.
From the sound of it, it seems like you are trying to turn your cratch racket into a cruiser.

As far as gearing goes, yes you can change the sprockets. Stock is 16/43. You could change the rear to a 42. Anything lower than that and you may need to start taking links out of your chain as this will lengthen your wheelbase. This will also make the bike kind of a dog at lower engine speeds.

If that’s not enough, you can also use a larger rear tire to accomplish what you are trying to do.


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Discussion Starter #3
Not sure why you would want to use a 530 chain. Most 1000cc bikes come with a 525 and even they have kits to change them to 520. Please elaborate your thoughts on this.
From the sound of it, it seems like you are trying to turn your cratch racket into a cruiser.

As far as gearing goes, yes you can change the sprockets. Stock is 16/43. You could change the rear to a 42. Anything lower than that and you may need to start taking links out of your chain as this will lengthen your wheelbase. This will also make the bike kind of a dog at lower engine speeds.

If that’s not enough, you can also use a larger rear tire to accomplish what you are trying to do.


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Haha no i want my power of the 636 i just do a lot of group rides on the highway here in florida and i do ride with a lot of cruisers and crotch rockets as well i just feel 7500rpm at 80mph is kind of high and screammsssss. At 70 in 6000k rpms in 6th it feels comfortable. My buddys nee zx10r cruises at 80 in 4800rpms. 😒 I know i won't get that low but i feel 6k at 80 i won't have it screaming all the time. I have 190 rear tire already. I want 530 becuase its a wider chain and durability is more then the 520 looks skinny and ugly. Even if 530 does not make a difference i like how (meaty) it looks. So change thr rear sprocket minus 1 and that should lower the rpms a bit?
 

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Yes. It will increase your top end speed. It will slightly lower your RPMs while cruising. It will also slow down your acceleration though.

Thats the trade-off.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yes. It will increase your top end speed. It will slightly lower your RPMs while cruising. It will also slow down your acceleration though.

Thats the trade-off.
When you say slow down my acceleration will it be very slow from a dig? Or something i can live with? And you think i might lower my rpm on the highway by going 43 rear and stock front? Just to clarify lol
 

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More than likely you’ll notice the change you’re considering but it won’t be as serious as you think. I rode with a guy few years back that did what you’re suggesting to his Ninja 650 and he still kept up with the rest of us through the twisties.

Do what you want you can always change it back rear sprockets are very easy to change.


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I want to go to a 530 chain instead of the stock 520. Is it possible? Also what can i do to lower my rpms on highway? I would like to to cruise at 80 at 6k instead of 7500rpm. Is it also possible to do that by changing the gearing?
First off, check your sprockets and see if your gearing is stock, just to be sure of where you are starting from. I doubt you will find a set of 530 sprockets to convert it, almost everyone in this world goes the other way with chain conversions.


I know i won't get that low but i feel 6k at 80 i won't have it screaming all the time.
Getting down to 6000rpm from 7500 is a huge change in gearing. The relationship between road speed, gearing and RPM is linear and easy to calculate. If stock gearing is 16/43 and you drop to 16/42 your revs will drop to:

7500 * (42/43) = 7325

I would think that would hardly be noticeable.


To get down to 6000rpm @ 80mph you will need a:

43 * (6000/7500) = 34.4 tooth sprocket (of course, that means picking a 34 or 35 tooth in reality)

This physically won't work because the swingarm will be in the way of the chain run with that small of a sprocket.


If you switch to a 17 tooth front sprocket that will be a larger change (assuming you can fit a 17T front without interference around the countershaft). Combine a 17 front with a 40 tooth rear and your revs will drop to:

7500 * (16/17) * (40/43) = 6566

This is about as far as you could practically go on your bike. This also assumes you can even find a 17 tooth front and 40 tooth rear sprocket for your bike, since those won't be big sellers at all for the aftermarket suppliers.


When you say slow down my acceleration will it be very slow from a dig? Or something i can live with?
Only you can answer the question if you can live with it. You are talking about a 20% gearing change (from 7500 to 6000), which means the engine will have 20% less leverage over the bike in each gear. That means ~20% less acceleration. With tall gearing like you are talking about you will be able to compensate some by running a lower gear when you want hard acceleration, but roll-ons will suck completely unless you drop a couple gears every time.

Personally I wouldn't be willing to give up any acceleration on a 600 because they just don't have that much to begin with. If you were talking about a liter bike then it's less of a problem because they have so much power and torque that giving some up to get smoother cruising isn't a big deal.


Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I want to go to a 530 chain instead of the stock 520. Is it possible? Also what can i do to lower my rpms on highway? I would like to to cruise at 80 at 6k instead of 7500rpm. Is it also possible to do that by changing the gearing?
First off, check your sprockets and see if your gearing is stock, just to be sure of where you are starting from. I doubt you will find a set of 530 sprockets to convert it, almost everyone in this world goes the other way with chain conversions.


I know i won't get that low but i feel 6k at 80 i won't have it screaming all the time.
Getting down to 6000rpm from 7500 is a huge change in gearing. The relationship between road speed, gearing and RPM is linear and easy to calculate. If stock gearing is 16/43 and you drop to 16/42 your revs will drop to:

7500 * (42/43) = 7325

I would think that would hardly be noticeable.


To get down to 6000rpm @ 80mph you will need a:

43 * (6000/7500) = 34.4 tooth sprocket (of course, that means picking a 34 or 35 tooth in reality)

This physically won't work because the swingarm will be in the way of the chain run with that small of a sprocket.


If you switch to a 17 tooth front sprocket that will be a larger change (assuming you can fit a 17T front without interference around the countershaft). Combine a 17 front with a 40 tooth rear and your revs will drop to:

7500 * (16/17) * (40/43) = 6566

This is about as far as you could practically go on your bike. This also assumes you can even find a 17 tooth front and 40 tooth rear sprocket for your bike, since those won't be big sellers at all for the aftermarket suppliers.


When you say slow down my acceleration will it be very slow from a dig? Or something i can live with?
Only you can answer the question if you can live with it. You are talking about a 20% gearing change (from 7500 to 6000), which means the engine will have 20% less leverage over the bike in each gear. That means ~20% less acceleration. With tall gearing like you are talking about you will be able to compensate some by running a lower gear when you want hard acceleration, but roll-ons will suck completely unless you drop a couple gears every time.

Personally I wouldn't be willing to give up any acceleration on a 600 because they just don't have that much to begin with. If you were talking about a liter bike then it's less of a problem because they have so much power and torque that giving some up to get smoother cruising isn't a big deal.


Mark

Oh wow greay explanation man. Yeah i know 6000 was impossible but if i can atleast be at 7000 at 80 i think that is comfortable for me. So what do you recommend i do for 7000 at 80. Something that is possible without sacrifice the acceleration.
 

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OP, if you're concerned about revving a 600...... Buy the liter bike.


This is just about the only semi-legitimate excuse to buy a 1000. In my opinion they are actually much more comfortable to ride because you can scoot around pretty good without reving the piss out of them.


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Discussion Starter #11
OP, if you're concerned about revving a 600...... Buy the liter bike.
I decline. I don't owe my bike and don't have $16k laying around to buy a zx10 or finance a bike when mine does perfectly fine lol. I do rev my bike i'm looking to lower my revs on highway when i just do group rides. When i'm by myself at 8 or 9k i dont care. And i know lowering the rpms is possible. Just need the right advice.
 

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What year is your bike?

you are going to have to remove atleast 3 teeth in the rear to be very noticeable and get anywhere near reducing rpms significantly

As far as finding 530 chain and sprockets, sure it can be done.......... but You are going to have to figure out which older model used a 520 c/s that also fits your output shaft and your rear wheel bolt pattern
You may have to look at something like the ZX9 around the 2000 era....... and even then chain alignment (since many c/s sprockets are slightly offset) could require some fiddling

If your current gearing is 16/43......... maybe something like 16/40 would be enough to make you happy? I would not suggest any more jump than that
 

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Oh wow greay explanation man. Yeah i know 6000 was impossible but if i can atleast be at 7000 at 80 i think that is comfortable for me. So what do you recommend i do for 7000 at 80. Something that is possible without sacrifice the acceleration.
You can't change the final drive ratio without affecting the acceleration, that is just how it works. All you can do is try it and see how you like the result.

Getting to 7000rpm would take:

43 * (7000/7500) = 40.13 teeth

So a 40 tooth rear will get you down to 7000rpm @ 80mph. As noted, the smaller sprocket will require you to move your rear wheel back some to take up the slack in the chain. Depending on where you are on the axle adjusters you may end up having to take a link out of the chain to keep the rear wheel in a reasonable spot on the adjusters.


Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #14
What year is your bike?

you are going to have to remove atleast 3 teeth in the rear to be very noticeable and get anywhere near reducing rpms significantly

As far as finding 530 chain and sprockets, sure it can be done.......... but You are going to have to figure out which older model used a 520 c/s that also fits your output shaft and your rear wheel bolt pattern
You may have to look at something like the ZX9 around the 2000 era....... and even then chain alignment (since many c/s sprockets are slightly offset) could require some fiddling

If your current gearing is 16/43......... maybe something like 16/40 would be enough to make you happy? I would not suggest any more jump than that
I have the 2014 636. Stock gearing. All i want is to lower the rmps a bit on highway. That is my goal so i'll leave thr front stock and do 40 in the rear. If i dont like it i can go back to the stock no biggie.
 

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I have the 2014 636. Stock gearing. All i want is to lower the rmps a bit on highway. That is my goal so i'll leave thr front stock and do 40 in the rear. If i dont like it i can go back to the stock no biggie.
Good odds you are going to need a shorter chain to run a 40T rear vs the longer chain with the 43T rear.
 

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Good odds you are going to need a shorter chain to run a 40T rear vs the longer chain with the 43T rear.


This^
I occasionally run 16/42. My rear axle is about as far back as it will go. Granted that’s with an older, kinda worn out chain.


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Not sure why anyone would want to go from a 520 to a larger setup. Everybody is going the other way and installing the 520's these days, because the current 520's are so strong now that they will do better than the previous 530's. The 520's also save on weight which is a benefit as well.

Anywho, you can go to www.gearingcommander.com to play with all the numbers to see what sprocket combinations will give you what RPM's.
 
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