Kawasaki Ninja ZX-6R Forum banner

1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Director of Moderation
Joined
·
10,038 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So shortly after I got my zx6r last year the clutch started slipping pretty bad and I replaced the plates. I know there was a fairly lengthy thread then that I started thinking it was something else. Anyway, I replaced the friction plates with EBC plates. Fast forward about a year and a half almost and now it's starting to slip again. I thought I've heard somewhere that the EBC plates don't last all that long, plus keep in mind that my bike has an STM slipper clutch which slips a lot more than the stock one by design. Super smooth but I know it's harder on the plates.

So does anyone have any experience with other brands? How do the OEM ones stack up? I don't really mind buying a set of plates every 1.5 seasons especially since the EBC's are only like $65 or so at STG. I priced out a set of OEM's at Partzilla and that came out to $85 not including shipping. Any other options? Recommendations?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13,288 Posts
I would expect that the consensus would be OEM are more durable. I know that's what is typically recommended in these sorts of threads....

Still on the OEM plates @ 50K, on my 09. Racing is a different usage, and that slipper is obviously accelerating the wear big time.
 

·
Director of Moderation
Joined
·
10,038 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thing that annoys me is that I just changed the oil before...now I have to dump it again :(
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13,288 Posts
Thing that annoys me is that I just changed the oil before...now I have to dump it again :(
Why? You don't have to dump the oil to change the frictions...... Unless it's highly contaminated with the clutch fiber, I can't imagine why it would be necessary -- and if you do have to remove the oil, put it back when you're done....:O
 

·
Director of Moderation
Joined
·
10,038 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Why? You don't have to dump the oil to change the frictions...... Unless it's highly contaminated with the clutch fiber, I can't imagine why it would be necessary -- and if you do have to remove the oil, put it back when you're done....:O
Because it'll leak all over the place when I open up the clutch cover, unless I lean it over on the left side which I can't really do since I have it on a bike lift. I'll most likely just collect the oil and put it back in when I'm done. That's what I did last year too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,057 Posts
Barnett??? I haven't used them but when my clutch goes out I planned on using them because I hear good things from them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
640 Posts
OEM clutches are the only way to go. I've found Partzilla is cheaper than Ron Ayers.

I bought my R6 as a street bike with 900 miles on it. I sold it with 8,000 miles, and put a new OEM clutch in right before I sold it as it started to slip on hard launches. So 7,000 miles of track and race miles. Not shabby.

Chasing what would eventually be a transmission problem, I changed out the clutch in my ZX6. It had almost 17,000 miles on it.

OEM...only way to go
 

·
Director of Moderation
Joined
·
10,038 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Vesrah makes a lot of the OEM brake pads and clutch fibers. Maybe you can test that ;)

Catalog

Vesrah VC-493 Clutch Disc Set | eBay
Tempting...just for the sake of trying something new. Although sounds like OEM is probably the best option even if it will cost me 20 bucks more. I guess if they last even 50% longer it's worth it. I think I put about 1500 miles at most since I changed the plates last time.
 

·
Director of Moderation
Joined
·
10,038 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Barnett??? I haven't used them but when my clutch goes out I planned on using them because I hear good things from them.
I have too but they're usually a lot more expensive.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,057 Posts
I have too but they're usually a lot more expensive.
Just for the plates?? I always see them as a kit for like $160 it's plates and springs I believe. Is your setup different since it's aftermarket??
 

·
Director of Moderation
Joined
·
10,038 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Just for the plates?? I always see them as a kit for like $160 it's plates and springs I believe. Is your setup different since it's aftermarket??
Right, that's expensive when EBC's are like $65 and OEM's like $85 lol

I don't need the springs, just the plates.
 

·
Director of Moderation
Joined
·
10,038 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
So I finally replaced my friction plates after procrastinating for a few weeks, but to my surprise, all the friction plates were within spec, right in the middle of the range listed in the service manual. A few of them looked somewhat worn out, but as far as thickness goes, they were technically still good.

I won't be able to test out the bike until Saturday when I'm going to the track, but is it possible to have the clutch slipping with plates still in spec for thickness?? Keep in mind, I hadn't changed anything before, all was well for about one and a half seasons and the symptoms I got last time were exactly the same as early last year when I had to replace my plates because they were pretty worn out. I'm a bit concerned that this wasn't the problem maybe, and it will still slip when I get up to 4th-5th gear this weekend.

I did not measure the steel plates since I know last time they were in spec and it takes a lot to wear out steel plates, so I didn't even buy any new ones. There were a couple of them though that had some spots on them of blueish color. Not much, just a few spots ranging from around 5-10 mm. I hadn't seen that before on clutch plates. Is it possible that the surface finish changed and they're way too smooth now causing the clutch to slip a bit?
 

·
Director of Moderation
Joined
·
10,038 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
More likely to be warped..... flatness is critical.
Hmm...didn't check for that. Don't really have a good way to do it anyway.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
531 Posts
I'm not familiar with your slipper clutch set up but worn springs also tend to produce a clutch slipping sensation with the plates still being good.
 

·
Director of Moderation
Joined
·
10,038 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
I'm not familiar with your slipper clutch set up but worn springs also tend to produce a clutch slipping sensation with the plates still being good.
The STM doesn't use the traditional type of springs. It uses 2 "springs" that are basically big Belleville washers with cutouts made in them. Hard to explain.

They are the ones in the upper right corner. The primary is the bigger one on the left and the secondary is the smaller one on the right.



I'm pretty sure they are good since they're so stiff, and the secondary spring I just put in last year. That just controls how much engine braking you have.
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top