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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all, this is my first post and my name is brad. I bought a 2003 zx6r about 3 months ago. I got it home and parked it right away to start maintance on the bike. Put 08 rotors, 08 rear shock, new brakes, new chain and sprockets, new coolant, new brake fluid, and new fork oil in the bike so I felt safe. Plus the previous owner warped the front rotors running steel on steel. Anyways the bike sat up until a week ago and out on the first ride I felt some clutch slip at higher Rpms or when dumping the clutch. So I get home and tighten up the cable a tad bit and go to get back on, bike will not move. Just simply revs out. So I let all the way out and adjust my lever to 1 and get clutch back but still slips under extreme conditions. Guy said he had just changed the oil and it looked really fresh so my though is wrong kind of oil. I'm thinking the friction plated have swelled and that they are probably toast. So I changed the oil just to see if it would help and nada! Btw shell rotella t6, I live and die by this oil!

What's everybody else's opinion on this?
 

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"tightening up" the clutch cable indicates less free play or zero free play........ you do have free play don't you?

But yes- it sounds like you probably need new frictions and steels at this point if it is slipping that bad
 
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Did you adjust the clutch cable or the setting on the lever? When you say you adjusted to 1, I'm guessing you adjusted the lever and not the cable...the lever only adjusts position not cable adjustment
 

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Well it wouldn't hurt to remove the clutch plates to inspect and measure them.
 
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Discussion Starter #6
The bikes got right at 14k and it was just a daily bike completely stock. I adjusted the cable and lever. When I tighten the cable up the bike just revs out. I've been on motorcycles since I could walk so I'm by no means a rookie and no how to adjust a clutch to get that out of the way. What's throwing me is it's let as far out as possible without having any slack in the clutch pull pin and if I try to tighten it at all the slip just gets worse and worse until the bike will no longer move and just rev out. I went ahead and ordered a clutch but I would still like to know what happened as it was fine when I test drove it and rode it home. After sitting it's toast.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Will the wrong oil swell the friction material? There's just no free play when I tighten the cable. At this point I'm just throwing in a dp clutch kit.
 

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I haven't seen frictions swell from the wrong oil being used, but car oil with detergents will cause them to slip.
 

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If you adjusted the cable with no change then your clutch is toast. I would just install new clutch and change oil while your at it.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks guys. Guess I get to tell the wife more money is going in the bike. One more question for you eviltwin. I've been talking to dobek performance about their ejk programmer with full tuning software and pretty much have it worked out. They are building me a custom controller with software for 325$, what is your thoughts on this company and product? Their customer service and straight forward answers have really swayed my vote.
 

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Their theory of "load based tuning" is complete bullshit. It would work on something like a quad or snowmobile that has a cvt; where your throttle and RPM can remain constant while load changes, but for a bike it's too overly simplified. On a bike, if your load changes then either the RPM changes or you adjust the throttle to compensate to the change in load. It basically trying apply carburetor tuning principals to fuel injection. When I was working for Bazzaz I email the Dobek guys, posing as a potential customer, and asked them "challenging" question about how their system accounts for different variables that were handled in a fuel system that mapped based off RPM and Throttle position and they either skirted or ignored every question.
For $325 there are better options.
 
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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks and could you feel me in on the better options? New to the sportbike world but have tuned my own cars for quite some time
 

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Your best option for the 03 is a Power Commander. I never completed the prototype for the first gen 636 while I was at Bazzaz, so they unfortunately don't make a product for that bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Eviltwin, clutch is pulled and it looks absolutely fine and there is no discoloring or wear on the steel plates.. How many friction disk and steel disk are suppose to be in the basket and is there a specific torque rating for the springs? Maybe they were to tight?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Eviltwin, clutch is apart and looks perfectly fine and there's no discoloring from slipping on the steel plates. What could be the problem? Could the springs be to tight?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Btw my friction plates don't have little square friction pads, they have slash style spaces separating each friction block. Is this factory or what?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Problem solved, several plates were going the wrong way and both washers were all the way in the back
 
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Pictures of the plates? They don't sound stock.
 
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