It also sometimes pours out while the bike is still running but not as much
There you go :bigthumb:I had the exact same issue. I flushed the whole system with a mixture of white vinegar and distilled water a few times and flushed it with just distilled water to remove the calcium build up in the system. After all that, I decided to change out the thermostat and radiator cap since they were cheap. Once all done my bike did not go past 190 unless at a light. It's been almost 2 years since I changed the coolant and will running nice and cool.
Just an FYI R&B, the boiling point of water is a function of temperature and pressure. If the system is sealed and there is no air in it, then there is no room for expansion and the pressure in the system rises rapidly without the water boiling.Distilled water boils at 210 Degrees. So if its not happening most of the time when the bikes running, that means your bike isn't reaching the 210 point. Which would indicate to me that if its mostly when the bike turns off, your coolant system is acting like it should. My bike runs on average around 200 degrees on a normal temperature day, so with the expected 10 degree bump from the bike that stop moving and fan that turns off, that would easily push it over its boiling point. Water starts to become steam around 250 degrees and your not pushing steam so its definitely not that high where heat at that temp could crack the block.
Sounds like you just need a coolant change. Coolant raises the boiling point and should stop your problem. If it starts to happen again, then there's a leak, somewhere air is getting in, or something else is fault.
Thanks for the informative post!!!! Forgot water acts different under pressure! Thanks!Just an FYI R&B, the boiling point of water is a function of temperature and pressure. If the system is sealed and there is no air in it, then there is no room for expansion and the pressure in the system rises rapidly without the water boiling.
Check out the table in this link:
Pressure and Boiling Points of Water
Of course, there is a point where the temperature will rise faster than the pressure it induces especially when hoses are expanding and effectively retarding the pressure rise, then boiling occurs but this can be well above 210 (your 250 point maybe). If there is air in the system, expansion is allowed to happen and the pressure doesn't rise fast enough to prevent boiling, so it will boil at a much lower temperature.
Adding salts or organics (like glycol) will raise the boiling point further but the system really needs be sealed tight and air free to allow the pressure to build and prevent localized boiling at the hottest point like in the block or head.