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DID VX2 Chain - Clip Link Broke

1923 Views 28 Replies 17 Participants Last post by  oldninjadude
Hey guys,
I pulled off my sprocket cover off my front drive and cleaned out all of the grease, gunk and whatever else was lying in there. That's when I found my clip laying in the gunk of grease. I have no idea how long it has been like that. I have only been running a -1 front tooth. Rear is the same.. well for now. It's about to go to a green PMP +2 sprocket in the next week or two.

Anyway. 1/3rd of the link was broken off. Obviously it's not going to do much. I only had about 2-3k miles on the new change. I got it done right at 1000 miles with a smooth break in.

Has anyone else experienced this? DID makes great chains, especially with the VX2. Guess I should have went with the rivet style. Such a pain, because I don't have one.... YET. This might be the time when I need to get a new chain and chain breaker.

I can buy the new clip from anywhere from $4-$11

Or was this just a fluke accident and I should just be able to check my chain from time to time. It appears like it's been like that for a while. I definitely road around with it like this and it hasn't came apart or look like the master-link was going to come apart.

Thanks!
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Put a rivet link on there and keep riding. Should be fine
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+1 on the rivet link.

I know PPL swear up and down on the clip style but I had a DID clip break on me just trying to reconnect the chain for a swingarm swap. After going through 2 brand new clip type links I decided I would use rivet types from now on.

When I was going through all of that I saw a write up someone did on safety wiring the master link after the clip broke off. Some people have balls lol. I actually witnessed a chain break apart while being ridden and slap the shit out of someone I know. Not a pretty sight
Was the clip installed facing the right direction ?

Can you look at the remaining link to see ?

And true rivets are best. But a properly installed clip will be fine on the street. I would recommend adding a dab of RTV silicone to the clip for added protection.
I'd never put a clip link on a 100 hp motorcycle. Not worth the chance.
-Cody
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Precisely why I would NEVER use a clip style master link. If I for some reason had to, I would without a doubt safety wire it as an added precaution.
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I used a clip on to get me to the shot to have a riveted one installed. That is all you should really use a clipon for.
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I've lost two clips in the past 3 years, I'm now using safety wire.
Yep safety wire the master link.
Sounds crazy? maybe but last year alone it worked for 3-4 months & proly 4,000 miles.
Then I put another clip on & it was gone in a month or two.
So I'm back to safety wire. I will be getting a new chain later this year so proly going back to a rivet link.

The reason I used a clip in the first place is the swingarm, You have to cut a rivet link off to remove the swingarm.
I wouldn,t put a split link on a powerfull bike ever even if you paid me.Ok on a 50/ 125cc no worth the risk.:thumbdown:
Put a rivet link on there and keep riding. Should be fine
^^^ This...


ALWAYS throw the clip link in the trash and put a rivet link on there.
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^^^ This...


ALWAYS throw the clip link in the trash and put a rivet link on there.
^^^^^^^^^^^ This :laugh
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really a rivet tool isnt all that expensive.
i just bought one today, me and a buddy split on it. cheaper than paying a shop to rivet the chain on 2 bikes or than loosing the chain while riding.
The rivet press is cheap and its the only way to go. Engine cases can get way to costly to replace if the link clip link comes off.
I appreciate the input guys. I'll make sure to go with a rivet link.

I honestly didn't know it was a clip on link when I bought the chain from my dealership. I just know it was around $150 minus me getting it at cost working there. I had waited for about a month before I ever got the chain on, because I was waiting for a friend to come over to my house with his chain tool. He works at the dealership, but my GM and Service/Parts Manager makes you pay for it, even though it's a quick job.

Anyway, we got it broken apart, put the new chain on and went to go use the tool and noticed it was a clip style link. He told me it was odd and he's never seen one. I didn't think it could be as strong, but I figured, it's a DID chain, which was my only requirement for a chain when I looked through the catalog. Not only was it a DID chain, but it was a VX2 chain and I know it's rather popular.

So lessen learned. Makes me wonder how long I have been riding like that. Definitely one of my biggest fears is to lose a chain and for it to hit me in the back, over rev my bike and blow a near new bike. I know people I've ridden with and they have broken several chains, but then again, they also spend more of their time on one wheel than two, so their chains are rather loose to get that snap/jerk of the front wheel up off the ground.

Any thoughts on the RK green chain? Do they stay green especially after putting chain grease on your chain every 500 miles? Thinking of a new chain since I'm replacing the rear sprocket with a green anodized sprocket, which is the only green sprocket I have ever found. I only have maybe 2k miles on this chain, so I'm just a tad on the outside edge of needing a new chain
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i'm not an RK fan. I had a brand new one that was stiff from the get go. Replaced it with a DID ERV3 and couldn't be happier.
I appreciate the input guys. I'll make sure to go with a rivet link.

I honestly didn't know it was a clip on link when I bought the chain from my dealership. I just know it was around $150 minus me getting it at cost working there. I had waited for about a month before I ever got the chain on, because I was waiting for a friend to come over to my house with his chain tool. He works at the dealership, but my GM and Service/Parts Manager makes you pay for it, even though it's a quick job.

Anyway, we got it broken apart, put the new chain on and went to go use the tool and noticed it was a clip style link. He told me it was odd and he's never seen one. I didn't think it could be as strong, but I figured, it's a DID chain, which was my only requirement for a chain when I looked through the catalog. Not only was it a DID chain, but it was a VX2 chain and I know it's rather popular.

So lessen learned. Makes me wonder how long I have been riding like that. Definitely one of my biggest fears is to lose a chain and for it to hit me in the back, over rev my bike and blow a near new bike. I know people I've ridden with and they have broken several chains, but then again, they also spend more of their time on one wheel than two, so their chains are rather loose to get that snap/jerk of the front wheel up off the ground.

Any thoughts on the RK green chain? Do they stay green especially after putting chain grease on your chain every 500 miles? Thinking of a new chain since I'm replacing the rear sprocket with a green anodized sprocket, which is the only green sprocket I have ever found. I only have maybe 2k miles on this chain, so I'm just a tad on the outside edge of needing a new chain

First off the chain breaking will not over rev the motor it has a rev limiter on it so 16k rpms or so and the computer cuts out the ignition and fuel till the motors stops revving.

The next issue is the chain will not hit you in the back when it breaks the front sprocket will suck it through into the area around it possibly destroying the motor cases around it as it bunches up and either throws it at the ground under or behind the bike. Worst case the broken chain might hit your ankle or leg.
You can check on the DID site to see what type of connecting link comes with their chains and what style is available for it.

D.I.D. Racing Chains & DirtStar® Rims

I'd be suspicious you installed the clip backwards. I don't run clips links on my 600 or my 1200 street bikes but I've run clip links for years on my dirt bikes and not had any issues with them. When looking at the top run of chain, the open end of the clip should be to the rear of the bike.

You also need to get the side plate on far enough that it's not covering any part of the groove in the pins. But not so far on that it binds up the link. On the o-ring clip style links it almost requires a chain press to put it on. If your not having to force it on some of the way, it's not on far enough. If the side plate is not on far enough, the clip is going to pop off sooner or later.

DID EVR3 is by far the best chain you can get for these bikes.
I don't remember how it was put on, but I know the clip link is on the outside of the bike, not facing inwards. Don't remember if the open face was towards the front or the back.


And in regards to the chain not over revving your bike, I beg to differ. If you crank on the throttle 100% and there's nothing stopping your motor, no resistance, then the inertia of the counter balancers, pistons, etc... will keep going at that acceleration motion.

And as far as the chain not hitting your back or shoulders, I've seen it happen.
I don't remember how it was put on, but I know the clip link is on the outside of the bike, not facing inwards. Don't remember if the open face was towards the front or the back.


And in regards to the chain not over revving your bike, I beg to differ. If you crank on the throttle 100% and there's nothing stopping your motor, no resistance, then the inertia of the counter balancers, pistons, etc... will keep going at that acceleration motion.

And as far as the chain not hitting your back or shoulders, I've seen it happen.

You must be special. But I guess its implied as you had a clip type master link installed on the bike.

When the motor red lines the computer tells the ignition to turn off along with the fuel so then the motor stops revving higher as the internal friction of the motor will slow itself down regardless of the throttle input. Its built into to the bikes computer to keep all the retarded squids from over revving the motors. Even if you romp on the throttle through 1st gear from a dead stop I am talking full throttle it will not blow a healthy motor it will cut the ignition and fuel and just bounce off the rev limiter. Or else anyone who has missed a shift or 2 or forgot what gear he was in or the guys who like to sit in parking lots revving there motors bouncing them off the rev limiters would all be searching for new motors.

I've been riding everything from go karts to sport bikes for most of my life I have personally logged almost 100k miles on street bikes and have worked on them for 10yrs and never heard about a chain hitting someone in the back or shoulders the physics of it and the angles just do not add up.
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The reason I used a clip in the first place is the swingarm, You have to cut a rivet link off to remove the swingarm.
I don't break the chain to remove the swingarm. I have had to take both of my swingarms off to get them welded (spool broke off) and I removed them and left the chain connected. I'll be damned if I can find a picture of one of them now but I also just rebuilt my YZ250 and same with it. Replacing bearings here:



Not a good picture either. :) Also, you can always break the chain and put another rivet type master link in to hook it back together. Nothing wrong with having 2 master links in the chain.

EDIT: Aha!

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