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Carb cleaning question with pictures

3398 Views 40 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  oldninjadude
2
Hey all, quick questions...




I took out my carbs because the throttle was being sticky and would stay at high rpms after I give it some gas. The springs and all that are pretty gunked up and I'm sure that plays a role too. In my pictures you can see some gunk in the upper portion and I was wondering how I would go about getting that cleaned. Will I hurt anything by blasting carb cleaner in there? I'm not sure where those crevices lead to and I don't want the dirt getting deeper. What are those two gold things? They probably have dirt in them. Are they torqued to a specific lb? I took off the cover where the float hides and that area is pretty clean. There's no noticible dirt in there. I haven't removed the diaphram section yet.
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^YUK.......... No air filter?

yes those passageways lead deeper into the carbs---that is your main air and pilot air jets--they will tie in to the main fuel and pilot fuel passageway and essentially you could push that shit right into the idle mixture passageway and the float bowls

full disassembly and cleaning is the only way you are going to really clean this mess

Yes you can remove that pilot air jet- just don't get the jets all mixed up, the main fuel will look just like it but be a different size

take notes, read the manual so you know what you are looking for/at...

And don't spray carb cleaner all over the slide diaphragm- they swell and can be a bitch to get back together then
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Air filter yes, no oil on the filter..my biggest concern is removing the needles and then running poorly. Are any of the needles turned to a specific number of turns or torque? And you said those needles up top lead to the float chamber? I'm about to go to town on this bad boy.
You're talking about these slides swelling right?

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There should be a cap that unscrews on top of the needle in most cases on the top of the slide, but some do not. I don't know how yours are set up but your service manual should tell you everything you need to know. There will also be a small clip on the top of the needle when you pull it out that you don't need to worry about removing unless you are needing more/less fuel delivery. Hence, just don't touch the clips because when they go flying off it's a pain in the ass to find them at times. Of course I don't have any experience with I4 carbs, but I can tear down, clean and tune the shit out of a dirt bike carb. These should be relatively the same. When in doubt refer to the service manual. And congratulations, you have officially gotten the dirtiest carb I have ever seen in my life aside from the one on my Echo weed eater I got off of craigslist.
You're talking about these slides swelling right?

The slide itself won't swell- they are fuel proof.... It is the rubber diaphragm attached to the top of them (under the black cover with 2 screws)



Do you have the service manual? download it from the home page~~service manuals section.............it will be helpful, necessary, especially since it sounds like this may be your first time
Holy smokes....your bike ran with all this in your carbs? I am shocked your jets did not all clog up. Man your bike must be hurting.. :crazy

And yes...those golden/bronze screws/jets do have specs/settings. Consult your manual :rtfm:
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Air filter yes, no oil on the filter..my biggest concern is removing the needles and then running poorly. Are any of the needles turned to a specific number of turns or torque? And you said those needles up top lead to the float chamber? I'm about to go to town on this bad boy.
torque spec.........they are brass going into aluminum and only a couple of threads, there is one but you won't be using a torque wrench....snug enough they don't come out but not so tight you strip the slot or break them
(I use red Loctite on pilot air jets, since if those came out it is straight into the engine... and they come with Loctite from the factory)

but you will want to shoot right through all those passageways with carb cleaner and compressed air once you have all the jets removed (the main air jet is fixed....you can see it has no screw head)---go in both directions and you will see the flow out both the idle mixture screw passage (idle mixture screw~~spring~~washer~~o-ring..........make sure you get them all!! very important ) and it will flow out the pilot jet passage and the pilot air jet passage when doing those
when you go through the main fuel jet passage it will come out the main air and the main venture....and same when going in other direction

all the jets once removed should be soaked in a commercial type carb cleaner--but at a minimum pay special attention to the 4 pilot fuel jets---they are super tiny and even the slightest crap restricts enough flow to make a huge drop in quality of running!

I would be replacing the O-rings....and pulling the needle/seat too-so you can clean the "screen" on the backside of the seat and really get stuff clean

This is why I say.............fully disassembled

The only screws you need to worry about a "setting" the idle mixture screws, starts them at 2 1/2 turns out from lightly seated once you have everything cleaned and assembled

These pictures are just for sampling of parts..........

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Awesome. Hey thanks for all the help. I haven't worked on carbs other than lawn mower or weedeater ones so this is new for me. I know some people are "search happy" and want me to dig myself (which I have but I have some specific questions). I have the whole service manual already printed and binded. I'll look at that more when I get home
Coming along great


Im blown away that came off a "running" bike. How does that crap not get sucked into the cylinder???

What is that crap rivers?
^ Nice! looks like you cleaned up 2&3 pretty nicely :bigthumb:
Im blown away that came off a "running" bike. How does that crap not get sucked into the cylinder???

What is that crap rivers?
Oh it went through the engine!

It looks like fine sand- and that is not good..........but the OP should know just by feel what it is
Coming along great

Make sure to pull those pilot air jets in the mouth of the carb too!---you definitely want to clean them without the jets installed and clean the jets separately.
And as you probably have found out by now, organization and laying the parts out makes it much easier....
Id pull the oil pan off now & have a look see. looks like rotted wood from a Termite infestation..

Maybe if thats organic it burned up & went out the exhaust........???
Id pull the oil pan off now & have a look see. looks like rotted wood from a Termite infestation..

Maybe if thats organic it burned up & went out the exhaust........???
with carbs off--rotate til the intake valves are wide open-shine flashlight and look at exhaust wall in cylinder------it'll tell the whole story right there
with carbs off--rotate til the intake valves are wide open-shine flashlight and look at exhaust wall in cylinder------it'll tell the whole story right there
:thumbup:
Ha ha ha with the jokes...

Lol its coming along well. I'll have pics soon.
Ha ha ha with the jokes...

Lol its coming along well. I'll have pics soon.
We're not joking fella, If I found that stuff in my carbs, & I had just rode it???

You haven't said (if you did I missed it) how grity that stuff is, But it looks bad.
Like Id be more worried about my cylinders than the carbs........
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True.

Was cleaning and a few of these bugger's fell out. They look familiar.

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